reson46

I've been using two late model XJ fans with pretty good success, but I always keep my eye open at the pull a part for something that may add a little extra cooling. I finally found something that looked like it would fit a couple of weeks ago in a '90s era Mazda MPV. Looks like it must have only been included with specific engines/options as there were a couple other MPVs around that didn't have this fan. I bent up some brackets and slightly trimmed the grill and grill support in a few places. Willy

Is the bed in the pop up? Willy

Finally got around to doing something with the front license plate. Since switching to the hawse fairlead there hasn't been a good place to mount it. So far we got away with having it in the window. Some angle iron, shock bushings, thumb screws, and miscellaneous hardware come up with this. Now it is no longer sliding around on the dash. :D Willy

Correct. I use a dash switch to apply a ground to ECU pin 31 as a fail-safe in case either of my electric fans go belly-up. :D I thought you had a SPAL? :hmm: I've got code 22. :( Jumping the wires in the temperature sensor connector didn't turn the fan on. I'm guessing the wiring is bad somewhere along the way. Does anybody know where I can find a wiring diagram for a '91? I'm not looking forward to ripping apart the harness. It all looks so neat and tidy compared to the spaghetti in the '88. :cry: Thanks, Willy

Thanks again! :D Willy

Thanks! This is exactly what I was looking for. :bowdown: I didn't realize you could check the fault codes of the '91s with the key ON/OFF procedure. If I remember correctly from past vehicles the procedure is key ON, key OFF, key ON, count the CHECK ENGINE flashes, pause, count the CHECK ENGINE flashes? Thanks, Willy

Some pics from a couple of weekends ago. Spent the weekend at Evan's Creek as the campground hosts. The weather was great the whole weekend and it made for some incredible views of Mt. Rainier. Friday night at camp. Not a good place to stop. More pics here. Willy

I'm having issues with the auxiliary fan on the '91. At least some of the wiring/controls work because it comes on with the defrost and AC. That leads me to believe that any fuses and relays that control it are good. It does not come on when the engine temperature rises. I seem to remember that it is supposed to come on somewhere around 220 degrees - that doesn't happen. I know on the HOs there are at least two sensors - on the back of the head by the firewall and in the thermostat housing. If the HOs are the same as the Renix, than the sensor on the head is for the temperature gauge? That would leave the sensor in the thermostat housing for the computer to control the fan, air/fuel mix, etc.? I have replaced the sensor in the thermostat housing - same issues. Is this the sensor and associated wiring that I should be focusing on? If so, is there a way to test the sensor to verify that it is working correctly? Is there a way to test the wiring from the sensor? Is there a way to test the computer is working properly once it has received the input from the sensor? Thanks, Willy

Last weekend was spent exploring mines and wheeling the beautiful mountains around Liberty, WA. We ran across a great local guy who gave us a tour of his thousands of feet of mine tunnels. He was incredibly gracious. It was amazing to see his mine and we were very grateful for his hospitality. The entrance to his mine. This is within a couple hundred feet of the highway. Driving by or even standing next to the entrance you would have no idea what is behind the door. One of his sluice boxes. Decaying ore car tracks were found in most of the tunnels. His neighbor was even nice enough to show us what he found the day before. The area is covered in claims - both abandoned and current. We came across this old shaft not far from camp. It is surrounded by scars left behind from hydraulicking. This hillside was littered with depressions that are quite likely caved adits. We also found this hoisting contraption right outside the shaft. I spotted this mine shortly after we hit our first trail. A short hike rewarded us with an interesting find. There was a second, flooded shaft just down the hill. This hill provided quite the challenge. I ended up winching most of the way up. A couple of rigs took the bypass, then we had a flop at the bottom of the hill. Once he was righted a light rain made the bypass almost impassable. This hill ended up claiming a motor mount and a hard top. We were almost to the end of the last trail Sunday when we were greeted with that distinctive D35 sound. No spares, so we had to get creative. I was surprised how far that branch made it. When it decided to give up everything we found was rotten. Then somebody noticed the Hi-Lift. We got him to the end of the trail and were able to bring a trailer for recovery. More pics here. Willy

Nice find! :thumbsup: You got any summer trips planned for the XJ? Willy

Those tube clamps are a great idea! Mind if I ask how much they were? Thanks, Willy

Thanks! :thumbsup:

