mvusse

Yeah, but that orange trail almost got me in trouble and left the "surprise" dent behind the passenger door as a souvenir. Plus that's where I overheated.

Today, driving almost 400 miles: Central to western Indiana: $3.949 to $4.099 Central Ohio to central Indiana: $3.899 to $3.939 Northeast Ohio to central Ohio; $3.839 to $3.899 Strasburg, OH right now at $3.839

I pretty much eliminated tire balance in my case, as I rotated my tires about every which way, and the end result was always the same. unless all 5 tires were all out of balance by the same amount? I do know I have it fixed now for sure, as I just drove 800+ miles at 65mph this weekend as well as 6+ hours off road about halfway through without ever experiencing it again. Lots of pot holes and bumps on the highway as well. Also found out the beads in my tires do not always keep them properly balanced above 55 mph, but usually when they are out of balance, the first pot hole I hit fixes them again. Methinks maybe they should have put a bit more in.

Made it back from Badlands. 390 miles measured on the way back, 65mph the whole way, averaged 24 mpg And that's a stock Renix 4.0 on slightly oversized tires (235/75R15) running 41 psi. Anyway, here's what I learned I need from some new dents and a mangled rear bumper: -auxiliary fan and fan shroud. I missed the last 2 hours because I overheated. -transfer case linkage need some slight adjustment. It kept popping in and out of 4 lo under heavy load, so I had to use 4 hi all day. My transmission is probably hating me, and it may have been a factor in overheating. -LIFT! I need at least 3" before the next trip. -gas tank skid plate. I left some paint behind on a rock, but the tank survived the entire day. I do not quite know how. That's what I got for thinking I can go up where 89eliminator did. He's running SOA/6.5" and 10.50x33 on a short bed. -rock rails. I have a lwb Comanche, so may have to make them myself, but they would have prevented every dent with the possible exception of 1 that took me by surprise. The rear bumper will be fine after I back it into the tree a few times. Having a rusted/rotted but functional bumper you don't care about was the way to go. I was not the only one with bumper damage, as a U-channel bumper on a Wagoneer completely broke off the right side and almost tore off the left side right in front of me. And Lead-not-follow did a pretty good number on his in the same place. Bigger tires will really be helpful on the bigger ledges and rocks, plus help ground clearance, however my little snow tires surprised the heck out of me (P235/75R15 Wintermark, aired down to 20 psi). They were decent on the rocks, pretty good in the sand, good enough in the river, outstanding in mud and muck, and got me up every climb I tried on the first attempt without stopping with the exception of one that had a ledge taller than my tire. Looking at what everyone ran, I think I will go with 10.50x33 next time I need tires. I do not think 35" will fit without major surgery even with 6+ inches of lift.

Cats, pollen, dust mites mold spores. Take a 24 hour Claritin in the morning, and if they're bad I add 2 Benadryl before going to bed. If it's really bad I take another 2 Bendaryl as soon as I get home from work and crash on the couch.

On my setups over here, Netscape and Firefox share cookies.

I just added a bunch too. Too lazy to fire up the other two computers and scoot my desk chair around. Actually, too lazy to get up off the couch, so I open 3 more logins, each with a different user, so the cookies won't get shared (root superuser, my daughter, and guest) and just hot-keyed through all 4 logins, allowing me 4 votes a minute. Oh, I'm using Linux, no clue if this is possible in Windows.

Oil in the coolant, coolant in the oil, low compression on one or more cylinders. It is more likely for a head *gasket* to blow, which is a relatively inexpensive fix, and the symptoms are usually the same.

Definitely sounds like the clutch is not disengaging completely. It might need adjusted, if there is an adjustment, or there's air in the system.

$299 is for 8 injectors :D Oops, my bad :oops:

Did you or are you converting to an open cooling system? That bottle can't be used with a closed system.

I just noticed your Ohio license plate. Where's that at? Wellsville?

$299.95 each, so for a set that would be $1799.70... I'd go with the reman ones from precision.

I would go for the Dell, mainly because of the higher resolution, which is difficult to change in a laptop. The .10GHz difference between processor speed will not be noticeable unless you pay attention to benchmark numbers. If you find you need more RAM, that will be easy to add, and relatively cheap.

No, you then drain the radiator and block, and then fill with a 50/50 mixture.

Yes, instead of putting the heater on full blast. And reread my last message, I edited it to add some stuff to it.

That valve is vacuum operated, but it defaults to wide open. So all you have to do is pull the vacuum hose off it. As for the thermostat, I would not run cold water through a hot block. The certain change in temperature could technically crack the block, but more likely would be damage to gaskets from the metal moving (shrinking) too fast. Plus, as soon as the cold water hit the thermostat it would start to close anyway. I can't remember for sure what the thermostat housing looks like on the inside, but I believe the bypass hole that goes to the heater hose (to the heater core and overflow/pressure bottle) also opens to the radiator hose. But all back flush kits I have seen are meant for an open system. To work on our Jeeps, and make sure you flush the radiator as well, I would run it with the upper radiator hose disconnected from the radiator, but still hooked up to the thermostat housing. That way, if too much water comes through the hose to properly flush the heater line, cover it with your hand. The water will back flush the radiator through the bottom hose and out the upper hose hole. I would connect the T fitting in the hose between the thermostat housing and heater control valve (that funky vacuum valve).

Check this out. Use the JEEP discount code for 10% off (thanks to one of our members). I believe they are Ford 4.6 injectors. They have a better spray pattern than the 20 years old ones we use, but the same flow rate. Most everybody has reported smoother idle, some have reported easier starts, better fuel economy (on the order of 15% or so!) and more power. I myself have yet to do it, but the only reason I haven't yet is because pretty much all of my money so far has been going into fixing my Jeep. I guess that's what I get for buying a wrecked and neglected truck for $400. As soon as I have the money I'm getting them. If I safe any fuel, I guess I'll call it an investment, but I'm not holding my breath as I'm already getting 22mpg highway with the 4.0

Full time 4wd is really awd. With rear wheel drive (2wd) if you have one rear wheel on pavement and one on ice, you won't go anywhere. With awd and no form of traction control, if you have ANY ONE wheel (even a front one) on ice you won't go anywhere. But it can help prevent fishtails and skids in slippery conditions, without having to worry about switching back to 2wd before making a turn on dry pavement. It's got advantages, it's got disadvantages, but for $55 you can't really go wrong. The only vehicle I've driven with full time 4wd was an 81 Chevy K20, but it had gov-locks front and back. That brings back some memories...

Hey, I called the b*@$£ a bad word, and the forum software itself changed it to a bunch of symbols. Cool! Didn't mean to test that, but hey, this is the testing area...

Yeah, my marriage ended 3 and a half years ago when the @$#% left me after 12 years, The only 2 women in my life right now are my kids. So there's no one to tell me not to go to Attica. Heck, my 11 year old is coming with me, and if I break beyond being able to fix it there, my 17 year old will have to come get me with the Suburban.

If gas were to cost what it did 5 years ago, there'd be no problem. You live about an hour 45 straight up 250 from me, but nowadays that'd be $35 in gas. Good luck, though, and stay safe! :cheers:

Isn't it possible to put an AX15 behind the 2.5, using a Dakota bell housing or something?

On my 87 with the brake cables going in from the front, the adjuster cable is on the back. Same with my (RIP) Ford, Suburban and (RIP) Geo.

And yes, the rubber "cladding" held on by two pieces of sticky tape will peel right off if you're careful. I had the same stuff on my ps fender, which came of a Cherokee Sport.