mvusse

9" may look nice in a mall parking lot. But any off camber trail would put you on your side.

Depends on what you're going to do with your truck. Plenty of people run 33s with the stock steering setup.

:popcorn:

Young? Darned whippersnappers have no respect for their elders nowadays. No respect I tell ya...

My Valuecraft one from Autozone ($4.99) has caused me 0 problems, after somebody told me to try filling through the upper radiator hose.

My apologies, as I didn't realize we were arguing :D As far as serious, I never am. :hijack: :cheers:

The 2.8 V6 does. The 2.5 I4 is throttle body injection, which some people mistake for a carb. But I have never heard of a carb heater. A lot of vehicles circulate coolant through the intake manifold, though, and in cold climates vehicles have engine block heaters. And with a cold intake, gasoline vapor condenses on the sides of the intake manifold. This is why chokes exist (more fuel/less air to make sure what's left of the mixture is still rich enough when it gets to the combustion chamber) and fuel injection systems meter more fuel before the engine reaches operating temp (and the O2 sensor starts working).

What temp thermostat did you buy? They are cheap. Can't hurt your wallet much ($3 or $4) to buy another one, 195 degree. Do NOT buy a failsafe one. They are an expensive gimmick that only causes problems, as once they hit 210 degrees (well within operating specs) the valve gets hooked by 2 little hooks that will prevent it from ever closing again.

28-inch, actually. A 215/75R15 is 27.7" in diameter, and a 225/75R15 is 28.3" in diameter. I hooked JeepCO up with a spreadsheet that calculates RPMs and road speeds for all the available gear ratios and for tire sizes from 205/75 up through (IIRC) 33", so he's been doing his homework. Hmmm. According to the manual, stock tire size on my 87 4x4 4.0/AW4 was 205/75R15. That theoretically comes out to 27.1". According to my GPS, my speedometer/odometer are off almost exactly 6.5% (measured over almost 400 miles, rounded to nearest 1/10 mile. I'm running 235/75R15, so that also works out to stock being 205. Manual also specifies MT package being 225/75R15.

In Ohio, pebbles kicked up from the road are considered "unforeseen circumstances", what used to be called an "act of God". Therefore nobody is responsible and your own insurance will cover it if you have comprehensive coverage. I have 0 deductible comprehensive, but don't know if the ins. co. would complain about fixing a wind shield they just paid for less than 2 weeks ago. Too many claims and they won't let me have my 0 deductible any more.

Assuming you're running an AW4, stock specs is 3.55 gears with 27" tires. To run the same RPMs with 4.88 gears would take 37" tires, and I don't think they will fit without major surgery on the fenders. And the few Comanches I've seen on 37s just look funny. The tires are too big for the truck. I'd go with 35" tires. You'd be running 5% higher rpms, look better and less cutting needed.

I think you might be okay. As added insurance, add an external oil cooler, but mount it some place other than in front of the radiator. And add some water wetter to the coolant for better heat transfer. If you run headers, get ceramic coated ones to move the exhaust heat out the tail pipe rather than into the engine compartment.

Could even be a bad U joint some where in the drive train. But I would start by inspecting the front suspension components. Look at them, feel them, try to move them by hand.

Cherokee and Comanche units are mirror image of each other. A Cherokee unit will not fit in a stock Comanche tank because it interferes with the edge of the "pan" inside the tank. It might work in an after market tank without the pan. The unit on my original 87 lwb 23.5 gallon tank had a longer arm on the float than a swb 2.5 from the junk yard, but they both fit the same and show the same fuel level. Also, on neither of these two trucks did the drive shaft or tank have to be removed to remove the sender unit. It will be a bit easier with the drive shaft out of the way, though.

:fs1: :headpop: :mad: :wall: :grrrr: :fs2: :( Yesterday on the way back from the grocery store an S10 with what sounded like a 350 and glass pack passed me at about 100mph bouncing off the rev limiter... ...and kicked a pebble up from the road and into my wind shield. Less than 50 miles on my new wind shield and I have a stone chip already!!!

Linky no worky. (The W and the D are reversed). http://www.ufwda.org/

The 3 wire sensors have a heater built in, so they can work sooner. The O2 sensor needs to be at least 600 degrees before it will work. It takes a while for the exhaust gas to heat it that much, but the 3 wire ones with a heater built in will hit it in less than a minute. The 1 wire ones are universal (and a lot cheaper), but work just as well. They just take a few minutes longer before they start.

You suck! I paid $1.48 on the way to Canada Thursday, at the cheapest gas station between here and my destination 350 miles away. Today on the way back it had gone up to $1.65. :fs1:

Didn't cost me a dime. Insurance paid for it. Actually, I pay for it every month in the premium for $0 deductible comprehensive. But since between my vehicles I seem to go through pretty moch a windshield every year, it's worth it. And then there's the kamikaze deer that seem to always try to cross in front of MY car/truck when they get spooked by gunfire. That will all start again Monday.

I get camber and caster confused too, but IIRC, that is camber. And camber is not adjustable. caster is adjustable by shimming the LCA brackets and toe in is adjustable in the tie rod. Again, I may have the terms caster and camber reversed.

I've been holding off, but now that it has arrived: Happy Thanksgiving! I'm leaving for Canada in 30 minutes (but will have internet access once there.)

I had my windshield replaced professionally last Monday, and the guy used polyurethane adhesive (after sanding off all the old dried out remains of butyl and rust) and primering the area first.

$1.66

:agree: 1 3/8" is way too much for 2" lift. If it is really off by that much you have other (track bar or track bar bracket) issues.

Salt doesn't come with snow. Salt comes from the stupid road department to try to make them a little more safe for people who shouldn't be allowed to drive in snow anyway because, well, they don't know how to drive in snow. And without salt, rust becomes almost a non-issue, so it doesn't come with snow either.