onlyinajeep726

Connect the two Orange w/ black strip wires together and call it a day.

Is that due to the Inline design, or could a V-engine do that as well?

How does it even run like that? I don't have the most comprehensive knowledge on how the internals of an engine work, but that seems like it would be unable to run like that since it controls when the engine inhales and exhales...

I'm going to eliminate my C101 and perhaps to the ECM swap. I want to squeeze as much power out of the HO stroker as I can get.

Yea, I was being dumb this morning and my search terms weren't yielding what I was looking for. I've since found more... But the RC one is the most cost friendly.

Alright, well let us all know what happens.

The link didn't take me directly to what you had intended (said session had timed out :dunno: ). Anyway, I did go through the menus and found the upgrade kit that I'm guessing you were linking to for $949.05.

I'm thinking really hard about upgrading the front half of my XJ with long arms. I usually avoid RC stuff like the plague, but in searching for just a long arm upgrade kit, RC's 4-6in LA kit (#689u) is the only one I've been able to find. Looks like it is quality, but I want to hear from people who have actually used it and what you all think. If there are other kits out there, feel free to post links.

So what you're saying is that I can use a ECU from an '89-'90 in my '88 and it should give a little better power? Same for an '89-'90 model TCM?

So I was browsing the NC4x4 page on facebook and came across an ad for a lifted Comanche with a true frame. Got to reading more and the owner states that the MJ chassis is mated to a K5 frame. Not sure how I feel about it. One things for sure, I don't like that big Chevy bowtie logo on the back windshield lol. Anyone here perhaps?

Yes, it will work but as stated, the TJ one is MPFI. Swap the intake and accessories and you'll be good to go. As for transfercase, 242 all day over the 228.

Overall, not really. I have everything photographed in my build thread and what I don't have posted, I have in my photobucket. It's tedious, but not hard IMO. But I will say this much, if you or anyone reading plans to a do a swap like this, regardless if it's an '86 or not, a donor XJ/MJ will be a very good thing to have. That's what persuaded me to do the swap on mine.

A 4.0 swap isn't that bad, but it does take some time.

What year is the one in question?

I'll take a 2.5 over a 2.8 any day.

Yes, they require inspections. They did away with the window stickers to "save" money. You get an E-sticker which is nothing more than a racket to continue charging the same price. All vehicles from '95 and older cost $13.90 for an inspection, '96 and newer costs $30. It's a bunch of malarkey too. Just a couple years ago, they started linking it to your registration so you have to get it inspected before you can renew your registration, otherwise you pay a penalty and risk having your car impounded.

I'd consider an engine swap before I started with bigger tires on a 2.8 equipped MJ. A 3.4 would be a good upgrade in both power and reliability. Then pushing 33's wouldn't be so bad. But, that's just my suggestion.

It should, just pay close attention to how the motor mounts are bolted to the engine and also the accessory mounting points. I know that TJ blocks will not directly interchange between XJ/MJ/ZJ.

Well, N. Carolina requires inspection and you can't renew your registration if it hasn't been inspected, but our southern half does not. NC is a greedy state. They're proposing a VMT now (vehicle mileage tax) in addition to the 3rd highest gas tax in the country. But I digress...

If you're lucky enough to find an AX15 from a Dakota, you can use a clutch kit designed for it and a Jeep 231/242 will bolt to it (if you find a 4WD version, obviously). Otherwise I just discovered this: http://www.naxja.org/forum/showpost.php?p=245778235&postcount=17 May be of some help.

Or you can block it off on the intake side and get rid of that system. When I did the newer long block on my XJ, I just removed that system and the Jeep still runs with the Renix controls.

Add Virginia to the list of states I won't live in... I actually had a random cop here tell me he thought an XJ without doors is awesome and proceeded to ask me how I did it.

You can, but it's hard as crap to find the stock bypass pulley assembly for the Renix models. I've heard you can buy a Dorman one, but it's got a plastic pulley. I lucked out at the junkyard last year and found a stock bypass from a '94 HO. I grabbed it and the whole bracket assembly that bolts to the block. My fear with running the compressor like that is the chances of it locking up at the most inopportune moment.

Yea... forgo the wire nuts... First few times you twist/untwist them and your wire ends will break. Two prong disconnects can be easily and cheaply had from RadioShack or the like. I would use this: 2-conductor connector. Here's what you're referring to, but they're hella expensive: Jeep Cherokee Component Speaker Kick Panel