HKB3

Diesel could be good, I have seen a Isuzu diesel in a samari Maybe a cummins 4BT in a MJ

If its an XJ why not just put some blocks in or shackles if you are just looking for an 1" or so

I know this is a LONG shot but any chance you saved the solid rear glass from the parts truck? I`d like to pick one up.

As I was reading through I was thinking to myself I should recommend using a nut on the bottom side of the spring mount :D I always over-engineer everything

Pull it yourself junkyard Chain & come-a-long & a big tree Good Luck

I have a similar problem going on in my YJ, the turn signal indicators and high beam indicator "glow" very dimly all the time(head lights on or off). The headlights are dim also & when the turn signals are on all the other lights pulse with the turn signals. So far the ground wires look ok, but I have some less then spectacular "custom" wiring going on under the dash. Right now everything works so I going to leave it alone until I get my comanche back on the road, then I will probably pull the dash & see whats going on up close.

From MJ to MJ should be a direct bolt in as long as the ratio is the same as the front if its a 4wd

spin the axle/hub one revolution, count how many revolutions the yoke goes around. If its from a Explorer most likely it will have 3.73 or 4.10. 3.73s will go around almost 3 3/4 times 4.10 will go around just a little over 4 turns If you end up having to pull the cover Ford gears have the ratio stamped right on them(very easy to see on the pinion gear) *EDIT I'm a slow typer :hmm:

You can buy a complete Vortec 5.3L with computer and wiring harness for less then $1000. All you have to do is hook up a few wires for power & gauges ect. and you are ready to go :idea: , Carbs are so 20th centry :shake: All you ever wanted to know about LSx motors and more can be found here: http://www.ls1tech.com

Awesome Build :bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown: FWIW the best/closest to factory satin black trim paint I have used is Mar-Hyde http://www.3m.com/US/auto_marine_aero/Bondo/catalog_item3e68.html?itemNbr=328 Keep up the Great Work :cheers:

I don`t know why but I can`t see any pics

check out this thread http://naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=945920

*EDIT

If its not broke, fix it until it is?

While you still have the chance go back and pull the master cylinder/slave cylinder setup, pedal assembly, and dual diaphragm booster and newer master cylinder. Already got the slave/master cylinder, Why would I need the pedal assembly? l`m not worried about upgrading the brakes till later on

Myself & My brother both have Line X liners great product, cost around $400 going to get one in the MJ after paint

right now I have 235s on ford 15x7 wheels with 0 rubbing stock ride height, I used to have 15x8 aftermarket wheels with 235s & they would rub a little at full turn. I think with 1-2 inch lift 31s would fit but with a 4cyl I would stay with 235s IMO

Well if I do cut it I`m thinking of something like this for a bumper minus the hitch you will have to excuse my paint skills....I work much better in metal :D

Thanx guys, My MJ is mostly going to be a DD/light wheeler(drive to the trail & drive home) although it will be wearing 35s with TnT long arms. I have the YJ to "hack" with the sawzall

Well I am getting ready to fab up some bumpers for my MJ and can`t decide if I want to cut the bed or not. here is a pic of what I am thinking of: (random pic, not my MJ) to end up with this: (I don`t know who`s MJ this is but it sure is nice) My bed has ZERO rust & is in very good shape so thats why I`m hesitating to cut, what would you do?

Sometimes things just happen ;) :brows: :peek:

:cheers:

:cheers:

You might want to check out the Dupli-Color Paint Shop Finish System, its lacquer but should do the trick for cheap

You might want to check out the Dupli-Color Paint Shop Finish System, its lacquer but should do the trick for cheap