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reson46

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Everything posted by reson46

  1. reson46
    Chrysler makes nothing with a "Jeep" badge that is worth buying. Willy
  2. reson46
    :smart: Not to be too much of a jerk, but if you actually thought that was a legitimate place to attach your safety chains, do not EVER think about towing anything again until you educate yourself on how to properly tow a trailer. Towing a trailer is not something that should be taken lightly. Trailer towing safety is something that is way too often overlooked. Too many people think that just because they have a hitch they can safely tow a trailer. Here are some things for you to research before attempting to tow a trailer in the future. GAWR GCWR GVWR Tongue weight Weight distributing hitches Anti-sway bars Hitch classes (Class I, II, III, IV, V) Ball mounts Trailer balls Trailer brakes Towing a trailer is something that should be taken seriously and with an awareness of the danger that you place everyone in who is sharing the road with you. Willy
  3. reson46
    I just threw up in my mouth a little bit. :ack: Willy
  4. reson46
    Turning should not be affected at all. A lunch box locker is disengaged unless power is applied to it. Willy
  5. reson46
    I believe you mean track bar instead of sway bar. Willy
  6. reson46
    :agree: A hammer can make enough room to fit a second transfer case. :thumbsup: Willy
  7. reson46
    I don't see how that makes any sense at all. The axle was already modified before you touched it. If that is all they are looking for than it won't pass inspection as is or after you modify it. :hmm: Willy
  8. reson46
    Those were used in Grand Cherokee control arms, I think the WJ. I don't think they were ever used in XJs or MJs. Willy
  9. reson46
    The post man made a delivery Saturday. :D Swapped over the reamed pitman arm from my XJ and reamed the high steer arm. That took way too long. The reamer didn't seem to care for the harder metal of the high steer arm compared to the cast knuckles, plus I think the reamer is getting a little worn. Looking at it now there may actually be room to mount the sway bar bracket between the tie rod and drag link. :hmm: Willy
  10. reson46
    What's going on with this? Is the knuckle welded to the axle tube? Willy
  11. reson46
    Sway bars do nothing going straight down the road. They control body roll in turns. Just hope that you don't have to take any evasive maneuvers with that much lift. :shake: You already have the brackets. Just go to the junk yard and pick up a sway bar and get some disconnects. Willy i love my body roll. :banana: :banana: its fun :banana: :banana: My apologies. I'll do my best not to clutter your thread with any useful advice in the future. :shake: Willy
  12. reson46
    How did you attach it? Is it pretty quick to pull off? I've been contemplating some type of mount that is easy to remove the jack from and incorporates some type of lock. Willy
  13. reson46
    Sway bars do nothing going straight down the road. They control body roll in turns. Just hope that you don't have to take any evasive maneuvers with that much lift. :shake: You already have the brackets. Just go to the junk yard and pick up a sway bar and get some disconnects. Willy
  14. reson46
    The front probably has to be flipped, or passenger drop. I guess you don't need a clocking ring on the front to flip it. It's hard to say how anything will fit without having any of the components on hand. Either way, the 4:1 atlas is much slicker than the other setups. :dunno: But I will feel for a passenger drop 241D (or such) and a usable ford 205 for now. If I can flip my driver's 241D without things getting too weird, that might be the best option. I'll throw the case front onto the tranny and see whenever I get back home. For the 231 I'm pretty sure you don't need a clocking ring to flip it. This appears to confirm that. A couple posts down he also added a hole to make sure the front bearing gets oil. Pretty interesting thread, with an interesting solution for his shifters. I think the 241 shouldn't need a clocking ring either. Willy
  15. reson46
    Nice find. :thumbsup: What's the mascot on the side? A tiger? Willy
  16. reson46
    Must be your local post office. I swear they only know how to hire elementary school dropouts around here. No matter what time of day you go, a trip to the post office wastes a minimum of 45 minutes of your day. Thankfully, with carrier pick up, I rarely have to deal with them anymore. :dunce: Willy
  17. reson46
