mvusse

Well, the shredded belt was my own stupidity. After I replaced the alternator, put the belt back on and tightened it, I forgot to tighten the bolts on the power steering pump. So the belt was pulling it on an angle. And the shocks are on. In the above picture, the bottom one is a (I assume) stock shock. This is what was on the truck when I bought it. It goes from 13 1/8" to 20 5/8" The one above that is what I used after putting the 1.75" spacers in. It's the same shock with a 2.1/2" extension, making it extend from 15 5/8" to 23 1/8". The second one from the top is what I have in there now. It is one of my new shocks and extends from 14 5/8" to 24 5/8". So where the old shocks had 7 1/2" travel, my new ones have 10". They go from 1" shorter fully compressed to 1 1/2" longer fully extended than the stock shocks with the spacers installed. And the top one is a new one with the spacer installed. Too long for what I need. It travels from 17 1/8" to 27 1/8"

And if you are in fact overheating, have the radiator flow tested. As for filling the closed system, I take the cap off the pressure bottle and the upper radiator hose off the thermostat housing. I then fill through the upper radiator hose until it is up to the correct level in the pressure bottle. Put the hose back on and replace the cap. There will be some air in the system, but never had a problem yet by doing it that way.

Wrong! j/k :D I spent about an hour trying to find the tech site that has the info about the non disco 242 setup with no luck. I did run across a couple of different forum threads but I wanted something a little more substantial. However like with everything else jeep does, there is always exceptions to the rule. I did see something about it depended on trim packages and tow packages prior to 92. Who knows. :roll: Oh, and mine was from a 89 and not an 87. I'll fix that. :cheers: I'm supposed to go over tomorrow and help finish off his front suspension. He's a little confused about the "puzzle pieces" making up the sway bar discos and the track bar heim joint bolt and bushings, and couldn't get the axle lined up with the lca bushings. When there I will compare the joints visually side by side. One thing I have heard about Jeeps is that every rule has exceptions and you can never be sure about what part you have without looking at it.

A buddy of mine took an auto body shop course, and more and more often they glue patch panels in instead of welding. As a demonstration the teacher took two identical pieces of sheet metal, with the same square hole stamped out, and cut two identical fill pieces. One he welded in, one he glued in. The next day (so the glue would have fully cured) he hooked each "fixed body panel" up to a frame straightener. The welded one ripped on the welds. The glued one eventually ripped the original sheet metal (not the patch piece), but not anywhere near the glue seems. Welders are nice, but if you can find out what kind of glue they use...

A gear vendors over/underdrive might apply as well, but they are a bit pricey at $2800.

On the way to pick up my new front shocks this morning I filled up for $2.79 in Canton (Ohio). The one down the street from my house is stil at $2.89. 5 miles south they are still at $2.99.

Got my new shocks. They are 24 5/8" fully extended. That should be about one inch shorter than perfect, but it'll work. On the way back home on the freeway, however, something started rattling under the hood all of a sudden. Turned on the hazard flashers, shifted to neutral and coasted off the road. As soon as I shifted to neutral the rattle slowed down with engine speed, so I shut her down. When I popped the hood I didn;t notice anything. Looked underneath and everything looked good, so I started it up. Rattle is back. Go to investigate the rattle and found most of the serpentine belt had shredded, with the pieces stuck around around the fan flapping around. Cut off the pieces around the fan, and made it home on what was left. Just now when I closed the hood I also noticed there's about an inch missing off the top ds corner of the fan shroud.

Spent an hour browsing Autozone's shock catalog. I think Gabriel #81440 will work. They have a stud mount on top close to stock length, are 24.6" long fully extended, and have a 5/8" eye bushing on the bottom. I will have to switch the mounting tab out from the old ones. $14.99 each, lifetime warranty. They are meant for a passenger car, though. I hope they are not too soft. Other options are Skyacker from Summit Racing for $39.95, or buy an adapter to convert the stud mount to an eye bushing mount on top. I believe I have seen them at Dover Brake just down the road from here. That would open a whole bunch of shocks for eligibility. So tomorrow I will drive up to Canton to get my shocks. Local store didn't have them in stock, and if ordered would not arrive until Tuesday. The 2 next closest stores do have them.

