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reson46

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Everything posted by reson46

  1. Count me in on at least a couple shirts, but I'm a little confused about the hoodies. The above description gives a slight impression that only the light hoodie is full zip. But, the example pictures show full zippers on both the light and heavy hoodies. Are both hoodies full zip? Why is the heavy hoodie actually cheaper than the light hoodie? Thanks for putting this together. I know that coordinating this is a lot of work. Willy
  2. Went wheeling in the Naches area again this weekend. We also moved a lot of rock for some trail repair. The wife didn't come so there aren't many pictures. Sunday was again cut short, this time by an ER visit. After many delays our buddy was finally able to go camping in his camper. Saturday night he ran the furnace in his 40 year old camper. Apparently it needs some work as he ended up with carbon monoxide poisoning. Luckily it didn't get too severe and a few hours on oxygen at the hospital cleared him up. He will be adding an carbon monoxide and LP detector before his next camping trip. :thumbsup: The only pic I took of the MJ, at Chinook Pass. The rest of the pics are here. Willy
  3. We had a couple new WOHVA banners made. Willy
  4. PhotoBucket. I've been using them for years. Besides the obnoxious auto play ads when uploading I've got no complaints. Willy
  5. No, there isn't enough room for the tie rod to clear the coil springs in that location. Willy
  6. Some final measurements on the axle. WMS to WMS ended up at 62 3/4". If I remember correctly the overall width from the outside of each tire ended up about 1/2" wider than the D30. I'll have to measure again to verify. Previously the width was 74 1/4" with the 35"x12.5" R15s mounted on 15"x8" rims with 3.75" of backspacing. The current set up uses the same tires mounted on 15"x7" rims with 4" of backspacing and the beadlocks adding 3/4" of width to each wheel. This makes me about 1/2" narrower on each side just in the rims. If I would have used rims with the same backspacing, width, and no beadlocks I would have ended up 1" wider. Willy
  7. I narrowed it to use TJ Rubicon D44 inner shafts, not JK. '72 - '76 Chevy D44 knuckles are the only commonly (somewhat) available knuckles that can be machined to accept high steer arms. I wanted to end up with a 5 x 5.5" bolt pattern so that required the use of the Ford hubs and rotors. Exactly. The T&T truss even makes it incredibly easy to locate the lower control arm mounts. There are two notches on each end of the truss that are used for aligning the lower control arm mounts. Willy
  8. Finally got back out on the trail! The axle worked great, we had beautiful weather, and I remembered to engage the hubs. :jump: Saturday we ran Naches Pass both directions. Had to test the locker. :D Sunday we just barely started the Kaner trail when we had a major steering problem. :hmm: We were able to find a bolt good enough to get him off the trail. Then we were lucky enough to find an open Ace that had the correct bolt to get him home. More pics here. Willy
  9. A nuisance I'll be happy to live with. :banana: So far it has at least held together long enough to get it on the trailer. :yes: Willy
  10. I ended up with Ten Factory.....and they arrived today. :banana: Willy
  11. Had the driveshaft shortened. Started installing the axle. Shafts should be here today, but while waiting I at least wanted to get it on the ground and drive around a little. Brakes and hubs installed. Drove it around last night and put in some fresh gas. Hopefully I'll get the shafts in tonight to get ready to go wheeling this weekend. :clapping: Willy
  12. Installed the high steer arm. Track bar and drag link are close to the same angle, but it looks like I may want to look into a drop Wagoneer pitman arm eventually. Made sway bar mounts. I had to get creative on the passenger side. Shock mounts. Added a gusset to the passenger sway bar mount. Top half painted. Willy
  13. Do you have an extra $1K to donate to the project? :thwak: They've always been made by RCV, to Longfield's design. Willy
  14. New ball joints. I needed to get some measurements with the tires on the ground, so I mounted enough stuff to get it off the jack stands. Knuckle and spindle. Caliper bracket. Rotor and hub assembly. Enlarged the track bar hole, mounted the track bar and tie rod. Looks like my old tie rod should work. The truss added 1" of height. Luckily I had some 3/4" spacers that I could use in place of the 1 3/4" spacers I was using. This got me back to the same height as with the D30. Looks like I need to have the driveshaft shortened 1 3/8" too. Next up are sway bar and shock mounts. Willy
  15. It completely depends upon how much experience somebody has with this type of project. Not only does it require a competent welder, but an understanding of suspension dynamics. This is definitely not a project for somebody who has only bolted on parts to their vehicle. Willy
  16. Started Sunday off at the White Knuckle 4x4 swap meet. Found the outer shafts that I was looking for. D30 removed for the last time and D44 loosely in place. Looks like my track bar is pretty much the right length. I've got a few holes I need to enlarge. Even though I'm using TNT control arms, the upper control arm mounts on the truss actually use a larger bolt than the control arms. I think I'll need to invest in some larger drill bits to open up the track bar bracket. Willy
  17. Had the passenger steering knuckle machined and tapped for high steer arms. Finished mounting the beadlock rings and seating the beads. Installed the Spidertrax conversion spacers on the rear. Installed the rear tires and wheels. Willy
  18. A big thanks to my friend Shawn who let me use his tire changer last night. Swapped the tires over to the new rims. He also let me use his press to install the new wheel studs. :yes: Willy
  19. I've got his u-joints and beadlocks, but he only carries Toyota axles. :( Willy
  20. Have you had a chance to open it up and see what happened? Willy Ya, it was the planetary. Ordered new and will put it back together. Are you going to continue to run the Tera low case, or sell it? :hmm: I hope you took pictures. Documentation of carnage is always welcome. :popcorn: Willy I have yet to decide what I'm gonna do. I will fix and either sale and buy Atlas, or put back in, or add a 231 double kit to it, or ..... I'll take a picture, not much to see, just a couple of the welds broke on planetary case that holds on gears. Doesn't look bad. Sell it and go with an Atlas. You'll like it much better and it will be cheaper in the long run...unless you like replacing the planetaries every wheeling trip. :no: Willy
  21. Have you had a chance to open it up and see what happened? Willy Ya, it was the planetary. Ordered new and will put it back together. Are you going to continue to run the Tera low case, or sell it? :hmm: I hope you took pictures. Documentation of carnage is always welcome. :popcorn: Willy
  22. Gears and locker installed. Trying to figure out which shafts to go with. There are so many options and companies I'm having trouble sorting through all the choices. :wall: Willy
  23. Have you had a chance to open it up and see what happened? Willy
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