tubpilot

Rob Mac's old truck, very cool! And he just won the 1000 this year, too bad not in a Manche trophy truck. http://www.race-dezert.com/classifieds/index.php?ct=orrace&md=details&id=82808

Where abouts are you?

If you're still looking let me know, I have one from a long bed.

I have one, if you send me your zip code I can get you a shipping quote.

I have a set of 3.07 for a Dana 35 rear and HP30 front. They where pulled with about 60000 miles. I would like $70 for the pair.

I love the "Drive it like you stole it!" sticker on the Wago, the same Wago you don't have regi for!

I have a set if you're still looking.

$50 for both sides inners and outers with greasable u-joints if you're interested.

I just got it for $300. I got it to use for parts. It is a red 4x4 Pioneer with bench seat, cruise control and tilt steering, has a Dana 35 rear end, AX-15 transmission, full skid plate package, camper belly bar, rear trailer hitch, bed liner. It is one of the rustiest Comanches I have seen, but the final blow was a rollover (that's how I got it). I'll try and get pics up soon.

I guess that's the problem with parts from eBay. Buggers only list it fitting a 91-92 Comanche, don't list the Cherokee. Good thing you cross referenced it. If you had a core I'd imagine it could be rebuilt, as I use to get the transmitters in the DHC-2 Beavers rebuilt when they packed it in.

Here is the link! I knew I saw it somewhere, I hope this will work for you. http://www.ebay.com/itm/AIRTEX-E7072S-Fuel-Pump-and-Sender-Assembly-/111218200560?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Model%3AComanche&hash=item19e51f0ff0&vxp=mtr

This is what I was thinking: http://www.ebay.ca/itm/New-Fuel-Pump-Cherokee-Comanche-2-5L-4-0L-/301025207765?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item46168025d5&vxp=mtr I read the add further and realised it's for a Cherokee :( Oops.

You can just unwind the steering stops on the axle, no need to change any parts.

I think using rivets to hold the new pan in place while adhesive such as Duramix (a 2 part epoxy) cures would be decent if you can't weld. Preparation and temperature/humidity is key, but done properly it's a real alternative. Blind rivets are no comparison to anything used on aircraft. Aircraft rivets are solid rivets and need to be driven from one side and bucked from the other, similar to old bridges. They are spaced as tight as 3 times the rivet diameter, so imagine the number required to do it properly. Where blind rivets are used on aircraft is due to lack of access to the other side, and then the rivets used are pricey Huck, Avex and Cherry max rivets. However you do it, take your time and do a good job. Post some pics and enjoy your Manche!

I have seen new HO sending units complete with pump for sale on eBay, no such luck for the Renix Manches...

I have put gears and a locker in a 35 and would never do it again! I have an 8.8 with 4.55 gears ready to go in soon. If you have a manual transmission and want to do the rear end on the cheap I would get an 8.8 out of a 2 door Explorer as to get the 4.10 gears, although the more common 3.73 gears will be useable with a 5 speed and 33's. If you get a 91-94 rear end with drumb brakes there is less work involved with the swap (cheaper since you'll be paying to have it done) and the 8.8 drumb brakes are an improvement over what Jeep used, and the park brake is better than in the disc rears. Most of these diffs have a posi, and Ford motorsport sells new friction plates for the posi. If you did this you will end up with lower gears and a limited slip all for the price of the rear end. Now all you have to do is get matching front gears and a carrier. I think it will be cheaper and stronger than the 8.25 as most of those have 3.55 gears that you will want to replace to be used with 33" tires. But look around, you have time and you might find a 4.10 geared 8.25 out of a 4 cylinder Cherokee.

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/NOS-AMC-Jeep-Cherokee-Commanche-4-0-Liter-Throttle-Body-Valve-1987-88-89-90-/350705965241?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item51a7b458b9&vxp=mtr Looks like the TPS is for an automatic.

If you swap to a crankshaft from a 258 it turns the 4.0 to a 4.6 and the only other change is bigger injectors. It really won't add much to the total cost of an engine build, parts and machine work all the same, just injectors and a crank. You should be able to get a 258 from an AMC car for free or close. A friend built one for a Grand Cherokee and it performed like a 5.2 grand. You'll be quite happy with the engine.

75W90, I use Motul Gear 300 cause I work at a bike shop and we carry it. It's GL-4 and GL-5 rated, the gear oil that's just GL-5 seemed to bee a bit notchy feeling in the shifter. I have always been tempted to use 2 stroke trans oil, my wifes Civic is gonna get it when I get around to changing it.

That is gonna be one sweet truck! I have BFG 33X10.50 15 tires, I'm on my third set now. I don't think you can go wrong with that size, they fit stock 7" rims, they're easy on the steering, ball joints and brakes. I think they're lighter than 32's if that is of any concern. BFG makes MT's AT's and Baja T/A, Toyo makes open country M/T, General makes grabber red letters and Interco makes radial and bias swampers that size so there is a lot to choose from! If you ever go to Baja when a race is on spares are easy to come by too, class 10, 12 and 5 all run that size tires, dunno if you'll ever come by a 32 down there.

Mine loves one bottle of Lucas transmission fix and the remanider synthetic gear oil. I wasn't a believer of the rebuild in a bottle, but I gave it a shot and I can testify that it works! 225000km, on the original transmission, 33" tires on it more than half it's life.

If it's a Peugeot tranny in it most anything would be an upgrade, AX-15/231 would be my combo of choice, but if the rite Cherokee auto comes your way and an auto is an option for you why not? Even if you stay Renix the ECU and TPS are different between stick and auto.

It was Canadian dollars. General spring price is $220 per spring, maybe a bit cheaper for a group buy. Shipping to Canada plus brokerage and duty adds up a bit. I like to support my local shops when the price is reasonable, but General spring supporting Comanche club is worth supporting too.

I would have to measure the free arch. It should be between a regular spring and a metric ton as far as ride height. I could use a couple inches more lift than the stock springs as it's riding a little low in the back. The springs that are in it are pretty saggy, I have to re-aim the headlights when I remove the 33" spare tire! New springs will sag a bit after installation, we'll see, I might have to lift the front a bit to level it out.

They're stock height (being used in a spring over), load rating should be around 1550lbs (stock 1300lbs, metric ton 1700lbs). Hub city spring in Nanaimo British Columbia made them and they where $560.