I think the Exploder pictures are worthy of some explanation. :???: Did you just come across a rolled Exploder on the side of a mountain road? :rotfl2: Willy

I think you've got a different problem than I had. If one of the sections of the master cylinder is running out of fluid you have a leak somewhere. Check all of you lines, connections, proportioning valve, etc. for leaks. The fluid has to be disappearing somewhere. Willy

Nice to see a true 8 lug axle up front. :thumbsup: Willy

:agree: That was my first thought too. All that work for the TJ HO engine and wiring will be thrown out. Willy

I've got that same diagram in one of my manuals. Unfortunately it doesn't show where wires A and H from the gray harness go. Thanks, willy

Does anybody have a wiring diagram that shows all the transmission wiring? I've got a FSM but it is missing a couple of the wires in the gray harness. I need help with these two in the gray harness: * Location A - yellow with a black stripe. The TCU also has a yellow with black stripe wire that my FSM identifies as going to the diagnostic port. Is this one also a diagnostic wire? * Location H - black with a red stripe. My best guess is this goes from the NSS to the ignition to prevent starting in gear. Can anybody verify what these wires are for? Thanks, Willy

Good idea. I've even got a switch that shuts off the power to the TCU that will make this easy. Thanks, Willy

The past few weeks the AW4 in Deb's '88 has not been acting well. It only acts up intermittently. Some days it is fine, others not. Symptoms: * Sticks in a gear and won't up shift * Seems to get confused and can't figure out which gear it wants to be in * Almost seems like the torque converter will unlock and the engine will rev I've never actually experienced a slipping transmission, so it is quite possible that the last symptom is just that and I don't know enough to realize it. Since it doesn't do it all the time, my first thought is that it is something electrical. This is the electrical trouble shooting I have performed: * Replaced the transmission computer * Tested the voltage output of the TPS These are the electrical things I am trying to figure out if they could be causing these issues: * Solenoids * Speed Sensor * Wiring I changed the fluid a couple of weeks ago and everything actually looked really good. The old filter looked great and the magnets only had the expected metallic film. No chunks or burnt fluid. I also adjusted the throttle cable. I swapped this transmission into this MJ about 2 1/2 years ago. I have really never been happy with the way it shifted. It upshifts at 2500 RPM no matter how much you are on the throttle. The torque converter locks up immediately after you hit third gear, causing it to bog down. I thought the most likely cause of this would be a faulty TPS reading, but it checks out fine. Can anybody point me to what may be causing this? Does this sound like an electrical or mechanical problem? Thanks, Willy

The entire system has been flushed...multiple times. Besides the hard lines, the rubber lines are the only thing I haven't replaced yet. May as well. It will be nice when I can go more than a few weeks without working on the brakes. Willy

A while back I finally got this thing working pretty well. Deb and I have been driving it around some short trips for the past several weeks. A couple weekends ago I trust it enough to take it on a nice trip exploring some old mining towns through the mountains. I noticed one of the brake lines leaking at proportioning valve. Last week I tighten the line, bleed the brakes, and everything is working pretty well again. Thursday rolls around and I decide to take it to our club meeting - which means dealing with stop and go traffic. A few miles down the road I start to smell burning brakes. Not necessarily unusual considering we are surrounded by semis and a Toyota with an egg shaped tire - of course it can't be coming from us. A little further along and the smell hasn't gone away. Time to pull over and check things out. I walk around to the front passenger side to find a nice cloud of smoke coming from the brakes. I was able to nurse it back home and grab my other truck to go to the meeting. I pulled both front tires and the brakes are definitely dragging. I have replaced the master cylinder, pads, and calipers. Why are the calipers not releasing? My best guess is I have heard of the inside of brake lines corroding and acting like a one way valve. I guess that is possible, but the brake lines are in good shape without any soft spots. Anybody else have any ideas? Thanks, Willy

Saturday was a beautiful day for wheeling. This trip was to Evan's Creek. This is the first time we had been there that you could actually see Mt. Rainier. It has been cloudy every other time. Besides a few transmission problems we had a great day. On the way. More pics here. Willy

Nice. :thumbsup: Are you happy with the bump steer? Is painting the steering on the list? Willy

You may want to reconsider. The internals of the NSS are plastic. I don't think you'd be left with anything usable if you heat it up. Willy