mvusse

SYE is not needed for SOA conversion on an MJ, I still run stock steering at 6.25" front lift and 33x12.50s, as well as (adjustable) short arms. Does it ride like a cadillac? No, but it still rides smoother than my stock XJ with stiff shocks. Flex is limited by shocks. I can pick any one wheel up 36+" before another one lifts. Gotta be careful doing that, though, because despite the wide tires, low backspacing and spacers in the rear it gets tippy when flexed that high.

The Clayton kit also uses Y-links.

pull-a-part, about $95.

I'm talking 10 minutes putting new wheels on (15/16" diameter) and 10 minutes cutting with an actual little dremel. I did have access to a little 3" air grinder, but it would have taken me longer to go get it than it took me to cut.

I figured the sawzall would bend the steel, and my angle grinder doesn't like going around corners. I did use a cut off wheel. 27 of them to be exact. Total cost would be around $5, and I still have 9 more left; about 20 minutes work, 10 of which was replacing wheels on the dremel.

Bought a pack of 36 cut off discs for the dremel. 25 discs later the Pig looks like this: No more clearance issues with the fender. I also adjusted the pinch seam in the back of the wheel well with a BFH. The only problem now is the bump underneath the air cleaner and battery tray. Limit my turning when a wheel is stuffed.

Could be brakes too, if you're real close to the metal tab that lets you know it's time to replace the pads.

:???: $29.99 ain't free.

Just to rule out the obvious, you did check the transmission fluid level, right?

In the end, Pete, this is still your site. Your personal choice out votes all the users.

I think you still may want to go the the transmission shop. I don't know much about automatic transmissions, but it sounds like reverse is going out. Either a rebuild or a replacement. Let's hope I'm wrong and it's something simple.

Jeepskool has a map on "platial". Might be an idea to do that for CC...

Mine aren't either, not were 89eliminator's before he went long arms. Problem is the wheel swings forward as it travels up. Gotta keep it out of the front of the fenders under flex...

And scrap the transfer case drop kit. It is not needed for a Comanche, even at 7" of lift. It makes the front drive shaft angles worse, it lowers your ground clearance, and weakens the attachment between the cross member and the frame. For a Cherokee with rear drive shaft issues it is a short term solution until the problem can be fixed the correct way. Sway bar drop brackets will work, but if you wheel it you will want disconnects anyway, which will make the drop brackets not needed.

A d44 should be just fine, even if you lock it.

They come in different weights. I buy mine on Walmart. 5000ct of .20 gram pellets, and divide it in fourths. Should be almost 9oz., which is close enough. I have also bough a 6500ct of .12g when they were out of the .20. Divided that one into thirds, which was just barely above 9oz.

Scratch the drop pitman arm. My bolts started pulling through the frame without it. A drop pitman arm would give it more leverage to put even more stress on it. Plus Comanches are not leaf sprung up front, so a horizontal drag link is not nearly as important. On top of that, a drop pitman arm with throw the drag link out of alignment with the track bar, causing bump steer.

Yes, lift parts are the same for 2wd and 4wd.

Here's a dirty little secret: Chrysler's PT cruiser and Chevy's HHR are designed by the same person. But that would be kind of obvious just by looking at it. I myself don't mind the HHR, but do believe the Aztek is ugly. The rear looks funny, the front looks upside down. They have now bested it with their new minivan that has the front of an SUV. The Uplander of something like that.

Allright, so we can leave the original thread for the originally intended topic, here you can all bicker about whether a usually loaded topic, but in this case quite calm, collected and thought out discussion should be allowed in this here pub. I myself say let it be as long as it does not become a flame fest.

We are having a healthy adult discussion here. I say we continue the discussion as long as it stays on topic (or gets back on topic). People who don't want to read this should just quit reading it. Eagle: yes, you are a moderator, but there are two other mods as well, Pete and Qui Gon. Pete seems to not have a problem reading this topic, so why not leave this one for him to worry about?

But it is also possible your issues come not from the above mentioned problem, but rather a bad or missing ground.

Those conversion kits probably also use diodes. That's the easiest way to do it without creating a short. The only other way is to create a logic circuit.

This is the off topic section. this section is for anything not MJ.

Maybe if you use proper spelling and punctuation we can figure out what you're trying to say.