mvusse

Strasburg (I-77, 15 miles south of Canton). Rittman is not even 45 minutes from here. We had another member in Wakeman (near Norwalk). I guess he's still a member, but he sold his Comanche.

Looking at my 87 4 cylinder, the answer is yes, but the air intake hose might make it difficult to get to the cap.

Marcel, Hate to burst your bubble but we are up to 11 employee's now. We never claimed to be as big as Quadratec (or the like), but we are growing and have recently even moved to a newer larger facility. -Adam Sorry, my bad. Since I have only ever had you or Rebecca on the phone I imagined it was just the two of you. :oops:

Had an XJ with an AX15 and the clutch was a switch. Maybe 1/32" traver between fully engaged and fully disengaged. Clutch on my AX5 is great, though. About the only great thing on that drive train,

It's possible they don't stock what you ordered, so they need to get it from the supplier first. MO is not a large corporation, but rather a small 2 person company.

why don't you just run 33's then and a 4.5in lift It's just always been a dream/wish of mine to have at least a 6.5in lift and 35's. And I'm thinkin I might as well go big or go home. Sooo, that's just my thought, and the comment above yours recommended "BDS" for the lift but the highest lift they have for Comanches are 3. Is there a brand that you would recommend(that makes at least a 6.5in lift...preferably 8in) Cherokee front is the same as Comanche front. Get the front part of their Cherokee 8.5" long arm lift, in the rear go SOA with a 3" lift spring pack. (Hell Creek or Motion Offroad, I believe they are the same, both of them are on this board).

I would not recommend 8" But if you really want to go that high, definitely BDS.

Your best bet will be to use the Cherokee sending unit and pump with an aftermarket Comanche tank that does not have the slosh pan. The pump mounts to the sending unit, not to the tank.

The pan is to help keep the gas around the pickup tube when the tank is mostly empty and the remaining gas is sloshing around the tank. An XJ tank will NOT fit under an MJ.

Usually a SOA conversion works well with 6.5" coils up front. For 4.5" coils with a heavy bumper and winch, that looks about what could be expected.

Maybe you need a computer that doesn't suck even more? Gaming, 3d modelling and real time simulations beat harder on the hardware and need more processing power than anything else.

Even though I own three Jeeps (and one GMC camper/tow rig), my favorites in the promo video are the bobbed Deuce, the Unimog (actually wheeled with one a month ago, GAWD those things are big!) and the 8wd whatever (Tatra? HOWO? Cab is all wrong for a HEMTT). But since the promo mentions realistic damage, how come the side mirror survived the Hilux flopping on it's side in the above video?

Fixed it for you.

I run 35" tires on 6.5" lift. It can be done with cutting, adjustable control arms and bump stopping. I don't know about the original poster, but for the off-camber wheeling I do, 8 or 9" lift will definitely put me on my side if not on the roof. Even with 1.5" wheel spacers in the rear, at 6.5" I have had a few pucker moments. One where I was stopped by a tree, one where it looked like it was going over, but then settles back again, and one where it was balancing on two wheels for a couple of seconds before I back the truck out a few inches. That time we ended up tying a tow strap to one of the cargo loops in the bed with a bunch of people pulling on it to keep it rubber side down through that spot. On top of that, Rusty has left a bad taste in the mouth of multiple members on here due to low quality product, and warranty claims being a nightmare to deal with. Supposedly their coil springs are good, though, but I don't personally know anyone who uses them. Don't know what you use for a rear axle, but you will be at the edge of the D30 front. I go through a few axle shafts and u joints each year (although if I were not locked in the front they would probably last longer) as well as multiple unit bearings. On top of that I have had to do a complete differential rebuild also. The best affordable u joints I had found were the cold forged, non cross drilled Spicer 5-760x ones, but Alloy USA now makes a Chromoly one for $35. A friend of mine has one on his Cherokee, but not enough experience with it yet to do a strength comparison.

