mvusse

Still stock here too. Hopefully will actually have my seat bolted down tomorrow, then Tuesday my new (to me) stock leaf springs and front skid plate should be arriving. Still trying to decide if I have the funds to get some Chevy drop shackles for about $40. And see if I can find a CB antenna roof mount locally. If not I'll have to order one. Thinking of the Firestik dome mount.

Dude, I like your Comanche, but the Pinzgauer and the scenery blow it away!

Both on my $20 RS meter and my buddy's $400 HAM setup, needle not moving is 1. That's where the scale starts. Guess your meter has a different scale. No matter, though, needle not moving (whether 0 or 1) is as good as you're gonna get. I'm pretty sure the problems I'm having are caused by my choice of location. I thought it would be cool to mount the antenna in the stock radio antenna location, but the fender just does not make for a good ground plane. Gonna order a roof mount and stick one of them (probably 3') dead smack in the middle of my roof. Where'd you mount your antenna?

To post a picture you have to first upload it to a place like photobucket.com. You then use the tag to link to it. Nice thing about photobucket is that it provides the link for you, and all you do is cut and paste it into your message.

For that to work, the vacuum disconnect on the front axle needs to be engaged, which will need the engine running for vacuum. Also transfer case in 4wd (high or low) and transmission in N.

I have heard mention several times that Chevy drop shackles can be used to lift a Comanche, but I have a few questions. I'm assuming these are for full size Chevys, correct? First of all, would I need 88-98 ones, or 99-06 ones? Second, How much lift will 1" drop shackles give? And third, 2" drop shackles?

I'm pretty sure I posted the possibility of different gearing for the axles in a different thread, but can't remember if that was you or someone else. Either way, that would be my first guess as well.

I think the safer way would be to disconnect the line at the filter, Just keep the gas aimed away from your face, and away from the (hot?) exhaust. It'd be best for the environment to catch it in a pan.

Yeah, I think Wildman has a good writeup on how to fix that. basically it consists of welding 1/4 brake line into what's left of the good part of the line going into the tank. Worked well on my return line so far. As for the intake filter (sock), most auto parts stores have them or can get them. BLHTaz migh be able to get them for you too. But by the way you add shipping, his discount may not save you any.

My cheap RS one gives me the same reading as my buddy's Radiocraft, so I know it is accurate enough for my purpose. I think I'm going to try a roof mount,as the fender mount is just not working well. I have an swr of 1.4 with my 102" whip, but with a 3' and 4' one the lowest I can get it to is about 3. I may try a different cable first, but I'm pretty sure the problem is the fender not providing a very good ground plane. Either that, or tie a piece of fishing line to the top if the 102" and force it down into an arc toward the rear bumper. I might try that first, since it's the easiest solution. And yes, a lot of newer radios do lower their output when the swr is 3 or higher. It's a safety feature to prevent the output amplifier from being damaged by the high voltage of the reflected wave.

Trust me, my buddy's Radiocraft 3000 is not a Radio Shack special. and at $400 is not cheap. It's scale starts at 1 and goes to infinity.

Please tell me, when an swr of 1 is perfect, and the scale starts at 1, how you can have an swr below 1 (as in 0)?

Be aware that although the front sockets (available from Advance) physically interchange with our Jeeps, the wiring is different, Black gos to black, blue to brown and brown to blue. Unless you want a really bright parking light, and a signal light that is hardly visible when your parking lights are on.

I drove a p/u truck with no ps and no pb for years. Despite not having power brakes, if you stomped on the pedal hard enough, it would still lock up all 4 wheels. As for the steering, on the freeway it is no problem. You won't even notice it. Making sharper turns at lower speeds, like around town become a chore, though, and don't even ask me about parking lots. A very sharp, very low speed turn (almost like a switchback) made me dislocate a finger, The next day I called a wrecking yard and told them I need everything to change my vehicle over to power steering. A week later I picked everything up for $125 and spent from 6pm 'till 2 am to install it. I'm sure the CJ5 could be converted as well, but I'm sure parts for it are less plentiful and therefore a bit more expensive, but considering what you're paying for it, the total cost would still be worth it. Good luck! Oh, and I wouldn't tow anything as heavy as a vehicle (either flat, dolly or trailer) with a bumper hitch. Borrow a vehicle with a class III receiver, and make sure the tow bar is securely fastened to the frame of the towed vehicle, or something else securely fastened to the frame. Do not trust the front bumper to attach it to.

Hey, how did you take those pictures of my spare tire carrier? Still anxiously waiting for you to be done, so I can see the finished project.

Especially on dry pavement you will have binding issues when turning in 4WD. If you have binding issues going in a straight line, either your tires of different sizes on your axles, or more likely, different ratio front and rear axles.

If the turn signal indicators (or one of them) glow when the headlights are on, that indicates a bad ground. Usually, but not necessarily, at one of the front lights.

Bad ground?

Wintermark snow tires. Just got my new set at 10:00 this moring.

X2. The only time it failed me was the seat belts in my Ford (T50 bit). I snapped three torx bits before I gave up and welded the new floor around that part. But they were Craftsman, and easily exchanged.

I'm running 235/75R15 on 15x7 rims, with a bit of rubbing on the lca on extreme left turns. That's a 9.25x29" tire. I guess I could adjust the steering stop a bit to fix the rubbing. and will do so at some point in time. I have heard 9.5x31 works, but 10.5x31 will cause rubbing issues.

I'm guessing the gap is smaller because of 120 pounds of sand against the tailgate. That does compress the suspension somewhat.

Both links give me a page asking me to sign up for gmail. No pics.

Sorry for the late reply on tire sizes. My glove box lid has tire pressures listed ranging from 195/75R15 to 225/75R15. I believe 205 was stock, with 225 optional from the factory. I currently run 235 on the stock turbine 7" rims, and have the occasional rub on the ps lca. One of these months I may adjust the steering stop to eliminate that. Also, be aware XJ lift blocks don't work, as the XJ has the rear spring over the axle and our tracks have the spring under the axle. Stick a block in there and you'll be lowering your truck closer to the pavement. I also have only have heard bad things about the ride with 3" add-a-leafs. I'd like to lift my truck about 6" with a SOA conversion, but not until I have saved up money for the lift with long arm kit, wheels and tires so I can do it right. I might get a 3" lift next year, but keep the 235 tires I'm getting in an hour and a half.

:agree: I bought the Chilton, and it's such a mess I bought a Haynes not 10 minutes after the Chilton arrived in the mail.