Lemmon714

I have an 87 with a 4.0. I had the same issue years ago. My issue turned out to be a cracked sense tube from the throttle body to the MAP sensor. My temporary fix was to heat shrink the cracked tube. I purchased a new tube from the dealer and the problem was solved. I can only hope it would be this simple for you.

I have a 2007 with the 4.7. The typical troubles to look for are- The drain tubes for the sunroof/ moonroof tend to clog and flood the floor. You may need to clean them out or cut the nipple off the end at the floor board. The remote start takes a toll on the starter. The original starters seem to fail. The starter can be removed from under the vehicle- it is tricky but can be done. The transmission is tough, the valve body will probably crap out between 100,000- 120,000. The shifting pattern is a little funky, it has a slow shift in normal mode, it shifts much better in tow mode. The front calipers tend to seize (per the counter guy at the dealer). Lower control arms are a typical complaint for failing. When the oem rear shocks die, Bilsteins are a better replacement. Headlights provide great lighting on the road. The rear seats need to be folded down if you want cargo room or go shopping. I bought it used in 2011 with 60,000 miles for $14,000. There is a recall for reprogramming the transfer case, most people seem to loose the High/ Low function. It drives comfortable, it has good stopping power. The Heat and A/C work well. Some people have weeping around the crimps on the power steering or transmission lines at the front of the vehicle below the radiator. Would I buy again or buy with the 5.7- yes.

Saw this on Ebay http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-84-90-Jeep-Wrangler-Comanche-Cherokee-Wagoneer-Mopar-Disc-Pads-/261832068956?hash=item3cf6684f5c&vxp=mtr I don't have a Jeep/ MOPAR cross reference handy

We have been installing LED fixtures in commercial office applications. The "Indirect light" fixtures have less glare and better coverage. Some of the surface fixtures will glare on all the chrome surfaces. The color is close to daylight, I prefer this color. You should be able to have an electrical supply company provide a few fixtures for "Testing" in your gym. We had 4 or 5 different fixtures before we found one that worked in an office area. You can also have individual occupancy sensors installed for each fixture. If there are times when the gym has low occupancy, the fixtures have a timer that will turn them "Off." If your gym is a "High Bay," I am not sure if the fixtures will work correctly. Your local electric company may offer a rebate for the installation of the fixtures. The CREE fixtures do not flicker like some of the other units.

Pete, Not sure if you are a cheap-o like me- I rebuilt two Denso alternators using the attached link. I did not replace the bearings, just the brushes. You should look at the slip rings on the rotor shaft to make sure they are not excessively worn. I think they are replaceable, I didn't change them on my alternators. http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/rebuilding-nippon-denso-alternator-00-01-56041822aa-835511/ Dave

This doesn't solve your radio issue, but it provides background on disassembly and cleaning. http://www.allpar.com/stereo/combo-deck/index.html

I had a similar issue with my 96 dakota and a 3.9 with random misfires. I changed the cap, rotor, ignition module, plugs and nothing helped. I did a fuel pump check and found the regulator at the fuel pump was bad. Fuel pump would make pressure and when the truck was turned off the pressure went to 0 psi. I replaced the fuel pump and rebuilt the fuel injectiors- I think the regulator clogged the filter screens in the injectors. The injector kit has a set of filter screens and o-rings. After the rebuild of the injectors it runs better than when I bought it new. I also find that the oem mpoar pcv works much better than aftermarket pcv's- maybe my opinion but I have fixed many problems by changing the pcv to oem for friends.

Attached link is some "Toilet reading" on alternators. Not sure if the info pertains to your alternator. http://oljeep.com/gw/alt/edge_Alternator_Theory.html#Section_5

I bought a used 2007 4.7 4x4 to upgrade my wife from her 1998 XJ. Jeep had 60K when bought, 1 year later it has 75k. Problems- The sunroof leaked on the DS and PS. I fixed it by modifying the outlet tubes- there is a pin hole opening in the outlet tube that was filled with dirt. The transmission shifts with a stutter under part load in low gears- you need to get used to the feeling. In Tow/ Haul it shifts like you would expect it to shift. Observations- The rear seats obstruct the view out the rear window. We typically have them down all the time. The vision out the rear window and back side windows is poor. This seems to be the way all new vehicles are built. Compared to the XJ it feels like you loose about 70% of the visibility. The front is spacious and comfortable when sitting. The seats are supportive- I have taken it from PA to FL two times (13- 14 hour drive). The middle seats are fine- it is not spacious but sufficient. The rear seats are for small children. Gas mileage is bad (as expected) 12- 14 city and 17-20 highway. Highway is better at lower speeds, mpg drops off after 70 mph. I did not test drive a V6, it did not seem like an acceptable power plant for the weight of the vehicle. It drives and handles well, the traction control is annoying on curves when it pules the ABS due to vehicle speed- I get the pulsing, my wife doesn't drive it fast enough. I have not been able to remove the third row seats- I don't think it is possible. The 4.7 is plenty powerful for the vehicle, I am sure the HEMI would be a great upgrade, I am not convinced I would get a V6. The Goodyear Fortera tires are good for about 45,000 miles if you are looking at a low mileage vehicle. It does not have a cabin air filter- you may be able to retrofit a GC filter and kit into the vehicle. With rear seats down there is just enough cargo capacity, but it is not cavernous. I purchased a net for the rear to keep things from sliding into the rear hatch and falling out when the gate is opened. The heated seats are wonderful in the Winter. I can turn on the AC in the swing months and my wife is comfortable with the seat heater "On." The Auto Stick is nice if you drive through hills or in rough terrain. If your wife is comfortable with a standard transmission, it gives you more control. The brakes feel solid and stop the vehicle well. Loaded up for vacation or with multiple adults and kids in the back it still handles and moves well. Other than ATF, oil, and filters (and coolant at 5 years/ 75K) I have done zero work to it. The transmission and engine run great. I have heard complaints about LCA's wearing out. I would like to upgrade the shocks and struts to Bilsteins due to mileage. It burns about 1 qt. of oil every 2500- 3500 miles. The 4x4 has not been put to the test in real snow, but it has been fine for light off road use and small snow accumulations. I have not done any serious off roading. I would not hesitate to take it off road if I had the chance. Just make sure you and her get a feel for "Lack of visibility" through the rear window and side windows, it is different and requires adjustment from driving smaller vehicles. I don't have a backup camera- this is one of the few options it does not have. For all those people with insomnia, sorry for posting the cure (Read the above comments).

