LoTGoD

Excellent post Eagle! Thanks for clearing that up! Ok...now back to the original thread... How do I go about replacing the fuse panel?

Ok, so now you guys have me confused. Eagle stated in one of the fuse panel threads that he has changed his clutch master fluid over to DOT-5. Did I read that completely wrong? See here --> viewtopic.php?f=2&t=12594

Of course this has to happen right when winter rears its ugly head here in NE Ohio.... I was having intermittent heater, turn signal, and horn issues since I picked the MJ up in July. Of course I didn't need the heater at all until the month or so. I figured the blinkers out...bad fuse. The horn still doesn't work. Saturday morning I was on my way to get some delicious Dunkin Donuts coffee, when the whole cab suddenly smelled like burnt clutch or hot brakes. I pulled it off the side of the road and found the 25A fuse for the blower motor was fried inside the fuse panel. I pulled it out, and everything was still running ok. So after all that, and searching on here, I check the master cylinder, and sure enough, its leaking. I pulled the 2 screws off on Saturday night, and used some non-chlorinated brake parts cleaner to soak the whole fuse panel down. I let it all dry, and installed a new fuse in the blower slot. About 3 minutes in to the 5 minute drive home, I smelled the same burnt electrical smell that I did earlier in the afternoon. That's where I am now. I am going to replace the master cylinder, and use DOT-5 fluid in it after the change. The fuse panel is what is confusing me. I see all you guys talking about replacing it, but how are you doing it? Cutting each wire one at a time, and soldering it to a new panel? Removing each wire from the internal clips and pusing it in to a new panel? I am fairly handy at soldering, but the angle under the dash and fat butt don't mix too well. I was hoping there was something I was missing, so any help would be appreciated.

If you want to buy new, you can get some cut to fit XJ weatherstip from 4WD... part# 55235636. (it isn't online) We don't stock it, so it will be special order. Looks like the cost is around $20.

I just paid $1.96 last night....

What about on the boards? I've seen a lot of guys getting rid of them cheap because they upgraded to MasterCraft or Corbeau seats. FYI - Corbeau states they have replacement brackets that will bolt DIRECTLY in to an MJ to run their seats... I don't doubt it, but I'd have to see them first. goblazers_6 - I'd like to see some pics of that guys setup if that is possible. I have access to a bunch of TJ seats, and if it is easier than the 98 XJ seats I have, I will go that route....

Thanks guys...but those are for the 96-older XJ buckets. I have the newer 98 bucket seats...which are completely different than the old style. The base on mine is way too wide to mount up the seats. I have 94 XJ seats in mine right now, but the 98's are much more comfortable.

Looks like it is in/near Cleveland with the I-480 sign on the ground....

Has anyone done this swap? I'm having a hard time figuring out how to mount the 98 XJ seats to the MJ brackets. I'd like to see some pics if you have them....anything to steer me in the right direction. I have access to a welder and materials, but I need some engineering know-how up front before I butcher this! Sow me what ya got! Pics, write-up, drawings on a napkin?

Brent, Let me do the test. I have a dealer right down the street from me, but they don't usually like to deal with older parts for some reason, so I may hit you up if I need to buy one. Thanks for looking in to it for me.

Should I replace it? If so, where the heck can I get one?

My 90 seems to be suffering the same thing as described above. The first thing I did was remove the vacuum lines from the 2 port output of the EGR solenoid. This seemed to kick the idle back up. I have been running it for 2 days with that vacuum line off, and there have been no instances of it almost dying when pushing the clutch in at a stop. Could I have a bad ERG solenoid? Vacuum routing issues? I'll need to check everything in the vacuum system to rule that out. What if it is a bad solenoid? I can't seem to find one online at any of the major websites...dealer only?

How much are you looking to spend? We just put 2 T-Max winches on closeout at 4WD.com http://www.4wd.com/subcategories.aspx?cid=1008&jeep-sid=1066

I'm curious about the center console. I have one out of a 98 that I'd like to put in my MJ, but I can't seem to get anything to line up. Did you make a bracket for the rear mount points on the tranny tunnel? How did you get it to line up in the front near the shifter bracket?

I don't see that you are banned on JU.

All of the interwebs stops at me!!!! I meant Jeep related sites. Jeepsunlimited.com 4WD.com Northeastcralwers.com

Other than here, Pirate, and one other site, I am the Admin for most of them, so its hard to Ban yourself :brows:

PA vehicles have to have the tires covered by fender flares to be street legal. Ohio is lawless, so we get to run with no flares or fenders if we want!!!

I'm running 8.04 Hardy Heron on my Gateway laptop at home. The latest release is much better than Ubuntu 7. It took me about an hour to get it configured and running with WiFi using WPA-PSK. I'm dual booting with XP still, for those times when I need XP. Overall, I love it. I'm also messing with Ubuntu Server on a test box here at work. I put LAMP on it, and configured a bunch of server stuff to mimic my production web site.

Do I need to tear the whole dash apart to do that? I guess I should search more... http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Ele ... _Motor.htm Anyone know where I can get a repleacement seal? I'll try some silicone in there for now and see what that does. I'll probably coat the entire blower motor with a ring of silicone just to be safe.

Dirty, Call Solid and ask to talk to Matt Martin. He is the engineer there that designed all of their products. He will help you out. If you look at the picture and description, it says it is for a rear. Phone No.: 1-888.290.AXLE

I can see where the leak is coming from, as it is right above where the silicone is in the first picture, so it must be the seal?

Do I need to tear the whole dash apart to do that?

Last good trip to the Outer Banks. I had a chance to be there right now, but I couldn't get off of work. Me on the left. We caught 2 decent dolphin, 2 decent yellowfin tuna, and one king mackerel. Good time, but not productive enough for the $400 it cost each of us.

I've fixed 2 other leaks (rear window and drivers door vent window), and now I have one final one that I can't seem to get sealed up. The leak is coming under the passenger side dash area. Looks to be where the heater comes through the big round hole in the firewall. I've put silicone on both sides, but I think the foam is getting saturated and allowing the water to move through. Any thoughts on fixing this? Here are some pics. Looking up under the dash. Seems you can see where the foam seal is leaking through. I though some silicone would stop it here. Filled it in under the hood as well, but its still leaking. Is it possibly coming in there? I see a small crack in the weld of the body, probably from the former owner and the wreck I assume it was in since the nose and pass fender don't match. Any suggestions here? I'm not opposed to tearing the dash apart to get to this problem. I'm not about to put my new carpet in before I get every last leak fixed. Should I dump more silicone in it? Can I get a replacement seal? I'm up for anything at this point. Thanks!