mvusse

Sounds like you need ball joints. And they may well be the cause.

I have personally seen (and heard) a D35 shaft snap. But the owner was asking for it. He was in a Cherokee, climbing a steep obstacle. When he lost traction near the top it started bouncing. Rather than let off and try again he stayed on the gas with almost all of the weight on the rear axle. And yes, that probably would have broken a shaft in a stronger axle as well.

I can drive just fine with my sway bar completely disconnected or removed. I had to remove it for a frame repair, and waited a few weeks to put it back on because I couldn't be bothered.

I'm looking to swap in my 8.25 soon (also has 1" longer snout like the D44), I would like to re-use my original 2wd D35 DS in the meantime, before I install the t-case and AX-15. I want to avoid cutting down the shaft 1" as it will be a temporary setup. By 1.5" out, do you mean as measured from the base of the ears to the trans seal? Do you know the travel distance in of the yoke at full suspension compression? I do plan to swap in 4wd leafs (with longer 4wd bump stops) in place of the original 2wd, I figure that would help a little no? No, I mean from the seal to the end of the splines. I don't think 4wd springs will make a noticeable difference.

I ran 1.75" spacers (basically a 2" lift) and shock extensions with the stock links without a problem. A buddy's XJ wih a 3" lift (springs, LCAs, track bar and shocks) broke one link and badly bent another one.

It's possible his current drive shaft would still work. I have seen some factory set ups (MJ and XJ) with the yoke fully 1.5" out of the transfer case. Never looked at a 2wd, though. A quick look at the slip yoke will tell if the current shaft will work or not.

I would start with someone moving the steering wheel back and forth while you are under your truck watching the track bar to see if their is play where either end mounts. If not, my next guess would be worn out bushings in the lower control arms. But it could also be alignment (you're guaranteed to have tor-in if you have just lifted your truck), bad ball joints, problems with the tires (out of round, out of balance, broken belts) or a combination of factors. Every case of DW is different.

The probably stock because they were rusted all to hell and broke when I tried to remove them sway bar links on my 94 XJ were the exact same length as the probably stock because they were rusted all to hell and broke when I tried to remove them ones on my 87 MJ.

Replaced wheel stud. For real this time. Truck is finally all fixed again, for now.

Removed a bad wheels stud. Replacement was the wrong size, though :(

2 posts back: That's pretty good for a 2" lift. I can see the spacers in the front, AAL out back?

There is no sheet metal contact (I did some more cutting), and I hammered the pinch seem in the back of the front wheel wells flat. But at full flex I can't steer as the tire is contacting the wheel well and shock tower. So yes, I do need to bump stop. But until then, there's nothing sharp for the to touch. Up until now I held the firm belief that bump stops were an unnecessary evil. Also need bumpers and better brakes. Another set of rims to mount my street tires on so I don't wear out my play tires on the pavement. And a rear locker :brows:

With 1.75" spacers and stock springs, 31s look about perfect. If you think it's a PITA doing this with stock springs, try it with 4.5" lift springs some time. Neither the upper control arms nor the track bar will let the axle down far enough. All three need to be disconnected.

By Wade's request. And anyone else can add their's. I looped a ratchet strap over the tire and under the forks just in case, but left it a bit loose. Still a lot ore stable than it looks; I shouldn't have worried.

Current: 1987 Pioneer 4.0/AW4 4wd long bed. Production date November 1986 BLACK interior with all vinyl buckets. Full gauges minus tach NO AC D35 rear axle All chrome trim on front chrome mirrors black rear bumper

BAH! I've had it with snow and the cold. I'm ready for summer.

Actually had it on the lift earlier tonight, but no camera. Will take a pic tomorrow as I have to pull it into the shop again anyway to replace a bad wheel stud that I've been driving with since last Augusts or so. I did measure 34" underneath the wheel I picked up.

Yup! Last post on page 93 (two pages back). Out of balance wheel set it off (Clump of muddy ice inside of tire), out of grease track bar axle end, worn out heim track bar frame end, loose track bar frame bracket bolts and loose steering box bolts allowed it to happen. She handles better and tighter than it ever has since I got it two years ago. Despite 9.5" more ground clearance.

I run Fedora Core. Started out with Red Hat years ago. Ran OS/2 before that.

Oil change, check and top off all other fluids (except gas. Low fuel light is on :grin: ) I then cut my front fenders some more, and trimmed some off the lower ends of the rear fender flares. Fully stuffed the rear tires will rub slightly on the inside plastic, but removing that will expose (sharp) sheet metal. Front tires are okay as long as I go straight. Slight rubbing on the shock towers, but no biggie. Turning, however will be problematic as the wheel well itself is in the way pretty much everywhere. Going to have to bumpstop :(

33s with a 2" lift will hit the fenders when steering. The 2" lift will give you enough room above the tire, but does not take the tire far enough out of the fender to give enough space in front or behind it. Even at 4.5" I could choose between either hitting the front of the fender or the rear of the fender, but could not clear both. I run 6.25" (4.5" springs, 1.75" spacers) now and that was enough, with proper bumpstopping. But I chose to cut the fenders instead of limiting flex. My 33s where 12.50 wide. 11.50 or 10.50 may work better, especially if the 10.50s are on stock wheels.

You're looking at SOA rear/6.5" front. Rear would be relatively inexpensive. But the front won't be. There is not way to cheaply fit 33" rubber under the front.

Yeah, there's no mechanical transmission at all in there. Just a huge hydraulic pump running everything, including left and right hydraulic motors with a chain drive going to the wheels.

I am assuming you checked the fluid level? I don't think a fluid change can make it any worse than it already is. But you'd have to take it to a shop where they can tap into the cooling lines and replace ALL of it. Dropping the pan will only get about half the fluid. There's more in the valve body and torque converter that won't drain that way. Might be time to get a junk yard replacement, though.

Nope. Next purchase is some steel to make a rear bumper. Something along the lines of the JCR rear bumper should net me 4" more ground clearance out back, but wrapping around the sides toward the wheels after cutting the bottom part off the bed sides. No more mini truck-like bumper dragging :D