mvusse

Think Rabbit, but smaller.

Wonder what transmission that is. 4 speed stick behind a 4.0.

Put the transmission in 1-2 and drive it, see if it shifts into 2nd above 4000 rpm as it should.

These number are all highway, steady speed, mostly flat. I usually run with a cap on the short bed, quite often a cap on the long bed when it still had a bed. Mixed mileage is a lot lower. For the three Jeeps I currently own, mixed mileage results: 1987 I4 short bed, 21 mpg and still counting 1987 I6 long bed, 17 mpg until I moved to larger tires and spent more gas off road than on. 1996 I6 Cherokee, 19 mpg until it got larger tires, people started borrowing it and I gave it to my daughter. I'm surprised it got 2 mpg better than the MJ because it has a reflashed ECM and is extremely touchy on the throttle. On the stock tires it took me a few days to learn not to smoke the tires on take off, then with 31s and 4.10 gears it was even worse. For the short bed, winter highway mileage is a lot lower also due partly to winter gasoline, and in a large part due to the snow tires. This spring, after I went back to the all season tires I had to keep watching the speedometer because I kept speeding, being used to having the gas pedal at a certain height. The snow tires affect highway mileage noticeably, but doesn't seem to affect around town driving much. The cap probably helps aerodynamics on the highway, but the extra weight hurts around town.

That explains why I have that plug as well. My truck came without an auxiliary fan from the factory, I have since added one with a home made controller run off a sensor in a HO thermostat housing.

This is debatable. Where the non CAD axles have a single tube from the pumpkin to the passenger steering knuckle, the CAD axles have a tube from the pumpkin to the cast CAD housing, then another shorter one from the CAD housing to the steering knuckle, so two more joints. Some people say this is prone to bending, but never witnessed this myself. On the other hand, the CAD axle does have a nice strong cast upper control arm brackets. After grenading 3 CAD front axles (all with a single shaft conversion) I never had a problem with the passenger upper control arm bracket. One of these housings (with reinforced lower control arm brackets) now lives under my Cherokee with new gears and bearings. The one non disconnect housing that followed them, I ripped the sheetmetal upper control arm mount off the axle on its second trip off road. Mind you, that was with a locker and 35" tires. I have fixed that problem by moving up to a Dana 60 axle, all 1/4" steel aftermarket brackets (and 37" tires).

AAARGGHHHH!!!!! Hit a wrong key while typing (still don't know which one) and a two page andf growing reply disappeared. Short version: These numbers are all on "summerish" long (300 miles or longer) highway trips, verified over multiple trips except 75 mph on the 4 speed, which was one trip all turnpike to Chicago. These number are all 4wd, although the I4 short bed started out life as a 2wd truck, that lasted less than 2 weeks after I got it. As an aside, my (daujghter's) current Cherokee started out as 2wd and I have not been able to measure a definite change in fuel economy after the 4wd conversion before it moved up to 32" tires and 4.10 axles. With the AX4 at 75 mph I was revving around 3000 rpm, with the AX5, but still the AX4 3.55 axles I was only revving 2500-2600. My friend had not regeared, was also a Renix 4.0 and had the same automatic transmission and same axle ratio. But because of the larger tires he was revving lower than I was. His numbers were on a trip to Badlands Offroad Park (400 miles) with me following him. The long bed numbers are over multiple long highway trips (as well as shorter ones), quoite a few of 300 miles or more, but a few years old before I went to larger tires, larger tires yet again, regeared and even larger tires. It currently runs 37" tires on 4.10 gears, but when I temporarily ran 32" tires on 4.10 gears I noticed I have engine problems as mileage is only about half of what it should have been with that combination. Thinking O2 sensor, but would like to know what exactly the computer is doing before I throw parts at it. Don't drive it all that much on the street anymore anyway, so no big deal. The short bed numbers are over the past almost three years that it has been my main daily driver. Old numbers I have from one long trip in a 1994 (HO) 4.0/AX15 Cherokee, 3.07 gears a few years back was 22 mpg at 70 mph and 21 mpg at 60. The next owner started with a full tune-up, then did some changes under the hood for better fuel economy because he was driving Ohio to Maryland and back every two weeks. He didn't state what speed, but after he got done he claims 27 mpg to Maryland and 26 mpg back to Ohio two weeks later. Also 1996 Cherokee I have no consistent number between moving from 225/75R15 to 31x10.50 to 265/75R16, 3.55 axle ratio changed to 4.10, people borrowing it and not keeping the gas receipts and now my daughter who can't be bothered to keep a record of fill-ups. Yes, this is the short version of what I had mostly typed before.