    Last night I reamed the passenger side knuckle for Chevy TREs and swapped over the driver side knuckle left over from my XJ that was already reamed. I chopped off a few brackets that were in the way and tossed on the tie rod from my XJ to check for clearance issues. Looks like I've got plenty of clearance when turning left. I'm probably going to hit the coil on right turns, but it's just about at the same time that it reaches the steering stop. I was hoping to run the sway bar bracket between the drag link and tie rod. I don't think that's going to happen. I'm contemplating running the brackets under the tie rod. I've seen some do that before, although I never really cared for it. I just don't think there is going to be enough room to get it over the drag link. :hmm: Willy
  18. reson46
    :huh???: You realize what ATF stands for - Automatic Transmission Fluid? It works much better in automatic transmissions. :hmm: Willy
  19. reson46
    Do the JK Rubicons use a 4:1 231? I'm pretty sure the TJ Rubicon used the 241, but I don't have as much experience with the JK Rubicon. I shy away from the 203/205 setup because it isn't low enough, or so I think, again I should do some math. They're both 2:1. The 3:1 gears for the 205 are quite expensive (since they come with a new case), and I'm not sure if the 203 gears are still available. I'll say it again, I'm a little strapped for cash, as I have to budget at least $3K for rims/tires :ack: I'm also not a big fan of the 203/205 doublers. Strong, yes, but with a combined low range of only around 4:1! Not worth it. I ran a 4.3 Atlas in my XJ for years. So far, for a single low range set up, that is what I have been happiest with. I liked it a lot better than the 2.72 of the 231. But, I still ran into situations where I wanted either a lower gear or a higher gear. Willy
  20. reson46
    Got any more pics of your track bar bracket? Did you build it or buy it? Thanks, Willy
  21. reson46
    Boy that doesn't sound cheap. Hopefully you can just borrow one. Nice work as always Willy, I wanna be just like you when I grow up. It wasn't that bad. Found one at Enco for less than $35 with shipping. Why, are you planning on stalking me? If so, you had better find a less conspicuous stakeout ride. :fool: I think I might notice a big red MJ following me. :yes: I am a computer programmer. I work for a company that develops healthcare software for physician's offices. Willy
  22. reson46
    My plan for the track bar is to use Ballistic's offset panhard bracket and shorten the existing TNT track bar. I was hoping to use the rod end that Ballistic designed the bracket for and thread it into the TNT track bar after I cut the bushing end off, but, I couldn't get any reliable information from TNT's website or by calling them to figure out what the inside diameter of the tube is that they use. Last night the track bar came off and I cut the bushing end off at the end so that I could measure the inside diameter. Looks like I got lucky. The ID is 13/16" which from what I can find I should be able to tap to 7/8" 14 tpi for the Ballistic rod end. Now I need to order some parts and see if I can find a 7/8" 14 tpi left hand tap. :yes: Willy
  23. reson46
    Now on to the steering. I started checking clearance for the JB steering bracket I picked up a while back. It's designed for a YJ so I figured there may be some clearance issues with the coil spring...looks like I was right. My current plan is to ream everything for 1 ton TREs which I have left from my XJ and to mount the tie rod over the knuckle. I will most likely put a bend in the drag link to clear the coil spring, but I am also researching offset WJ TREs to see if that may be a better option. :hmm: I already knew I was going to have to relocate the sway bar brackets. I am hoping there will be enough room for them between the drag link and tie rod. Willy
  24. reson46
    Next up are steering upgrades. Yes, upgrading my steering will help with the cooling issues. :yes: Here's how. The current TNT track bar that is supposed to be for 6"+ of lift is actually too long. This has resulted in some contact between the exhaust down pipe and the front driveshaft. :( I've actually got a Borla header and down pipe to replace it with, but I didn't want to install it until I fixed the driveshaft clearance issue. To fix the driveshaft clearance problem, I am planning to shorten the TNT track bar, mount it over the axle, and redo the steering with a crossover high steer arm. After that I'll install the header and redo the rest of the exhaust. Hopefully that will help with cooling and result in some power gains. :D Willy
  25. reson46
    Next on the list was hood vents. It seems like every time I'm at the junk yard I end up coming across a turbo Lebaron and come home with another set of hood vents. Now it was time to finally get around to installing a set. This really won't do anything for cooling at speed, but should help keep the temperatures down on the trail. Willy
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