mvusse

Don't forget that adding leafs makes the pack stiffer. Since this seems to be a daily driver, you probably don't want to make it ride like a dump truck. If you have access to Comanche leafs, you could make a bastard pack with the XJ main leaf and one other leaf combined with two Comanche leafs for still a total of 4.

X2. Replace both wheel cylinders, they cost less than $10.

All 87 and newer Metric Tonne equipped Comanches had a Dana 44 (86 got an AMC20), however, the Dana 44 also came as part of the towing package and could be optioned separately as a "heavy duty rear axle". So MT means Dana 44 (among other things), but Dana 44 does not necessarily mean MT. And the 44s disappear quickly. I happened to come upon a MT Comanche in a junk yard that has been placed 6 hours earlier. The rear axle was already missing.

Wiper delay module should be easy enough to find a a junk yard. Way easier than trying to fix one.

With a Dana 35 under the back, this truck would not have been a M/T, unless that axle was swapped in at a later time.

There are at least a few in Europe as a whole. I remember seeing one from France and one from Norway (or was it Sweden) on here.

You need the power door harness that runs across the truck under the carpet near the firewall. For power it has a pigtail that plugs into the front of the fuse panel next to the (30 amp?) fuse. You also need the lock and unlock relays. I think everything else is there, but might be forgetting something.

I don't repurpose, I build from scratch. Liquor cabinet I did for my daughter: And even thought this is a Comanche forum, I would like to see some better pics of that Beetle hiding in front of the MJ.

Yes, loc-tite even with the factory torque specs. And locating to TDC is not necessary because, as Pat pointed out, the bolt holes are not symmetric. There is only one way they will all line up.

Because of gazillion aftermarket support.

That's a Ford 8.8" axle. Stronger than the stock Dana 35 it probably had, but a bit narrower also.

I locked the front one my MJ first, and it made a world of difference. Then I locked the rear and I could hardly notice any difference in traction. Our trucks are too light in the back. Even with the rear axle locked, there is not enough traction to push the front, which is where all the weight is.

Congratulations on your new toy. I have never seen a rust free Comanche around here... On a side note, I was born and lived in the Netherlands until I was 16 and we moved to Canada.

I shipped a set pf 3" Comanche lift springs once from OH to GA. Slapped a shipping label on them and dropped them off, cost about $30 each IIRC.

The Purple People Eater came stock with 205/75R15 tires. I run 235/5R15 on it, and when the speedometer reads 70, I'm going 75 as per my GPS

Actually, with the speedometer gears having around 30 teeth, they will step up or down 3%-3.5% from one to the next. Cut that in half to get to the nearest size you need and you will be within less than 2% off just by changing the gear. That is about the same accuracy as the difference between a new tire and a worn down one.

IF he had not chopped the top I would offer 1/10 of the asking price. But since he did it has no value for me other than maybe the engine for my camper.

Here in the rust belt, even if the bumper still looks solid on the outside, the inside has been rotted away and should not be trusted with anything heavier than a cement mixer or log splitter. I think the bumper was originally rated for trailers up to 1,000 pounds, but my memory might be failing me on that.

I could pick those up, dismount the tires and ship the rims at your cost if you're interested.

I believe they came stock on the Comanche Eliminator.

As well as for the 4.0 automatic in 87 and later years. But doesn't the OP have the 2.8 V6?

They are both stock Comanche/Cherokee rims. I'm guessing your came with the aluminum 10 spoke and when one broke or whatever happened to it, the steel one was they only one they could find/would pay for. My 87 Pioneer came with 5 10 spoke aluminum ones (including full size spare), my 87 base model (not even a dash clock, cigarette lighter or radio) has 9 slot steel wheels. I have also seen 8 slot, 10 slot two different types of 6 hole and 5 hole steel rims. The 8, 9 and 10 slot look quite similar unless you set them side by side and pay close attention. There are a number of different aluminum designs as well. It's actually quite unbelievable how many different rim designs were used during the 17 years the Cherokee was produced. Then when you add in Wranglers from 86 through 06, Grand Cherokees 93 through 98 (some are 16") and Liberty 02-07 (all are 16" or possibly larger), you end up with well over 50 different rims with the same bolt pattern and backspacing in 6", 7" and 8" width.

As far as the wheels being stuck, they could have either rusted to the drum, or they could just be tight on the hub. Either way heat may help, as well as a hammer on the wheel mating surface between the lug nuts. Wheel not wanting to turn, like Jim stated, is the brakes rusted up. Flat spotting is something bias ply tires do, but you most likely have radial ply tires. Even so, it is not good to always sit on the same spot, and even worse to have no air pressure with weight on it (flat tire). No matter how well you take care of them, they will eventually dry rot.

Late reply, but one more little detail I remembered. The Ford hubs are larger than both Chevy and Dodge. Like 5.5" or so. This means that Chevy and Dodge wheels won't fit even though the bolt pattern is correct, because the center opening of the wheel is too small.

Your family owns a drive-in also?