mvusse

Sounds like a great time to upgrade.

With a vacuum disconnect the outer shaft should slide right out, the inner shaft has a C clip. With a one piece shaft I believe it should slide right out also, but have not verified this personally.

I just replaced a motor mount on my 87 4.0 last Saturday. $19.99 from Advance Auto Parts. http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/partlist_Engine-Mount_27_R|GRPENGPAMS__engine%20mount___ It shows 4 different ones, depending on right/left, 2wd/4wd. But if you look closer you will see they are all the same part number, so it makes no difference.

hey now! how'd you read my mind while i was typing? Great minds think alike?

80s/early 90s VW Jetta TDI comes to mind. 55mpg, not too common in the States. Only draw back is a top speed of only 70-75mph. how opposed are you to an 80s Mercedes Benz 300TD?

There is no compact or mid size truck in existence that can fit a 4x8 sheet between the wheel wells. Only full size pick ups can do that. Comanches are comparable in size to Chevy S10 and the old Dodge Dakota trucks. The newer Dakotas are larger.

Those are completely stock leaf packs, so I agree that you should leave them alone and not take the overload leaf out. Those shackles look about the same length as mine. Going back to stock shackles should drop you down an inch to an inch and a half. Depending on what perches you will use, SOA will move you up about 5.5" from where it is at now, or 4" to 4.5" if you move to stock shackles in the process.

Finished bleeding the brakes after replacing a line earlier this week, adjusted the rear brakes, checked all fluids, removed front skid plate and started packing it up for having some fun this weekend.

Umm, you might want to zip tie that lever horizontal, so you at least have *some* rear brakes.

The link between the two half shafts supposedly makes a weak point, but you can swap in a single piece shaft. The housing should be stronger as it is braced around the disco.

Piper PA-24 Comanche

I have not looked at it, but it sounds like the same type of circuit breaker a lot of cars use for the headlights. Sgotta be available in parts stores. But that is pure speculation at this point.

:agree: My 87 MJ has a D35 with the threaded plug. My buddy's 90 XJ has a D35 with the rubber plug. My 94 XJ has an 8.25 with a rubber plug.

http://www.jeepskool.com/board/index.php runs phpBB, and it supports embedded Youtube video using the tags.

Definitely truss the new axle. Maybe figure out how to do a dual (or triple) shock set up?

I got 9", but the "stock" leafs I used have evidently been re-arched at some point in time and sit 2" higher than normal. 5.5" from from thickness of spring pack/axle tube/new perch, and 1.5" from the lift shackles that are going to disappear as soon as I get my stock shackles back from my buddy.

Anything could be possible, depending on how much fabrication you're willing to do. But an XJ rear bumper will not fit on an MJ without a lot of work. Also XJ rear wheel well and MJ rear wheel well are different, making the rear flares not interchangeable.

I remove the air box for easy access and use a ratcheting wrench. Use your hand to keep the shock itself from turning, or a pipe wrench if it's really rusted.

The FSM covers caster angle. Doesn't specify lift or no lift. Test drive rode fine, tracked straight, no drive line vide and no DW, so I'm happy with it.

Toe in is back to 0, steering wheel is almost centered (need some fine tuning), and axle is centered. According to FSM, pinion angle overrides caster, but I decided to split the difference. Using spacers to drop the skid plate down sounds like a good idea.

As long as you keep on fighting I wish you all luck on winning this battle. Hang in there!

Yeah, my ds engine mount had fallen apart. No rubber left whatsoever.

Crud! I was hoping someone could come up with some obvious answer that I missed and could be done inexpensively. Guess the skid's coming off. Not that it protects anything any more, as everything is below it now.

The picture links to the site.

Well, I added the 1.75" coil spacers and the .5" factory insulator to my 4.5" lift coils. Now the drag link hits on the front skid plate... How do I solve this other than by removing the skid?