mvusse

I imagine you have a D30 front, not 35. The D30 was the only front axle available. Ford Exploders use D35 front axles. Also, you can't link images on your own computer, and this site doesn't host images, so you'll have to host them off site (Photobucket, flicker, etc.) to be able to post them. 2" shackles will not lift a Comanche 2". And an 86 needs extensive front end modification (and possibly a firewall massage with a BFH) to be able to fit a 4.0 block. That includes 4.5-5.0 strokers. And lastly: Welcome to the addiction! There's no turning back now.

Here's what I (think I) know: 87 through 90 clusters are all compatible. All 87 (with or without tach) had the old font, 88 through 90 without tach all had the old font, 88 through 90 with tach had the new font. I currently have a full cluster with the new font in my 87 just because I liked having a tach (it already had all other gauges) and I though the humongous fuel gauge was tacky. But I would prefer the old font, as I found I don't like the new speedo. miles are ticked ever 2.5 miles, whereas with the old font every mile is ticked. The holy grail would be a full gauge old font 120mph cluster. Does that even exist?

Moving the track bar left or right moves your axle sideways, but won't fix DW unless the original hole was wallowed out. My money is still on the upper end of the track bar, Either the mount being loose or hole wallowed out, or loose bolts holding the bracket to the frame. But i can't remember if you rotated your tires front to rear yet to rule out a tire problem? Also I have driven my truck with anywhere from -0.5 to +7.5 degrees caster without DW. -0.5 gave me a much better drive shaft angle, but was extremely squirrelly on the freeway. I currently sit at around 4 degrees to get some road manners back.

I don't follow. How did you change the track bar location?

Option 2, but "have been going to" fix it for more than two years now. My 94 XJ is the same.

I used to be a VW guy, and my parents have had a bunch of them (Jettas and Passats) over the years back in Europe. BUT VW isn't what it used to be. Their cars are lots of fun to drive, until something breaks. And sometimes it's a stupid little part that nobody has and needs to be shipped from Europe (a friend of mine bought an old S10 beater to drive while his Passat currently is and has been parked for 3 months waiting on a part). Another friend of mine bought a new Jetta that the automatic transmission went out after 6 months. They also have mechanical problems with engines. I will endorse both Honda and Toyota if you can live with the car still going strong long after the body has rotted away. Some GMs are also good, but Cobalts -as fun as they are- have front suspension problems. Malibus may have the same.

That's a bit over half what I was thinking, but I assumed they made them from scratch.

And a 4" longer shackle on a 60" long spring makes how much of a difference? Like I said, year and a half with no ill effects that I have been able to tell. And I spend a lot of time under my truck due to more than monthly wheeling.

I don't see/understand the physics behind your claim. HOW do longer shackles kill springs, and why have I not had that problem even though I've had longer shackles for a year and a half now?

I'm tentatively planning on going to the Akron, OH Pull-a-Part as I pretty much cleaned the Canton one out of door mirrors and I busted both again last weekend. Bonus is they have an 89 Comanche listed in the yard. If I can get under it with the snow I will measure the shaft on it. I also need to find a way to make my mirrors tree proof, but that's for another topic.

SUVs have a higher center of gravity, and so will roll over easier. People drive them like they drive cars->bad thing waiting to happen. Safety is also relevant, Large SUVs, like my old Suburban are safer for the occupant, but more dangerous for whatever hits it. Assuming I'm driving a 6000 pound Suburban traveling at 35mph, and a 3000 pound car hits head on, also doing 35mph. Which vehicles occupants are likely to be hurt worse and experience higher g forces? A lot of the force is absorbed by the metal crumpling up, but momentum stays the same. After the crash, the mass that was two vehicles is not moving 12mph in the direction the Suburban was. Suburban slowed by 23 mph, car slowed by 47 mph (now travelling backwards) in the same amount of time. Add to that more room around the occupants of the Suburban and stronger construction to handle the vehicle's lafger weight. I miss my Suburban. I do not miss it's gas mileage.

I have 12" in my yard, we had about 10" where I went wheeling Saturday and Sunday. And we're supposed to get 4-7" more tomorrow. I'm ready for summer!

I'm running my stock 87 HP D30. Vac disco delete and 5-760x u joints. Very impressed with those joints.

I've had an itch for a few months now, and finally got to scratch it. In the process I busted a bracket holding the DS mirror on, ripped off the PS mirror, lost my muffler, tore the breather hose off the front diff (sure it's full of water again :fs1: ) and on the way home the alternator went out.

35x12.50. Did awesome in the snow. They just dig through until they get traction on whatever is under it. Did beat on the Jeep a bit harder than I should have, though, getting both the front and rear axle hopping numerous times. Scuffed up the side lugs on all four tires pretty good. Surprised all my shafts and u joints survived.

Looks like an antique version of CORR.

After extensive cutting I still have to bump stop running 35s. I imagine you'll have to bump stop extremely aggressively with those. Looks great, though.

This is the response I got on Jeepskool: ...that would be me, and yea sorry forgot all about meetin up.... With a location of Lodi, OH.

With the inverted Y steering setup out Jeeps have, lift crates toe-in. Depending on what source, toe in should either be 0, or 1/16 to 1/8". I never thought about it and never worried about it. I added 1.75" spacer blocks, and all was fine. Then when I added 4.5" springs to the spacer blocks I had DW at speeds as low as 25mph. Severe enough to fry my alternator bearings. When I took my tape measure out I found I had a full 2 (TWO!) inches of toe in. But because the nose of the Comanche gets narrower toward the front it was not obvious to the naked eye. Set my toe to 0 and all was well again.

The problem east of me (Eastern PA, DC, VA) was that they don't either.

Ice just made for more fun If not for the tree, this could have been a lot worse He tweaked the a pillar a bit and cracked his windshield.

Didn't get as much as DC, but it made for extra fun offroad anyway. But a 75 minute drive to get there turned into 150 minutes this morning :(

So who has the 4.0 litre yellow Comanche with Ohio plates that was at Jeepskool today? I never did get the chance to meet you, although I did find your truck with the hood up at the pavillion.

We're supposed to get 7-13" by morning. And I'm going to be the nut driving in it for 75 miles to get to JeepSkool for a weekend of playing.

And if it isn't DW, I believe it is almost always a badly out of balance or out of round tire.