Grand Cherokees came either with a D35, or an ALUMINUM D44. Neither makes a great axle. The Comanche being a 2.5/5 speed *should* have 4.10 gears, but always check to make sure. The edge of the ring gear has the number of teeth on it and on the pinion gear engraved in it. Divide one by the other to get the ratio. But the rear being a 35 is not worth any $$$ besides scrap value. I know some Dakotas had a D44 rear axle, so I imagine Durangos could also, but as already said, wrong wheel bolt pattern. 97+ Cherokee 8.25 sounds like the best choice. I've heard late 96 can have 29 spline also, but my 96 had a 27 spline one under it.

Took it on a 347 mile, 10 hour road trip to collect some parts and tools.

in 4wd full time I have noticed mine making turns. even out of the drive way i can feel the u joints. i was just wondering if it would help driveability in 4wd full time. i don't mind the u joints but if it starts storming while i am in the MJ i would rather something that won't wiggle the steering Only time I've been able to feel u joints in the front axle has been between one or more ends being out of grease, but before the needle bearings get ground up into powder. The joint will try to cease up and may possible make a squeaking noise although I've only ever heard that in driveshaft ones. After a few days the needle bearings disappear causing play and a clicking sound.

The reason it has a Cherokee on top is because we rolled it and the body wasnt repair-able so we put the Jeep body on it In that case, great but unusual way to fix it. I thought it was purpose built like that to begin with. :thumbsup:

I think the frame and drivetrain hang down too low below the body. Other than that, for what has likely been invested in that I'd probably build a custom tube buggy.

Electrolysis is great for smaller parts, but for large parts you'd pretty much a swimming pool (or make a red neck one yourself like you're talking about). But wire wheels still have their purpose as well.

You can also use one out of a YJ or TJ, but will have to modify your floor a bit (I cut a 2" by 3" hole and used fiberglass matting and 2 part epoxy filler to make a bubble) to clear the double cardan joint on the front driveshaft as these transmission clock the transfer case up higher. Other than that they are a bolt in. I like the YJ transfer case shifter linkage better also, but it moves the shifter forward a few inches, so you will have to modify your center console if you have one. 4.10 gears with the 5 speed give the same final ratio in 5th as the 4 speed with 3.55 gears does in 4th. On stock tires I found that too low (19mpg at 75mph), so I swapped in a 5 speed but kept the 3.55 gears. Gutless, but now I get 24mpg at 75mph (or 27mpg at 60, same as I did with the 4 speed). If I want power I use my daughter's XJ. 4.0 HO, 4,10 gears and a custom tuned ECM :brows:

My friend's TJ rear Dana 35 for some reason ground the pinion gear into an almost smooth ball with no teeth left in 20,000 miles of driving, never been to an off road park. Should have been a factory warranty issue, but the dealership refused it for some reason. Because of the 200 worth of brackets to weld on for a TH (4 link with panhard bar rear suspension) he opted against upgrading to a better axle, so we installed new gears and he sold the Jeep. I witnessed an XJ snap a D35 axle shaft off road with 30x9.50 tires I wheeled my D35 with first 29", then 33" tires until the pinion bearings went out, then swapped in the 29 spline 8.25" I had had laying in the back yard for a few month just for that purposed. Ended up giving away what was left of the 35 for free. I think they just wanted one the shafts out of it. Listen to Pete. Don't bother putting any money into that Dana 35 besides brakes and gear oil. I paid $100 for the 8.25" under my Comanche. I got the 4.10 29 spline 8.25" under my daughter's Cherokee for free. If you have a Pull-a-part nearby, ANY rear axle is <$100, Pick n Pull is just a bit over, I think LKQ is comparable. A $25 angle grinder will make quick work of any brackets (spring perches, shock mounts) that the axle may have, new perches and shock mounts don't cost much (I get mine from Ruff Stuff Specialties). I had mine welded on by a local welding shop for $20. If you know a buddy with a large enough welder he may do it for a few beers. Either way, $200 or less to upgrade the axle.

I drove this one a few months ago. But they were only considered road because I was in a Jeep.

Hosed off 300 pounds of mud, filling in a low spot in my lawn.

Also any 97 or newer 4 cylinder Cherokee would most likely have 4.10 gears. At that time it may be cheaper to grab the front D30 as well instead of regearing your current axle.