james750

Are you using a bench vise to press them out? I've never had a problem with them even when rust welded with enough leverage on a bench vice handle.

Starters aren't too difficult to replace, so it couldn't have been THAT bad.

What do you guys think the maximum safe sustainable engine rpm is. With my 4.10 gears and 28" tires it is at about 3000rpm at 65mph in 5th gear. Is it safe to sustain that rpm for a long period of times (about 6-7 miles each way, everyday in my commute)

Flat rate work (way most mechanics get paid) prevents this from happening. But if he does the work faster than the paid time, that he gets more money that the amount of time actually put in.

I have my bench seat sagging on the left side (probably from the left leg moving constantly up and down to push in the clutch), What would you guys advise about this?

I just saw that MJ on another site yesterday and thought about how great of a job was done! I think it was GLXJ? Or NAXJA? EDIT: But please put headlights that fit into that header panel rather than the Hellas it just doesn't look right without it.

Trimmed the front fenders and attached the hard front brake lines to the frame. Now I need to find a way to attach the hard rear lines to the frame.

uuuuuuuuuuuuuuuhhh, I am pretty sure that all YJ's had a d35 rear axle. Correct me if I am wrong.

It would DEFINITELY do it in park if this were the case. I think it is probably a rear driveshaft ujoint or front axle shaft ujoint since your jeep should have a CAD, if the CAD is not working, then it could be one of the ujoints in the front driveshaft, a bad CV centering yoke, or having twisting play in the front driveshaft splines.

I put them on mine because my factory tow mirrors were vibrating on the highway. The new ones were a bolt in swap, i pulled the door panel off, removed the inside mirror blank, removed the three torx screws to pull the outer mirror blank. Then the new ones just bolt into the new place with the mirror control ending up inside the cab with a new inside mirror blank. Took about an hour to do both sides and install new vent wing windows. It was totally worth it. :thumbsup:

Yeah, I know, 15psi is testing pressure. They said that the cap was rated to release at 25psi even though that more damage is likely to be done to the rest of the cooling system if it ever reaches that pressure.

Cool, it looks like it is just a single hose at the bottom. And that height (relevant to the pressure bottle) is not important based on chico's write up on it.

Also, a little bit confused because when I called this morning they said it uses a pressure cap that only releases pressure when it exceeds 25psi or so. They said that it would keep the cooling system a closed system. Either way I will figure it out and it will be cool. 8)

How do I run a catch bottle, Do I need a hole in the top for the entry and a hole in the bottom for an Exit of coolant. I don't know much about cooling systems, can somebody walk me through this? I will need to get a catch bottle, and then how and where do I hook it up. Will this thing work for a catch bottle? http://shop.oreillyauto.com/ProductDetail.aspx?MfrCode=DOR&MfrPartNumber=603001&CategoryCode=3052 Does it need to be mounted above the pressure bottle?

Cool, that should work then.

I'm not quite ready to do that yet. I ordered one thinking that it would be a direct bolt in swap. Maybe I should cancel my order and just go with a plastic one. I just want to keep stock cooling and it doesn't look like this setup will do that. EDIT: Just called them. They said that it does keep the closed system and the cap only releases pressure if the system gets way over pressurized. They said that I would not need an overflow bottle.

Can i just plug in that expansion tank and have it work? Or do I need to get any other parts. It looks like that is just an expansion tank for a closed system that is just metal instead of plastic. Or does this tank convert it to an open system without any other parts?

Today I blew the 3rd pressure bottle cap in 4 months on the MJ. I have determined that the threads on the bottle are probably toast allowing the caps to pop off. Does anyone know where I and get one of the metal bottles? I'd like to upgrade while I am doing the work anyway and do not want to deal with this again.

Are your current ones damaged? Sagged? If not, I would just clean them up.

I do have frame tie ins, they are installed. You can even see them in the pics, they extend past the Steering box and even touch the swaybar when disconnected. :thumbsup: I have Adjustable Uppers, they need to be installed. I have a rounded off bolt keeping me from doing that until I have the time to deal with it. Steering angles are actually alright with how it sits now, but I do plan on upgrading when money permits. I haven't had any problems yet as far as control arm angles are concerned, this rig is daily driven. Also, drop brackets will get hung up on rocks, Ill take the worse angle over the lowering brackets getting caught up on the rocks. And yes, I do plan on attaching the brake lines to the body as soon as I fabricate a bracket to do so. . A tech helped me do the axle swap/suspension setup and seems to think that it is safe for the road and trail. Not sure what to do about the height difference at this point w/o going to Long arms. So for now it will stay. :smart: As for the tires, If I could afford bigger, I would get bigger. Not easy to do with no current job and just spending 1k on the axle swap.

You won't need a SYE on and SOA on an MJ. Because MJ's have a very long wheelbase (both LWB and SWB, but LWB is even longer) a SYE isn't needed until your at about 12"+ of lift. My SOA gave me 10" and I still do not need an SYE.

I was bored today, and have the itch to go out and wheel but couldn't. So I flexed the MJ in the driveway. Brake lines still have plenty of room out back.

:needpics:

Why no PB? :dunno: I used it on the 97XJ to get it off, one squirt, 5 secs, and it slid off. I wiped it off real quick and I had no problems, switch worked fine.

EXACTLY what I was trying to point out. :smart: