mvusse

The suspension mounts are different also. The ZJ uses a 4 link with panhard bar, I believe the WJ uses a triangulated 3 link but I still have to crawl under one to see for sure.

When I bought mine it came with 235/75R15 tires on stock 15x7 rims. The first set of new tires I bought for it (which I run on Booger right now) were the same size, and on both of them they rub (but just barely) on the lower control arms under full lock steering.

how would u check for a vacuum leak? spray something flammable around you vacume lines . if the idle changes you have a leak i thinkthat auto 4.0 mjs came with 3:55 gears. but remember its just a thought many many auto 4.0's are 3.07, including my big ton. Its great for gas mileage in stock form, if you keep your foot out of it. I get 17-18 around town. 31" tires and 3.07 gears is a pretty big factor, that gear ratio is now closer to 2.07:1 than 3.07. The factory used 3.55 gears for 4.0/auto. 3.07 was used for 4.0/5 speed stick. My 87 with 130,000+ neglected miles got 24mpg cruising at 60mph after a full tune up on stock tires. 20mpg going 70. 33x12.50 road tires I got 18mpg cruising ~75-80 (CBs are great to get Smokey reports from trucks....). All these numbers have been corrected for odometer being off and double checked by GPS. Now with my 35x12.50 soft rubber MTs mileage is down the drain. 16mpg at best, but mixed driving closer to 12 (stock tires was 17).

I don't think I'll need a truss with 3" diameter 1/2" wall tubes. My MJ only weighs in at a tad over 3500 pounds. The axle I'm planning to use comes from a 6000 pound truck. Plus, that truss doesn't look too terribly expensive at $170. Until you add the $320 for the brackets I need. That's almost $500, which is the upper limit of what I plan to have invested total in the axle, including purchase price, build, brackets AND install.

As far as gear strength, I run a locked high pinion 30 with 35s on stock shafts with 760 u joints. I'm not worried about gear strength either, as the weak parts are the axle shafts ears and unit bearings. They are the only things I have issues with. But I figured if I swap axles to get rid of the unit bearings I might as well get a high pinion as the cost will be the same to me.

I myself am kind of planning that, but going to try Chevy flat top outers with Ford brakes/rotors for 5 on 5.5 wheels using Waggy inner shafts, don't know about outer shafts yet. Using Ballistic Fab brackets for the suspension.

There still good ones around, but they are few and far between. When my parents were stranded with a dead alternator over 1000 miles from home on vacation a few weeks back they called CAA for a tow truck. Ended up having it towed to the garage the truck was based out off in a tiny little town in New Brunswick somewhere, waited an hour for an alternator to arrive from a nearby town large enough to have one in stock at a parts store, and were on their way less than 4 hours after the call to CAA and having spent only $360 CDN to have a bad alternator replaced on a 3/4 ton weekender van. That included labor AND parts. PS Sorry for the hijack.

Be aware that is a low pinion D44. Gears are no stronger than a high pinion D30. Also 82 through 84 and some 85 had a troublesome vacuum disconnect in the diff. If you want a high pinion 44 you are stuck with an aftermarket axle, or Ford parts.

Would not recommend the RE kit, or the axle?

He has a custom intake because no matter what the did to it a 99 intake could not be made to flow the amount of air needed. I think there's a picture on the stroker forum somewhere. And IIRC he uses a custom Hesco head made specifically for him.

I can't see your eye bushings lasting very long like that.

Thanks for the in-depth information, although your first link does not seem to work for me. I think I will pass on the 2000 and go with a 91-96 or possibly 97 to keep things simple, then.

Most 30s are 9.50 wide. They are a tad taller and wider than a 235/75R15 (29x9.25), which will (barely) rub the control arms on stock rims during full lock steering. Shouldn't touch the wheel wells, tough.

I know, this is an MJ site, but since the XJ and MJ are closely related I'm hoping someone here knows the answer. Will a 2000 XJ AW4 work in a 1996 XJ, or are the computer controls different?

I myself had been wanting a bolt on SOA kit, but it is cheaper to buy perches and shock mounts (got mine from Ruffstuff Specialties and been very happy with them), bolt everything together under your truck, buy a buddy with a welder a six pack to tack them on and them take it to a welding shop to have them burned on permanently. You can even leave the stock SUA perches in place so you can go back at a later time.

