LoTGoD

Well...its been a long night. First, I verified that I did install the Renix flywheel, as the other one that I have in the garage is notched 120° as per Hornbrod's description. Next, I tested the CPS per the instructions. My multimeter must have been acting up, because I got no reading, even from the new one. I figured I might as well install the new one. Took about 30 minutes and 3 feet of extensions, and I got it in. Still no spark. Tested the coil by taking to a buddy's MJ and installing it. His MJ fired right up. Looks like the wiring harness swap is going to be the culprit. The plan is to tear the harness back out and make sure I didn't miss any connections. Anyone have any other ideas?

I'm putting this front end on my MJ...

Just order as much as you like! http://www.kanolabs.com/

Just bought it tonight...not gonna play it too much...I gotta work in the AM. :cheers:

:bowdown: I have 00 XJ doors that are going on in the spring. Your write-up will be mucho appreciated.

I'd come up for this if my truck was running and broken in...its only an 8 hour drive :D http://maps.google.com/maps?f=d&source= ... 7&t=h&z=12

I traced the black wire to a cluster of ground wires, so I am assuming I put power to it and caused a short, which melted some coating on the wires. There is still flow through the wire, as verified with a test light on the positive terminal of that battery. My next assumption is that I have a bad CPS, or a bad CPS connection. After searching much on "no spark" it appears a bad CPS could cause this. Would having installed the incorrect flywheel still allow the CPS to send signal for spark? My assumptions on this is that even with the wrong flywheel, the CPS will still send a signal, albeit the wrong one? Plan for tomorrow is to clean CPS connection with contact cleaner, and retry. If that fails, I'll try this bit that I found on JU: Does this make sense to those that have had this issue? All starter solenoid issues have been resolved.

After messing around with it for the last 3 hours, I still have no spark. Can anyone tell me which of the 4 wires that run to the coil provide power? I have 12v to one yellow wire, but I am assuming that once the ignition is triggered, there should be another wire that sends juice to the coil? I'm pretty sure I have all 4 wires plugged in to the starter solenoid correctly now. Man....after all this work, it sure is frustrating not hearing the old heap run. :headpop: :headpop:

I've checked the online manuals that I found, but can't quite make sense of it. It figures this was the one thing that I can't remember when I went to hook the wiring harness back up. 90 MJ 4.0L Renix Getting fuel to the rail Getting ~9.6 volts to the dizzy It appears the coil pack is not sending out power to the dizzy, as no spark on cranking it over I have all ring terminal wires hooked up to the center post of the solenoid I have a group of 3 wires (black with white stripe, orage, and green) with single connectors that I assume go to the solenoid Also have a single green wire with single connector from another group of wires. Per my pic, there are 4 single connectors on the solenoid. I know they were hooked up wrong, as the black wire with the white stripe started smoking VERY badly when I hit the ignition. If you can tell me what that wire is, and where it goes, I'll trace it out and replace it from my bad harness. If you could tell me where they are connected on your Renix motor, I would sincerely appreciate it. Bonus points if you can tell me what each wire is. I'm going to look at the 88electrical manual that Genovast posted, again, and see if I can find it in there. Thanks again! Aaron

Ahhh...you are right. My tubes were a bit out of square with the housing, so with the use of a jig, they were heated first, aligned, and then welded. I'm very happy with how they came out.

Why not pre-heat the tubes first? I had mine done and was told that he had to preheat the tubes and housing before welding them, and then he did wrap it to allow it to cool slowly.

Bed is back on :D

Which bracket did you use? The one that came with my 97+ console is plastic, so I don't know how well it will "bend" :dunno:

Not getting hung up at all now. I think it was getting hung up before I disconnected it and sent it to you :D In all reality, I'm betting the cable being connected was keeping it from extending the entire way when the key was inserted. I'm going to : 1.) Remove the steering wheel and fix the problem completely 2.) Use a zip-tie and keep it in check. I'm ready to drive the heep, so it is going to get fixed this weekend, one way or another.

Good luck with that.

Jim, Does it move around much? Cause a bunch of noise? I can live with it if it isn't too bad. The plastic composition of the newer XJ's is much quieter than the hard stuff our MJ's are made of. I have some new seats going in, so I may try it like that for now and see what I can do later if it is an issue.

I've asked in a few build threads, but now it is getting to be the time to install it. What are you folks doing to install these? The front part of the console will bolt down to the MJ slots, so I have that covered. What about the rear? How are you keeping it from moving around? I have the bracket that was in the XJ that this console came out of, but the tranny hump is higher in the MJ than in the XJ, causing the console to not mount flush to the floor. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Aaron

So now that I sent that cable to Akula (did you get it??? you never said anything to me) I'm having trouble taking the key out when I turn the ignition back. Is there anything I can do besides taking the steering column apart and removing this part?

Working on something with Brad Kilby right now! This will be for pre-91 MJ's without AC :D

Looks like Rob's idea is best then :cheers: Possible that there is no vacuum. Can you move the HCV by hand and feel the hose to verify that hot coolant is flowing in to the heater core?

I'm not 100% sure, but does the 88 MJ have the same vacuum actuated heater core valve as my 90? Mine was not giving any heat last winter, and I discovered that the valve that opens for the hot coolant to flow in to the heater core was not operating properly. I ended up manually opening it and leaving it there. It gets a bit warmer in the cab in the summer, but I'll never have to worry about not getting heat when I need it.

LoTGoD

CW, This pic is from a build on Pirate by a guy name Tim. He took his XJ and made it in to an MJ'ish truck/RCRocks comp rig. Here is his build thread: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=664135 PLENTY of reading in there!

Awesome story Rob! Did you get pics of the shady guy? :cheers:

Woops....I meant 4-dr XJ...really I did :D I'm burnt out on my MJ...so you'll have to forgive the mental lapse.