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Everything posted by reson46
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Are the high steer arms welded to the knuckle? Willy
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The resistors were bad. They were doing more blocking than resisting. I replaced them with some 330 OHM 10 watt resistors from Fry's and the tail lights are working again. Thanks for the help everybody. Willy
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This sounds interesting. Do you have a link to anybody that has done this? Thanks, Willy
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Nice!! :thumbsup: Collector series 58....does that mean there are more in the series? Do they randomly pick one to include with the order? Is it possible to request the Brent MJ magnet with an order? :brows: Willy
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Are you sure you are in Florida? This looks much better than almost everything I've ever seen from that state. :thumbsup: Willy
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Great! I appreciate the help everybody. This should tell me exactly what I need to know to fix it. Willy
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I'm definitely going to try to seal it as best as possible. The tubing that came with these lights offered no protection from the elements. It's no surprise the resistors went bad now that I've opened it up. :roll: A lot of the newer super bright LED arrays used in vehicle lighting are more like 300-700 milliamps, which would put them around 3.5 to 8 watts or more. He didn't mention any of the LEDs being fried. I agree that the resistor could be in a range somewhere around 360 ohms, but was saying the ohms were important in response to his question after finding a .47 ohm resistor at RS. That would definitely not do the job. I don't think any of the LEDs are bad. I didn't specifically check each one, but it still looked like it was putting out as much light as normal. Excuse my ignorance, but is the resistance measured in OHMs? A 250 OHM resistor would provide less resistance and produce a brighter illumination than a 400 OHM resistor? A Google search did return some results for 360 OHM 5 watt resistors. I'll go through them to see what I can find. Thanks, Willy
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Thanks, I'll see if I can find a 10 watt. Are the OHMs important for what I'm doing? Thanks, Willy
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I am no electrical expert and I know there are issues with some LEDs not drawing enough current to make the flashers work. But, I fail to see how that has anything to do with the problem I am having. I am not having problems with my turn signals (red wire). The turn signals and brake lights work fine. It is the tail light function that is no longer working. The tail lights do not use the the turn signal flasher. Jim, Thanks for the numbers. Tomorrow I'll play around with the meter just to verify the resistor is bad. So far I've just checked it with a test light. What do the OHMs measure in all of this? I stopped by RadioShack this afternoon. The only 5 watt resistor they had was .47 OHM. I'm guessing this won't work for what I need? Thanks, Willy
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That is a completely different issue. The flasher works fine. Do you have a wiring diagram? I don't think you understand what you're working with. There is no way one wire can "control" both taillights and stop and turn functions. That's the ground wire. The other wires are the power wires, and THEY are what control the lights. Are you certain that little thingie is a resistor? I have no idea how LEDs work, but I don't see any need for a resistor. Could that be a diode? To ensure that current only flows one way? Yes, the black wire at the plug in controls both the stop/turn and tail functions. Take a look at the second picture. Ground is the white wire. Red is the stop/turn. Brown is the tail. Notice how the red and brown both become the black wire. The resistor limits the amount of power going to the lights only partially illuminating them for the tail lights. When the non-restricted red wire receives current the lights receive full power and fully illuminate. Thanks, that's what I was looking for. Are there any that are better quality or are they all about the same? Thanks, Willy
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Last year I made tail light boxes with a set of S/T/T LED lights. Over the past couple of months I noticed the passenger tail light had gone out and now the driver side is no longer working, but the brake/turn signals still work. Today I got a chance to look into how these things are wired. I found this when I opened up the pseudo protective wrapping in the wiring. You can see at the light plug in it is a two wire hook up. The black wire controls both the tail light and stop/turn functions. Following the wiring from there you can see where the wiring splits for stop/turn (red) and tail (brown with resistor). I've traced that the tail light wiring is good up to the resistor thing. After the resistor - no more power. I'm pretty sure the resistor has gone bad. Here is a close up of the resistor. Can anybody tell from these numbers what I need to replace these with? Also, where would I find some that are a little better quality than what these came with? Thanks, Willy
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These laws are ridiculous, redundant, and do little besides giving moronic politicians something to do besides solving real problems. As well as give them propaganda to spoon feed to their brain dead constituents to show how much they have accomplished. There are already laws for distracted drivers. I have a novel idea, enforce them!!!! :fs1: I have become completely irate when dodging distracted drivers. For some reason these idiots do not have the mental capacity to understand that they are putting everybody else's life in danger with their stupidity. It is amazing what I see - and I hardly even drive anymore. I work from home and during the week I usually don't make more than 3 or 4 trips - all within 5 or 10 miles of home. These trips are during low traffic times. Almost every trip I have to dodge some idiot driver where if I wasn't paying attention they would cause an accident for which they would be at fault. Until driving infractions are taken seriously, this will do nothing but get worse. :wall: Politicians passing more redundant, unenforced laws will do nothing but waste our tax money. Willy
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Is is not even engaging the starter? Is it an automatic? If so, check the NSS. They fail/get dirty regularly. Willy
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:thumbsup: At this point I wouldn't care about the vehicle. I wouldn't want to give them my money for it even if it was still available. But, I would want to do everything legally possible to make sure that was the most painful sale they ever agreed to. :D Willy
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:agree: Talk to a lawyer. If the law is on your side shove that contract up their @$$ and do everything you can to put them out of business. They are counting on apathetic people that don't want to take the time to call them on their BS. Just think of all the people they have or will be screwed over that don't have the resources to fight them. It is definitely worth the time and effort to beat these a$$holes into submission. Willy
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mini beast Project: Stock To Beast!!!
reson46 replied to MiNi Beast's topic in MJ Hardcore Tech: Epic Journeys to Greatness
1. He bought a pile of parts. 2. Started putting parts together. 3. Sold everything. 4. Return to step 1 and repeat. Willy -
I forgot that I don't even know the vehicle model that I am attempting to unload. :smart: Willy
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Obviously needs to look up the definition of mint. I would like to know how he installed an extra gear in that AW4. :fool: Willy
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That is hideous. Feel free to post any Jeep project you may have in the Projects forum. You may use the Pub to show off your minivan. Willy
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Both. Willy
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I thought two in a row was pretty strange too. The port for the rear line seems to be pumping fluid. The combination valve has been replaced. The lack of fluid is before the valve, directly from the side port on the master cylinder. A rebuild kit is next on my list. Any tips on rebuilding these? It is the type with a plastic reservoir. I've never torn into one. Thanks, Willy
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Been there, done that. Willy
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I am in the process of swapping over a WJ master cylinder and brake booster on the '91 MJ. For some reason I am unable to get it to pump fluid to the line for the front brakes - the rear output on the master cylinder. This is the second junk yard master cylinder that has done this. I exchanged the first one - from a '99 WJ -for the current one - from a '00 WJ - thinking maybe that was why it was a crumpled hunk of metal. But, both have had the same issue. When the pedal is pumped it blows out air and occasionally spits out a little fluid even though the reservoir is full. Any ideas why it isn't pumping any fluid? Thanks, Willy
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You must have arrived after the winter of '89/'90. The all time record low for KC of -23 was set that year. Three nights in a row it got down to -20 or below. They cancelled school for those days. I think we went well over a week before temperatures even made it to 0. Willy
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His @$$ has been a little sore the past couple days. It is a Ford 8.8. Willy I thught that was a ford rear end. Love your stuff man. Actually the first time i got on comanche club i read your build on this mj and thats what got me started on comanche club :D very nice truck :thumbsup: Thank you. I am a very inspiring...and modest person. :yes: :thumbsup: Willy
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