mvusse

I'm bringing a portable (camp) grill, as well as my camp stove.

Thanks. Put my bid in on Ebay. 1" wheel spacers to help keep rear tires off the inside of wheel well under full flex.

Do 2001 Wranglers have the same bolt pattern as our Comanches?

Less than 2 weeks. Still no skid under the gas tank, but with the tank 2 1/2" higher off the ground I won't have to worry quite as much. My buddy just told me he ordered rocker guards for his XJ. Oh, and his fiancee has to JUMP to get into it :D

My dog would catch one, "play" with it until it quit moving, then bring it to me (black lab, bird dog). Then it'd be off to catch the next one. Anything other than a bird he'd eat when play time is over.

I find if there's not a big age difference, the younger ones can stand their ground quite well. Congrats!

I just put 35 gallons in the Suburban at $2.69. Ninety five freaking dollars! But I figured I'd better do it before prices go back up.

DOH! After 45 minutes I realized I didn't disconnect the sway bar. Isn't that one of the reasons I got the quick disconnects? So back to the shop and try again. 24", about the same as before the lift. Notice the stuffed front tire has the spring almost completely compressed. I think the front could possibly flex a bit more if i had more weight on the back keeping my rear tire down. What is limited the rear flex is the stuffed tire being wedged up against the inside of the fender well. Wheels with a bit less backspacing would work a bit better, but then when flexing the opposite direction (with the track bar about flat) my ps front tire would probably hit the flare. Maybe tub the rear wheel wells a bit? :roll: 3/4" or 1" wheel spacers on the back are probably a better solution.

Well, here's a couple of shot of my buddy's XJ and my MJ. They're not exactly twins. Some pics of my truck with the lift kit on. And then I went to play with the fork lift to see how well it flexed. Not happy with this at all. I could lift the front wheel 16" off the ground before the rear wheel came up. Before the lift kit I got 24 1/2" if I remember correctly. The front tire isn't anywhere near stuffed. So I tried the rear tire, and I can only get 18" that way. Again, can't stuff the front tire. So I went home and start reading ComancheClub.

You will need a transmission as well. The 2wd transmission will not bolt up to a transfer case. And don't forget front driveshaft.

The back grommet should have a 2.6mm hole on the inside. That's about 1/8" diameter. It often gets clogged, and is almost always the cause of oil on the air filter. If yours is open (and you can blow air through it), then maybe there's a problem with the vacuum line hooked up to it? And your Jeep looks great. I myself like 4wd better, but with your tires, 2wd looks good. Has it been lowered any? It seems to sit a little lower to the ground than I'm used to seeing, especially in the front.

Blow by is common, but the oil leaking out of the valve cover gasket and out of the breather onto the air filter is usually caused by a clogged CCV orifice. Simple fix, only cost is a valve cover gasket, some good solvent (like gasoline) and some time.

X2, if you have the time to do something like that.

I agree right now is the time to put money in. Too bad i don't have money to put in. The company owes me about $5000 in retirement and I reminded him now's a good time to pay it, but again, the money ain't there. Can't deposit what you don't have.

Got my buddy's XJ on the road today (sorry, no pics). Man do those RE 5.5" springs ride stiff, even a 1 ton truck rides softer than this. Also got his power seats working. One pin on a wiring harness underneath the carpet had completely rotted away. I spliced in a jumper wire across the harness and all is well. We messed with the radio wiring a bit, but I think there's a problem either with the speaker wiring inside the doors, or the speakers themselves. And he still has to put the front skid plate back on, but said he'd wait until after he had an alignment done.

My front shocks were bolted on with 5/16 bolts. Two were rust welded and snapped off, so now I got all new ones, also 5/16. 4 bolts, 8 washers, 4 nylon lock nuts. But in 21 years, they may have been replaced at least once before.

Metal brake lines in fixed lengths with the nuts already attached would cost less at any auto parts stores than the gas to drive to the JY. You just have to bend them yourself. If you want to cut them down to exact length you need, a small tubing cutter is like $5 and Lowe's has a $10 flare tool that will work for brake lines, available in the plumbing section, not the tool section. When I replaced a busted line that had been fixed by the PO by pinching it shut (so I had no rear brakes at all) I was limited on funds and replaced just that section. Afterwards I found the next section had also rotted through. Then when bleeding the brakes I blew out the next section. I then found one wheel cylinder was shot and the self adjuster parts had been turned into rust dust on the other wheel. I now have new hard lines all the way from the front distribution block (under the master cylinder) all the way back to both rear wheels. A new wheel cylinder and new self adjuster mechanisms. Bad thing is, between 7 trips to Advance, 8 miles away, I probably spent more money in gas than I did on parts. 112 miles to and from the parts store!

Never seen that. I have seen electric/hydraulic trailer brakes, and the GMC C6500 box truck at work has an electric/hydraulic parking brake. That parking brake is a piece of crap, though. BTW, anyone want to buy a 24' box truck from Ohio? $8K takes it.

Video worked for me. That's the best sounding 4 banger I ever heard. Very much NOT like the angry mosquitoes that those high school kids make their Civics sound like.

I coated the sender unit cover (circular disk that mounts to the tank) with seal all inside and out after it rusted a pin hole through the flat part of it. So far so good. I bought it at Kmart when I just happened to bump into it. I believe they had it with the camping gear.

Same here. I *should* raplace my front brake hoses, but with the clips disconnected off the frame the old ones still work, although just barely at full droop. Headed over to help my buddy get his Cherokee done today. After he bought it he drove it for 2 days and it's been in the garage ever since. The plan is to get it back on the road today, and then piddle around with other stuff, like getting his power seats working so his fiancee would be able to drive it (although she'd need a step stool to get into it).

Autozone and Advance loan out harmonic balancer pullers. Basically you pay purchase price for a deposit and get it refunded when you return it. They do that for a lot of tools most people won't need very often. Glad you got her fixed. You gonna join us at badlands in 2 weeks now? ;)

bump for updated list 4 posts up.

It does, but for throttle body injection is it timed to an interval. Let's say the computer works off .5 second intervals. It will allow the injector open for x ms for every .5 seconds, regardless of what position the crank is in. The actual length of time it is open in each interval depends on the throttle position, rpm and sensor input like O2 sensor, MAP or MAF sensor. Full throttle at max rpm it will be usually be open continuously. It doesn't matter what position the crank and cam are in, as each cylinder will suck in the air/fuel mixture on it's intake stroke, and all cylinders work off the same air fuel mixture. Multi port injection, where each cylinder has it's own injector pointed directly at the intake valve you have to make sure the injector is open only when the intake valve is open, so crank (actually, cam) position becomes an issue because you don't want to waste fuel by spraying it at the back of a closed valve.

Is the 2.5 not throttle body injected? If it is it doesn't need a crank position sensor to decide when to open the injector.