Most auto parts stores will test your alternator for free. Can't hurt to remove it and have it tested.

As I have told you or Pete before, Jeepskool.com runs the same software, although quite possibly a different version. And they do have embedability of Youtube videos. So there has to be a way to get it done. If you create an acount there you can pm "TJ", who runs the site to ask him how he did it. Lots of edits: speling.

My ex wife left me for a truck driver. Married him, separated, now lives 3 housed over so my 13 year old can walk back and forth. But I got my first Jeep (a Comanche) after she left me. My kids told me her and her new husband laughed at me for driving a rusty Jeep with holes in it. Now it's lifted and locked,rides on 35s and my 13 year old loves wheeling it (I usually ride shotgun off road), and parked beside it in the driveway are two Cherokees. No more Ford F100, no more Geo Prizm and no more Chevy Suburban (although I still miss that one). But between working on the house and maintaining 3 Jeeps, one of which is 23 years old and goes off road pretty much every month, I really have no time or money left for a girlfriend. Probably a good thing, as I'm never getting married again anyway.

I have repeatedly been amazed by the 5-760x joints. I have abused them to no end, and have not had one fail yet. They are also very well sealed. Probably 100+ hours submerged in water and they still have clean grease inside. Every other u joint (drive shafts) have had to be regreased or replaced because of going dry more than once. Grease probably washed out by water. This includes Duralast, Duralast Gold, Neapco and Neapco Brute Force, some of which were greasable, some of which were supposedly sealed.

Running ~7-8" lift in the rear including Chevy drop shackles. I run an axle with a 1" longer nose than the stock one, use a YJ yoke, which is 0.75" longer than the Comanche one, and still the yoke was 1" farther out than it used to be. Don't know about 3.5", though.

Is that law nation wide or just in OH? I've towed numerous vehicles that didnt have any tags at all. Never been ticketed for. (don't know anybody who has) I've always thought since tha dolly itself has lic tags you were good to go. :thumbsup: At least Ohio, probably some other states as well. To be sure, check your state's code.

The driver side will slide right out. The passenger side outer part will also, but the intermediate shaft from the diff to the CAD may have a C clip depending on year. But that shaft does not need pulled to replace the joints.

If he gets alloys (and stays on 32s) with full cirle clips, he doesn't need to load his vehicle down with more weight with spares. Lighter vehicles break less often ;) A locked 30 front WILL grenade. If you overbuild the shafts, you start snapping R&P's like twigs. I personally would rather carry a few cheap and plentyful later model stock parts that are easy to swap on the trail than risk something more catastrophic or expensive. I would be leary of running a full detroit on the front axle of a DD. I would go full locker in the rear, and try to find a selectable for the front. And this is based on what research/experience? I run an Aussie locker in a stock high pinion D30 with 5-760x u joints (stronger replacements for the 5-297x) with 35" tires. Had the front axle bouncing numerous times. An exceptionally high bounce (2+ feet, but the truck was pointed uphill at steeper than 45 degrees!) at WOT/low range did elongate one of the ears on the driver side outer shaft causing it to spit out the snap ring and started pushing the cap out. Pushed the cap back into place and put in a new snap ring, 1/4 mile later the new ring had been spit out and the cap was half way out again. Some more abuse afterwards and the ring and pinion are still good, and more surprisingly the tubes are still straight. I did end up building a new axle because I needed 3 new oil seals as well as new pinion bearings due to front drive shaft u joint problems. It was easier to build a new axle on the tailgate and then swap axles than to rebuild the old one under the truck. The old one will be rebuilt with 4.10 gears to eventually end up in Sparkles. The new one (still with 3.55 gears) will go under Booger when I upgrade to a somewhat custom, probably shortened 78/79 Ford F250 high pinion 44. Planning to use Chevy flat top knuckles, Ford F150 brakes and hubs, Waggy shafts, stock Comanche suspension mount points from Ballistic Fab. I could also use a 77-79 F150 Super Cab axle, which is the same axle but already has 5 lug outers. 76-77 F150 is also a possibility. This hill: but turning onto it and going straight up instead of lining up first. Hit a steeper part off to the left when facing it, or right in the video and bounced 5 times instead of the 2 small bounces shown here.

With a dolly, two wheels wil be on the ground. That means you need valid plates on the vehicle being towed.

The only thing that stayed the same through all this is your passenger wheel cylinder...