1987 Comanche lwb, I6/AW4 3.55 gears, 235/75R15 tires. 24 mpg at 55-60 mph is the best I ever got. Cruising at 75 I got 17 while my buddy in his XJ on 31s got 19. 1987 Comanche swb, I4/AX5 3.55 gears, 235/75R15 tires. 27 mpg at 55-60 mph, 24 mpg at 75 mph. 1987 Comanche swb, I4/AX4 3.55 gears, 235/75R15 tires. 27 mpg at 55-60 mph, 19 mpg at 75 mph (same truck before I swapped in the AX5). Not a really good comparison because of auto versus manual. But even manual versus manual might not be a good comparison because the 6 cylinder transmissions have a much deeper overdrive gear than the AX5 does.

Remove the driveshaft and check the u joints. I think you will find one of them (usually the rear one) is bad. You cannot usually tell with the driveshaft installed unless it's been bad for so long the needle bearings have turned to dust and the trunnion is flopping around inside the cap.

Yes.

HP D30: All years YJ (but they are leaf sprung and of no use to us) All years MJ 1984-1999 XJ 2000-2001XJ is low pinion, as are all TJs and ZJs.

If you have access to a cherry picker or a fork lift you can slowly lift the driver side front wheel with the sway bar disconnected while watching the driveshaft.

I have found that to get the drag link and track bar parallel on lifted XJs and MJs, you usually need a pitman arm that drops less than stock. Opposite of a drop pitman arm. Conversely, you can use the stock pitman arm and get a drop track bar bracket.

I have an 87 4 cylinder, originally 4 speed 2wd. Converted it to 4wd soon after I got it (like a week). Kept record of my mileage cruising 75 mph down the turnpike from Cleveland to Chicago, got 19 mpg. Not too great for a 4 cylinder. So on the way back I stuck to 60 mph and got 27 mpg. This is with 3.55 gears, slightly larger than stock tires (235/75R15 while the door pillar ticker specifies 205/75R15), a top gear ratio of 1:1 and corrected for tire size. This was also when I realized it need a taller gear. So I picked up an AX5. First four gears are the same as the AX4, but it adds a 5th gear .85 ratio overdrive. Started ;looking for 4.10 ratio axles that the factory used with this transmission until I realized with 4.10 axles final drive ratio in 5th gear would be pretty much exactly the same as the 3.55 I have now in 4th. So I installed the AX5 and kept my 3.55 axles. 5th gear is gutless. Almost every uphill I have to downshift, wanting to accelerate and not take 3 minutes to do it I need to down shift, BUT, 60 mph is still 27 mpg and 75 mph I now get 24 mpg, from ~May through October. Winter mileage is lower because of winter gasoline as well as snow tires. The snow tires alone make a large enough impact that I can feel while driving. When I switch back to all seasons in the spring I invariably end up speeding until I check the speedometer because I'm so used to hold the gas pedal in a certain spot. Best highway mileage I have achieved in the winter is 22 mpg, but I have never had the patience to go 60 mph yet over a large distance in winter. Average mixed mileage I am hovering around 20 after three years or so, always 87 octane.

Not off hand, but could measure one when I get to the shop. Why are you asking?

LS swap sounds nice until you realize that the vast majority of people who put a V8 in either a Cherokee or Comanche end up battling cooling issues. The nose of our vehicles is not designed to flow enough air to cool a V8.

The new one better either be an automatic, or have a working parking brake. Or better yet, both.

Only in 1986 (Cherokees from 1984 through 1986), and yes, they are not very desirable.

Lifting your axle does not change the correct pinion angle. Going to a double cardan CV joint driveshaft, or changing the transfer case output shaft angle does.

You need the aftermarket 2" drop shackles for a Chevy. Be aware that this will change your pinion angle and thus might cause a driveline vibration; an add-a-leaf would be a better solution. Best would be a 3" lift pack from Hell Creek. Also since our trucks have a pretty good rake from the factory, it might look fine lifting just the front and leaving the back alone.

Anybody interested in one of Tim Cameron's buggies? http://nashville.craigslist.org/for/4150964015.html

Depending on how the spiders have been welded, he most likely will need a new carrier as well. Also, regearing one axle alone will cost $400 to $500. But if the frame "needs patched" it is rotted. This is a salvage truck only worth some money as a parts vehicle.

Rear ZJ springs will lower an MJ/XJ, 4.0 ZJ front springs don't do much of anything in a 4.0 XJ/MJ, a set of Moog V8 ZJ springs new in box lifted my 96 XJ 1" over where it sat, or 3/4" over factory specs.

And what cost? I never heard that. I do recall that expirement and other similar versions as the attempt a sport compact class in NHRA. The now decades old claim that hipo 4-bangers would lead to the abandonment of v8 pro-stock & other v8 drag cars was entirely wrong and the compact class using such engines died quickly. Right or wrong most every form of motor racing in America is still dominated by V8's. Don't know. But every part produced for that engine was given a GM part number so you can order it.