SuperWade2

WooHoo.... just passed the smog with flying colors, all of the exhaust gasses and whatever else they measure were at or below the averages and well below the Max Limits. The EGR Valve was fine and now I just get to pay DMV a couple bennies to register ($110 for registration and about $90 late fee since it was due at the end of August.) :wall:

But at least these were listed in the "Bad" -chrome stacks -ghey snorkle

I'm pretty sure my next 35" TJ Tires will be the Goodyear Wrangler MT/R Kevlar...

"Here Hold my Beer....watch this..."

Per my other threads... I failed the CA Smog Test for inoperative EGR Valve...After inspected my Vacuum line setup was atrocious so I ordered new main vacuum harness...Go everything wired back up and need to go back and try to get it smogged again... This pic also shows my replacement Injectors, Junkyard Fuel Rail and newly painted Valve cover (and new gasket, the blue thing). My MJ had an electric Fan, but apparently my Radiator had been replaced at some point and didn't have the sensor and wiring harness that controlled the power to the fan. So I tapped into the wiring and went to one of the switches on my dash so I can selectivity turn on the electric fan when I want/need it on. Next, I ordered some HiCountry Offroad Xtreme D-Ring Brackets ... They are sitting on my workbench, but once I get the smog and DMV stuff done I'll spend a couple hours installing these. next will be reinstalling my interior...

Rust like that makes Baby Jesus Cry...

Bureaucratic BS that we get to put up with to live 10 minutes to the Ocean , 3 Hours to Ski'ing, 4 Hours to the Rubicon Trail, Dusy, etc, etc... and have perfect weather about 80% of the year. I pulled the MJ out of the Garage today for the first time in a long time. Tweaked the idle up to somewhere between 750-900, replaced one more vac line (the one going from the throttle body up to the back of the engine bay), and it seemed to be doing pretty well (except for the lifter thing). The Shop that I did the last smog shop isn't doing them this week since their machine is down right now, so I need to get to another place to get it smogged and then pay the $200 DMV Bill (late fee since the tags expired). Then I get to see if I got the interior leaks fixed and reinstall my interior! Maybe next week. Front Tow Hooks should also be here early next week. Sw2

I've never used it, but I've read good things about the Eastwood Rust Converter (and it's available in a spray can as well) http://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-rust-converter.html There there is the POR15 that people use a lot. Wade

Well, got it wired up... Sniped that Yellow and Grey wire (what should have been connected to the Sensor in the Radiator), wired to one of my OEM Jeep Switches... the Switch had 3 posts, I cut off one of the connectors behind the dash (that also had 3 wires, I think it had a "Cargo Light" tag on it), connected the Yellow/Grey to the top 2 wires on the harness. Fired up the Engine, flipped the switch on, Fan Started and I got the little orange/amber light on the switch, switch off, no fan, no light. Ran the wires into the cab and plugged everything back in and dash back on. Overall happy! thanks to everyone that tired to educate my slow brain on electrical junk. SW2

OK, I have a butt load of different switches... a bunch from different XJ/MJ panels and a couple really nice Carling Contura II's (which I'd prefer to use, cause they are nicer and newer)... I don't have a clue how to wire up any of them (or if any will work, although they all fit nicely into the switch blanks in the dash). Some of the Jeep switches have 3 terminals, some with 4 and the Contura's have 5 I think. Obviously I have a + and a - running from the Fan Switch wiring that I snipped the end off of, but beyond that, ???? Any wiring tips? I think this is a diagram of the Contura's I have, even though I don't really get it still...

I see it... just can't seem to get any thing to fit inside...you sure it's all and not torx or something goofy way up inside there? ***EDIT*** seems like the 2.5mm allen/hex finally got the screw to turn a little bit... need to fire it up and get it warm so I can get it adjusted correctly! Thanks!

thanks, I'll go down and take a peek once I get my kids to sleep!

You realize who your talking to, right? You read the excessively ignorantly stupid questions and comments that I post on a semi regular basis and you think I remote have the ability to do any bearings or motor head pulling? :banana:

What exactly is all of that going to do? I'm still going to have noisy crappy lifters and the truck is still gonna run like poo until it blows up... :yes:

Yah, I didn't touch that thing...should I? I pulled the air hose off and that was about it!

I'll say it again... uhhh..... :huh???:

uhhh....... :huh???:

Oh Yah... I'm doing that....I wonder how the dude at the shop adjusted it down...I guess maybe I go ask him.

Yah, it's just not real apparent that there is a screw anywhere up there looking visually or any of the service manuals I have... In fact, I'm still looking... SW2

Is there just an adjustment bolt/screw on the throttle body? (I wasn't there when we was f'ing with it, and I've never adjusted one before)

:agree: :USAflag: :USAflag: :USAflag: :USAflag: :USAflag: :USAflag: :USAflag:

Thanks for the help guys... I'll try to test the EGR this evening I hope... One more maybe related question... the guy that was doing the Smog Check said it was idling too high to pass (which it didn't anyhow because of EGR)... I think he said it was running 1200-1500RPM's when it was warmed up, so he dialed down the idle a bit and said it was just under 1000 RPM after he messed with it. I"m not sure if this is S.O.P. for a smog check...but :???: Anyhow, now that I think the vacuum parts working the way they should, when it was running last night in the garage (not fully warmed up), the idle seemed pretty low and was at or just under 500RPM. Should I adjust it back up, or just leave it be? SW2

10-4 One can never have too many toggle switches. I was just thinking (a rarity for me)... do I really need a connector for that plug? Can I just snip it off and splice the 2 wires from it to the switch... not as "pretty" maybe, but seems like it would be more or less the same result?

You are correct Eagle, I was sloppy in my use of the terminology (which happens sometimes after a long day of work and a few beers). I Have the pressure/surge bottle, and NO overflow tank. There is a standard relay as part of that wire loom/system on my drivers side fender at well. And also correct, I have no sender or pigtail on my radiator (there is a circular plastic hole just about above the hose, but it's solid and blocked off 1/4" or whatever in, I stuck my finger in it last night) So it sounds like a quick trip to the parts store to find the right connector and I might finally have a use for one of the "dummy" switches I stuck in my dash to block holes left my the previous owner.

So possible that someone replaced the rad with one that it wasn't setup for and so it doesn't have the sensor? So now the question is, how hard would it be to wire a switch so I could turn the fan on/off manually?