All good advice so far. For payments search "Amortization Chart or Amortization Calculator." You can input total loan amount, interest rate, and total months. This will help you determine payment and time to payoff the loan. You don't want the salesguy to quote you a seven (7) year loan just so you can make the monthly payment at $200. I have financed vehicles through my Credit Union where the rates are usually better. You can check local bank and credit union rates online to see budgetary interst rates.

Did you try http://www.Rockauto.com under fuel pump lock ring. BTW- you can use code- 70898082956101 for 5% off. This is good until 04 December.

I can't say I have personally tried the following, but maybe a little research can help you out with using your parents WiFi. The option is a "Cantenna" and an attached link. http://www.turnpoint.net/wireless/cantennahowto.html Dave

http://southjersey.craigslist.org/cto/2273814153.html How rare is rare?

Brent's screen name is BLHTAZ. The code word is "Jeep." http://www.precisionautoinjectors.com/ I am not sure if the code was through ebay, his site, or both. Look under Jeep- they are listed at $89.95.

Taken from XJ. Location is SE PA. http://philadelphia.craigslist.org/pts/2168418130.html

I have used heat shrink tube to fix broken vacuum lines. You need to make sure there is enough vacuum line- about 1.5 inches on each side of the break. I used to get the heat shrink tube from the "Controls" electrician at work. Just be careful if you are using a torch.

1987 Red Jeep Comanche Base with 112,xxx miles 4.0l, AW4, NP231, Dana 30, Dana 35, LWB Unknown Build date Residence is Horsham, PA (outside Philadelphia) Winter beater and weekend truck (better in the snow than a 2wd dakota) Was given to me for free from a coworker in Dec 2006. He was going to scrap the truck because he didn't need it anymore. Was purchased new by his father. Bench seat, column shift, standard cluster, wagon wheels, aftermarket rear hitch, factory A/C, drop-in bedliner, rear slinding window Have 12- 15 Mopar oil filters

I had an issue with the MAP sense tube from the throttle body to the MAP sensor. It cracked at the elbow going up to the sensor. I replaced the tube and my idle was much better. Might not be your issue, but it is another possibility.

Some hints and suggestions: Globalization and the cost of energy- How China will drive up the cost of energy as their consumption increases. The cost of health care and pharmaceuticals- How cheaper generics can offset the higher cost of health care. When will the Asian Stock Markets eclipse Wall Street as the world standard? When will the dollar become obsolete or who will be the next successor for the world currency. Need any more ideas?

The disconnected hose goes to the stock airbox. I think it is the heat control on the inlet air. I agree with Dakal- I would plug it. It's causing you a vacuum leak. (It may also be how your comanche gets it daily dose of yuengling black and tan.)

I found a local guy with a set of tow hooks from a Wrangler or Cherokee. Is there a difference (visual or mounting) between them. They would be for my Comanche. The price is right at $10. Thank you.

I took a look at my 87. There are two factory connections from the "Lighting Harness" in your picture- a red and black wire for the fan power and a gray and yellow wire from the same harness that plugs into the "Open port" above the radiator hose. The fan mounts in the open tabs at bottom and the two screws at the top. I don't have an electrical schematic to look at to see if there are other requirements. I am not sure if I would use the radiator for a power steering cooler. At 210F it would seem like you might be heating the power steering fluid instead of cooling it. All the power steering coolers I have seen are self contained to the PS pump and hoses.

According to my factory service manual (96), the AX-15 is used behind the 4.0 and the NV3500 is used behind the 3.9 and 5.2. My memory is that 2.5 and 3.9 motors received the AX-15 and the 5.2 motors received the NV3500. I think 97 was the change for the 3.9 to get the NV3500. Leave it to Chrysler to talk about the 4.0 in the Dakota. I can't really help with the bolt pattern.

The local Dodge dealer used to sell "Take offs" for about $1.50- 2.00 each. Get the acorn style without the cap.

I had a random misfire in my 96 dakota. The fix was rebuilding the fuel injectors- the regulator on the fuel pump disintegrated and clogged the filters in all the injectors. If it were me, I would also look at the cap, rotor, wires, plugs, and coil. I am not sure how a transmission problem causes misfires. I hate to endorse products- but I personally think that Amsoil is much better than Dexron in the AW4 when adding or changing fluid- if you need to go in that direction.