My buddy's 90 XJ has a 242, but I think they are the same U joints as my 87 MJ with the 231.

Even the gas tank is different? You'll need the sender unit as the one for the V6 doesn't have a way to mount an in-tank fuel pump to it.

Hey, we got another cacher in our midst. http://img.geocaching.com/stats/img.aspx?&uid=01a3223f-d391-4bea-a14c-6ba631260b82 Hmmm, direct link to the image doesn't work. Maybe the forum software doesn't support PNG images?

Clinton, the heart of Huron County. It's where highway 4 and 8 cross, about an hour north of London.

I did most of my growing up and learned how to drive in Ontario. Highways are paved, but all the hundreds of county and township roads are gravel. I fondly remember the dust trail, the sliding through turns and the sideways travel as you push the limit. I also remember the back of the car being solid grey with dust to where the tail lights were not visible and you couldn't see out the rear window. Actual dirt roads I have seen in northern Ontario, and when I first moved here in Ohio. You had to be VERY careful in my Olds 98 because if you dropped a tire in the wrong washout you'd be stuck sitting on the frame. Some fun mud holes on the road too, at least in my Suburban. Had to be careful in my Ford, though, as the distributor sat on the front of the engine. Bad design as it was easy to get it wet. The last one of those here in Ohio got redone last year. Now a smooth gravel road.

I'm okay with the house so far. Bought it for $65k three years ago, owe <$50K. But my job is not a stable any more as it once was. May possibly have to go looking. Or maybe just ride it out to the end. Either way, I just got my quarterly statement for my retirement and over the past 3 months it lost more than $8k in value. @%&* stock market! I'm liking the current gas prices, though.

I can't remember if they are off certain year Comanches/Cherokees, or if it was off something else, but there are stock type sway bar links that are a little longer. They may or may not work with 3" of lift, but definitely not with 5. The stock ones (7.25" long I believe) will not work with 3" of lift. My buddy's XJ came like that, and 1 link had busted, the other bent. That may be why yours are missing. With 5" of lift (3" plus spacers) I would get quick disconnects. Motion Offroad sells them for not much more than 2 new links from a parts store would cost (especially in Canada), or you can make your own. I think there's a write-up somewhere.

Everything means EVERYTHING, including transmission and if 4wd transfer case. Possibly drive shaft(s) as well. Easiest would be to find a donor Cherokee, and move everything over except the rear drive shaft. If you have a 2wd, this might be a good time to convert to 4wd at the same time.

One reason Ford 9" are popular with racers is that the entire center section can be unbolted (it's called a third member) and another one, complete with gears can be bolted in. So you can have a bunch of third members, each set up with different gears, and just bolt in the one needed for the track. Each NASCAR track specifies it's own gear ratio that has to be used. That, and they are relatively strong. Pretty strong enough to handle 8 miles at 200 mph. A Dana 70, and even a 60 would add too much weight in return for unneeded strength. There is such a thing as overkill.

I opened it in a new window just in case. Left clicked on the icon in the task bar, hit close and I was done. 5 seconds.

$2.95 gas, $3.65 diesel

You do know you didn't have to get a new assembly, right? The pumps are different, but both size pumps will bolt to the same assembly.

Do they have the tab with the "pin" and screw hole to screw to the frame?

Come spring part of my income tax return will put an Aussie in my D30.

$2.99 Might be time to put 40+ gallons in the Suburban. It's been running on fumes for a while.

Okay, I've been told YJ front brake hoses are 3" longer than MJ/XJ ones. My research tells me 87 through 95 Wranglers were YJs. Now here's the problem: there are different parts listed for 87-89 and 90-95. So which ones do I get? Or do I go by the year of my truck because it's due to the same hub changeover that happened on the Comanches and Cherokees?

You didn't replace the plug wires?