mvusse

Where are you located and what gear ratio do you need? I have a 3.55 ratio 29 spline 8.25" for sale.

A/C system does not have a vacuum tank. The only part that looks like a tank is the dryer and should be replaced any time the system has been open.

Funny that you mention that. Almost every LKQ down here I've been to has a strict NO ELECTRIC TOOLS policy. Must be a southern thing... and it can be quite a nuisance sometimes.... :fs1: :wall: Up here, there are a few rules at LKQ: No Alcohol No Jacks No torches The day I got that bed section I had a generator, extension cords, angle grinder, and a handful of cut off blades... Depending on the day, you hear generators all over the yard. Makes the job so much easier. Electric impact/air impact, saws, grinders... Rob Pull A Part has the same rules. I have only ever seen one generator, but I've seen bunches of battery powered impacts, sawz-alls and angle grinders.

AX5?

That would be a 29 spline then. Definitely a worthwhile upgrade. You will have to cut off the spring perches and shock mounts (angle grinder works good for this) and have new perches welded on in the correct position.

???? Dana 30 is a front axle. Did you mean Dana 35? Anything is better than a D35. 8.25" comes in two varieties: 27 spline (early 96 and older) or 29 spline (late 96 and newer). The 27 spline is better than a Dana 35, the 29 spline is better than the 27 spline. $60 is a good price even if it's only a 27 spline.

Imagine so, never tried that as I have never yet seen a Liberty in a junk yard.

Yes, but I have never found any sort of correlation between the floater arm length and tank volume.

It will definitely rotate the transfer case up a bit. This may or may not be an issue with the MJ/XJ transfer case shifter, but I don't know for sure as I use a YJ shifter in mine. With a high pinion D30 it also causes interference between the double cardan joint on the transfer case end of the driveshaft and the floor. It may or may not do this with a low pinion D30.

With the 4 speed it would most likely have 3.55 gears, not 4.10. Stock tire size for it is most likely 205/75R15. The relay is for the fog lights.

Hmmm, I run ZJ disks on my 8.25" and only drilled the center hole out to 3". The bolt holes lined up perfectly.

John, for info on the AX4/AX5, contact Pat, JeepcoMJ. He has rebuilt a bunch of them. Anyway, it was good meeting you.

As for the filters, from what I hear Wix is good, as are the NAPA ones which are made by Wix. I myself prefer the Purolater Pur-One.

I have found a track bar with a tiny bit of play can allow DW to happen. A LOT of play can cause loose steering and the truck wandering all over your lane, but has too much movement to hit a harmonic with the steering.

Transmission: Peugot - no clue AX4/AX5 - 10W30 motor oil (sulphur in gear oil eats the brass synchros) AX15 - 10W30 motor oil (sulphur in gear oil eats the brass synchros) AW4 - Dexron/Mercon ATF Transfer case: 231 - Dexron/Mercon ATF 242 - Dexron/Mercon ATF I know some people use gear oil in the 231. I see no issue with this other than the synchro between 2 hi and 4 hi is, you guessed it, brass. Rear diff (D35, D44 or Chrysler 8.25): for towing or heavy hauling - 90W140 normal driving - 75W90 or 80W90 are fine Front diff - 75W90 or 80W90 Motor oil - I use Mobil 1 high mileage as it is still API SL. I refuse the run SM or SN unless I add something containing ZDDP. Most 4 cycle motorcycle oils are SF/SG/SJ and would work also. Coolant: I just run the cheap green stuff mixed with distilled water. Tap water around here has so much iron in it that the rust gunk condensing out of it will plug up a radiator beyond repair in less than a week if you do. Brakes - DOT 3 Clutch - DOT 3 Windshield washer - whatever blue stuff is cheapest. Gasoline - 87 octane.

Things are only worth what other are willing to pay for it. He can ask whatever he wants, but there ain't no way it'll sell for $8200

Most common cause of death wobble in my experience are issues with the track bar and the frame side track bar bracket. If neither of those are it there are 50 or so other possible causes. If all else fails a heavy duty steering stabilizer can usually effectively mask it, but it doesn't fix whatever underlying issue you have.

I'm not talking about the chain breaking. I'm talking about what it's hooked to ripping, or the chain coming loose. And MJ frame is just a few layers of sheet metal stacked on top of each other.

BAD idea. If something comes loose you will have 50 pounds of steel flying through the air with enough force to go through sheet metal or a radiator. And that's assuming it doesn't go through the window and take your head off. Recovery strap with loops on both ends.

At 3" you might want to think about control arms and sway bar links as well, especially if that 3" ends up being more than 3". Beware that longer shackles turn the pinion up, giving you an incorrect pinion angle, which could possibly give you a driveline vibration. You also mention U bolts front and back. What are the front u bolts for?

A rebuild 2.8 is still a 2.8. Kind of like a D35.

Which means proper recovery points front and rear and a good quality recovery strap with loops at the end, not steel hooks. Not a tow strap. They may look the same, but they are not. DEFINITELY NOT A CHAIN!!! Also bring common sense equipment: full size spare, first aid kit, fire extinguisher, basic tools.

My suggestion would be to convert it to 4wd.

Sparkles is nearing 190K on the factory coil, 147K and 25 years on Wilbur, 90K and 25 years on the Purple People Eater. Come to think of it, I have NEVER had to change out a coil on any of my vehicles. Not even my then 29 years old F100 with 230K when I wrecked it. Coil going bad at 100K would mean bad quality craftsmanship.

I'm willing to bet the problem is the hole in the frame side bracket being wallowed out and nothing's wrong with your new track bar. Despite what it looks like to the naked eye. The pin in the tie rod end of the track bar is supposed to be able to pivot. If it slides sideways, though, causing the track bar to shift it would be about to come apart and fall off.