mvusse

Looking at available real estate on my D60 which is extremely limited on the driver side, spring spacing, and availability of aftermarket brackets and trusses, I've been brainstorming about how to install it. 4 link is going to be just about impossible without trussing the axle and sticking everything including spring seats on top of the truss. This will add hugely to my lift. If I ignore the driver side upper link which is the main problem I can keep my D60 full width, probably get the springs in the right place, possibly space the lower control arms a little wider (may need to go to some kind of joints on them instead of rubber bushings) and keep the current lift about the same. This would be a 3 link. I do not have long arms, do not (yet) want long arms. What are your thoughts about running a front 3 link with panhard bar similar to the stock 4 link, but with the driver side upper control arm removed? Discuss.

Looks like you may have to get one from a junk yard.

Had a new passenger side upper control arm bracket welded on.

I do not agree that the Mopar Performance perches are stronger than Ruffstuff's 3/16" steel fully boxed ones. But I would go with them because the Ruffstuff Specialties perches are overkill where a much cheaper and plenty strong quality alternative exists.

I used Ruffstuff Specialties when I went SOA. And I will again on my next axle. For staying SUA it is too much money, and their perch will drop the back of the truck down lower.

Staying SUA I would use stock replacement perches from the dealership. They're MUCH cheaper than you'd imagine.

Or maybe it's that you tightened up the steering box bolts in the process...

I got the whole shebang, from the pitman arm to the steering knuckles off a V8 ZJ. The main thing is the tie rod being larger diameter AND a solid rod instead of our hollow tube being much stronger. Even if you put it into a rock, it will just bend a bit instead of buckling like the stock one will. Direct bolt-on.

Assuming 6 cylinder automatic, any AW4 from 97-01 I think. Say, you going to Southington Offroad (used to be Jeepskool) first weekend of November?

2 way or 3 way.

Sometimes balljoints as well.

Renix 4.0, the plain vanilla COPPER Champions.

Pull the trans, install your old flywheel, see if it starts to rule out the flexplate. I'm starting to think you may have damaged the cps.

My trail rig's rear axle is spring over, locked, on 35" tires. Only time I had an issue was bouncing during a rear wheel stand trying to climb a near vertical ledge. Pinion rotated up to where the u joint couldn't turn anymore and I twisted the rear driveshaft in half. Only issue over more than 50 trips off road in the past 4 years. Traction bars are overrated. If you do think you need it, look into a "BAM bar".

Put a straight wheel on it, jack up he rear and put it on jack stands, then idle it in gear and see if the wheel wobbles.

Has been a long time since I had a flywheel off, and never took a flywheel or flex plate off a Jeep 4.0, so a question: is there a key or something that indexes it to the crankshaft? Or is there more than one orientation to bolt it on.

Between 90 and 91 the input shafts should be interchangeable. Around 94 they changed some stuff, including the cut of the gears. Make sure you have a large clean work table to organize parts in such a way that you know how to put it together again. I've had a few 231s apart and they are not overly complicated, but I imagine a 242 to be just a wee bit more complex.

Computer under the dash is Renix. Maybe the flex plate you ordered for an 87 Comanche is not for an 87 Comanche? And the one you ordered for the 90XJ also isn't? Would not be uncommon for people (and computers) to think that all parts interchange from 84 right through 92, meaning they gave you one (two) for 91-92 model year with the Chrysler OBD I setup.

:doh:

Early 96 and late 96 make a difference. Early 96 they piggybacked the OBD II stuff onto the OBD I harness, late 96 they started using the 97 harness. But if you swap just the dash and not the wiring, there should be no problem. I also don't know why the steering column would be different between 92 and 96.

If it's an overfueling issue, the ballast resistor cannot be the cause. The cat being red hot does usually mean way too much unburned fuel is entering the exhaust, so Mountanman may be on to something.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe the 249 shift pattern is a little different from the 242, meaning you may need to change the shift gate as well. Also, if needed and if I remember correctly the input shaft can be swapped between similar year 231/242/249.

Sounds like you need to teach her to not text while driving.

I know in the 231 there is a syncrho between 2wd and 4 high. I assume the 242 is the same.

Rotated tires, removed passenger side axle shaft again because of a bad u joint.