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onlyinajeep726

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    2001

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Everything posted by onlyinajeep726

  1. onlyinajeep726
    I've been thinking that perhaps an easier way to correct the Renix vs. HO backwards gauge issue is to make an overlay to stick on the face of the gas gauge that has the "E" and "F" swapped. Something to get used to, but it could work. However, the low fuel light would be a different issue.
  2. onlyinajeep726
    I found it at 4wheelparts.com. It's called a Fuel Check Valve Seal, Part # CRO52018823. They were $3.99 each, plus tax and S&H. Cost all of $11. Got a 5% off coupon code from RetailMeNot.com
  3. onlyinajeep726
    Who isn't these days? lol Especially anyone owns and older Jeep haha.
  4. onlyinajeep726
    :agree: I put ZJ rears on my XJ and haven't been happier. Makes a world of difference in braking, BUT I also have the '95-'96 dual diaphragm booster and MC installed. Haven't swapped the guts of the prop. valve yet. When I get a chance, I'm going to do this upgrade to my MJ. You can't go wrong with this and it's 20x easier to work on discs than drums.
  5. onlyinajeep726
    I verified that I had it in correctly by peeping through the check valve holes on top of the tank. However, the problem I had initially was getting the lock ring to grab since the whole assembly didn't want to sit flush with the side of the tank. I had to remove the whole thing and adjust the height of the pump since the sock was bottoming out too quickly. Had to stick my hand in the tank to pull out the return line grommet that was stuck in the flange. But, I got it back in so as soon as my check valve grommets get here tomorrow, I will get my tank reinstalled and some gas pumped in to see if my issue is corrected. :crossfingers: And I quoted you in my sig, lol.
  6. onlyinajeep726
    PM coming your way! :thumbsup:
  7. onlyinajeep726
    All the AMC/Jeep 2.5L valve covers will fit one another regardless of the year. The Dakota used the AMC 2.5L (not to be confused with the 2.5L Chrysler K-series engine that was used also). But, keep in mind that if you're going from the plastic VC to the aluminum one, you need to use the longer bolts that are found with the aluminum VC otherwise you won't be able to bolt it down. I found that out that hard way, but luckily I held on to them from the junkyard.
  8. onlyinajeep726
    I think the door question gets asked at least once a day, everyday... Someone please sticky this if it isn't already lol.
  9. onlyinajeep726
    Think I may have solved my own conundrum. Read... http://comancheclub.com/topic/39042-could-this-be-my-issue/?p=393332
  10. onlyinajeep726
    Good news guys (I think). So, I tested the old fuel pump with a 12 VDC power supply in a bucket of water and some hose. I turned on the pump, kinked the hose about four times (to build pressure) and the fuel pump went crazy with the shakes for a while, then finally cut off when it got up to "primed" pressure. Well, after I unkinked the hose to lower the pressure (which it should come back on to keep supplying fuel), it didn't turn back on. Only when I cut power and reapplied it did the pump come back on! This explains why when I would restarted the MJ, it would "work" for a while until it started going crazy again. So... hopefully this new Bosch unit is the pot of gold I've been looking for! :crossfingers: :wavey: :banana: :clapping: :rock on: :wrench: :group beer: :jump: :driving:
  11. onlyinajeep726
    I did the top ones already, but need to check the bottom ones.
  12. onlyinajeep726
    Good to know! Thanks!
  13. onlyinajeep726
    Thanks for the tips. I will definitely pay close attention to all of what you just mentioned. As I wait for the pump and strainer to arrive, I'm taking this time to paint the outside of the tank to keep it from rusting further. The inside has been cleaned by sloshing Purple Power around in it, then vacuumed out with a shop vac. I'm going to replace the vacuum lines going to each of those check valves while I have the tank down. Figure I might as well take care of as much as I can so I don't have to touch it for a long time (hopefully).
  14. onlyinajeep726
    Sounds like a ground issue to me... No relay controls those, especially one for all of those. Faulty grounds sounds like the culprit.
  15. onlyinajeep726
    Yea, that thing is clean and looks to be very well maintained. Not some slack-jawed hobo trying to sell his junk for a ridiculous price.
  16. onlyinajeep726
    Why? Why did they do that? lol Just because you can, doesn't mean you should.
  17. onlyinajeep726
    Forgive me if I'm wrong, but I don't think coolant is necessarily pushed into the overflow bottle after the system gets to operating temperature. I believe the overflow bottle is there for when the system gets too hot (boil over), it will go there instead of all over the place. It doubles also as a reserve tank in the event that the overall system has lost coolant (either by leak or not enough poured in). That's at least my understanding of it based on my observations on my Cherokee.
  18. onlyinajeep726
    Ok, so tonight, after doing some thorough research, I have found out that other guys across the interwebz have had a similar problem with there 2.5L TBI MJ's (this one for instance: http://www.justanswer.com/car/0o7nh-1986-jeep-comanche-pickup-2-5-4-cyl.html), and I ordered a new Bosch turbine fuel pump and new Bosch strainer/sock. Got it all from RockAuto.com and got a 5% discount code from RetailMeNot.com. In total, I paid just shy of $78. Woot! I really hope this solves my issue. Wish me luck guys and gals!
  19. onlyinajeep726
    Good thinking lol. I should've thought of that. :doh: Thank you for pointing that out. :cheers:
  20. onlyinajeep726
    This is my latest one...
  21. onlyinajeep726
    That's what I would think too. But they look to be the same size which is why I wanted to know for certain.
  22. onlyinajeep726
    I *think* I tried the O2 unplug trick, but I'm not positive. I will try it again and see if that does anything. I still want to know if the fuel supply and return lines appear to be hooked up correctly lol. If anyone would be willing to crawl under their MJ's and snap a picture, I'd be forever grateful. :bowdown:
  23. onlyinajeep726
    Ok, gotcha. Well, I was really hoping that was going to solve the issue I'm having as stated above. No such luck, I see. On another note, is this the correct way to hook up the lines coming from the fuel pump? This is a picture from before I dropped the tank. I'm just wondering if they are hooked up correctly. I assume it's correct since the truck was running and I can't imagine the engine would work if the fuel was trying to go into the throttle body through the return line...
  24. onlyinajeep726
    A while back, I posted a thread asking y'all for help diagnosing my '86 MJ 2.5L TBI. It runs funky sometimes, works fine at other times. I could be driving along, doing fine, and then all of a sudden, it would act like it wasn't wanting to take the gas and would just bog down and die. Anyway, I still haven't diagnosed it. Thought maybe fuel pump was dying, but I dropped the tank and pulled the pump, and it has been replaced. There wasn't a ton of sediment in the bottom of the tank, but the old sock and some kind of rubber grommet was sloshing around in the bottom, leading me to believe the pump is not the one the the Jeep left the factory with. Anyway, the problem is the vacuum lines on the top of the tank. They weren't securely seated, and I'm not sure how important those line are to making the engine run right. Anyone here know? Are these grommets still available at some parts store so I can replace them? Also, a side note, I found out that I have a 27.5 gallon tank. Edit: That "27.5" is not in reference to capacity... Once I cleaned the outside of the tank with Purple Power, I was able to read the stamped plate that states it's a 16 gal tank. I should have known that 27.5 was a little much lol.
  25. onlyinajeep726
    Pretty sure they are D44a's, which means the pumpkin is aluminum like on the V8 ZJs. That would make them an undesired axle for any kind of swap.
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