mvusse

I know my brother in law didn't have any problem finding stuff for his 71, but due to lack of time he sold it half finished to a class mate of his daughter's. He is now working on it with his father and wants to swap in an LS1 they have sitting in the garage. It was a 2wd C10 straight 6, with I believe a 2 link coil sprung rear suspension.

It sounded a lot like what my fuel pump going out on my 4.0 acted like, until you said a restart fixed the problem. I would actually need to let the truck sit long enough for the pump to cool off before it was okay again (for a while).

My Ford with a wood bed had those same tail lights, but there was/is one problem: no back up lights. When you are backing up in the dark riding your brake pedal to be able to see, you will know what I'm talking about.

under under under do not go over. if you find it necessary to make trail repairs which require the removal of the rear axle, or dropping ubolts for whichever reason, you will now have to bleed brakes as well, and hope you don't wreck your hardlines. Very good point. I've been up for 19 1/2 hours, 9 1/2 of which was driving from Ohio to Canada (2 1/2 just to get through Detroit with construction and an accident blocking the only open lane during rush hour!). Maybe I should get some sleep before posting any more.

I would go over. Less chance they'll be hit by loose rock and stuff. If you do decide to go under, run them up against the back edge of the axle.

You guys make it sound so easy. However, even using that technique it took me 4 hours! The one side pushed out a bit and got styuck, then i had to make the rest of the hub catch up so it was straight again before the first bolt would go a bit further. About 1/32" at a time... Repair manual was no help: "remove the three bolts and pull the hub out" or something to that extend. Took me almost an entire day to replace a $10 U-joint.

I used to have my daughter help me, but last time I did it by myself. Ran a 3/6 hose from the bleeder to a jar partway filled with brake fluid. Made sure the end of the hose was submerged.

When I installed a new complete header panel on my 87 MJ (out of a 94? XJ), I also got the alternating turn signal for free. But I lost my factory fog light wiring in the process. I kept the old harness to splice in the fog lights if I ever get a new pair.

A temporary fix might be to change out the 12 gauge wire for 10. What size fuse are you running in the line? With 12 gauge wire you should be running at most a 15A fuse, and that should blow before the wire gets hot enough to burn your fingers. Fuses are what protects your truck from burning to the ground.

Been too long since I moved out of Europe to have forgotten. LPG (Liquefied Petroleum Gas, or basically propane) is commonly used as an automotive fuel in Europe. Gasoline engine can run it without internal modifications, and you can switch back and forth on the fly. Gasoline will give you more power, but LPG is much much cheaper, as it is essentially a waste byproduct of refining oil. Another common waste byproduct is called diesel. Why diesel and LPG are more expensive than gasoline in the US is something I have never yet been able to figure out.

E85 contains less energy per gallon than gasoline. Aside from that, it is also a very good solvent, and will wash the oil right off your cylinder walls. If you try to use, please add a good top end lubricant (2 cycle oil). Even then it will still cause faster wear of the engine. On top of all that, it is corrosive. It will eat your fuel lines, unless you replace them with stainless. It will eventually also eat the pump, tank and injectors. Even if I had a vehicle capable of running E85 I still wouldn't unless I had no choice. If people really want biofuels, run biodiesel in a Jetta and get a clean 55mpg. E85 is not, never has been and never will be the answer.

The heater control valve has nothing to do with the radiator, just the heater core. If removing the restrictive heater control valve (allowing more coolant to flow through the heater core, which is relatively small compared to the radiator) causes a noticeable drop in operating temperature, I'm guessing the radiator is (almost) completely clogged. First order of business would be to clean out the air passages through the outside, which can ususally be done with a garden hose and spray handle, if that doesn't solve it, take it to a radiator shop to have it flow tested. If bad it will either need reamed out or replaced.

You mean too little resistance, drawing too many amps? A higher resistance circuit will draw less amps, creating less heat in the wiring.

Seemingly useless ridges are added to sheetmetal to give it more strength. 16 gauge steel is think enough to not have to worry about that, but is a b*@$£ to work with because of its thickness/strength. I used 16 gauge galvanized to replace the floor in my F100. If I ever do a floor again, I'll either get replacement floor pans, or use 18 gauge.

I'm guessing you blew the head gasket when you overheated. Conversely, a blown head gasket can *cause* overheating.

Mud pictures from NM?

My personal opinion, do with it what you want: Keep the Jeeps. This is a no brainer. Get rid of the Toys. Get rid of the Ranger. Prune the herd of FS Fords Buy a decent XJ for her/family DD/wheeling After fixing up above XJ and having taken all usable parts of the freebie, junk what's left. Possibly fix the Durango for a tow rig to hold the family.

Don't know of any place to rent them. To buy they are $300 to $400. Take a look at pictures on the internet and McGuyver something yourself. It bolts to the furthermost left and right bolts, and then forces them apart to tweak the case a bit (make it longer) to take the tension off the carrier/temporarily give it more space. the trick is to make something that does not go in front of the opening, but rather around it. Otherwise the carrier will be nice and loose, but you can't get it out because of the spreader being in the way.

Hunting country? Even your mud comes in "safety orange".

I hate to do this, but I respectfully disagree. Peak gas mileage occurs at the engine speed where torque divided by rpm is highest. This is usually a bit lower than peak torque. As rpms go up, mileage goes down (generalization), as torque goes down, mileage goes down (also a generalization), therefore, once you are past the torque peak, mileage goes down in an awful big hurry, but it actually starts to go down slowly even before you hit the torque peak. Which engine gets better mileage depends on driving habits, type of driving, gearing and engine. I'm sure the Renix can get better mileage than the HO under certain circumstances. I'm also sure the HO can get better mileage under different circumstances. All I know is that with stock gears (3.55?), AW4 overdrive automatic and a 2" front lift my 87 Renix got 24mpg on the highway, mostly flat ground doing a steady 65mph with slightly oversized tires (235/75R15). Mileage has been corrected for tire size. i was also pleasantly surprised but this as only expected around 20 when I bought a truck with a 4 litre engine. This weekend I'm heading to Canada and will see what it will be at 70-75mph.

From replacing gears in my buddy's TJ a few years back, I'm pretty sure you need a case spreader for the Dana 35. You can probably get the carrier out without one, but going back in without messing up the shims is a different story.

From the Article: "Four P215/65R15 OWL “Eagle GT” radial tires mounted on gorgeous (and exclusive) 15x7 10-hole aluminum wheels with bright hub centers were standard." Oops! My bad. I was positive I read 10-spoke. Guess I need more caffeine to wake up.

Had to go to the link directly to see them, but those are not the rims the article mentions.

I thought Big Ton or Metric Tonne spring packs were 4+1. Those look like the standard 3+1 springs. Is it possible the springs have been replaced?

Most of the stuff he's making sound like only available on the 88 Eliminator, I had on my 87 Pioneer. Except it is a long bed 4x4. 4.0 liter, AW4, fabric headliner, hockeystick arm rests, door stowage bins, wingback buckets, floor carpeting, sun visors, three spoke steering, and carpet trim on the back of the cabin. As an added plus, my interior is black. Not that black wannabe called charcoal the Eliminator supposedly came with. Still a nice article, though.