SuperWade2

:nuts: I ran down to the hardware store and got some real bolts the same thread and length. IMO, two of the best dollars I ever spent. Torx God willing, i'll never have to remove em again....

It must have been a thread off or something the last time I installed it....once I got it out, it when back in with no prob once I stuck the carpet back in....Probably a cheap chineese torx bit...the craftsman one held up OK (although I felt better knowing I could take it into Sears for a replacement had it broke).

Garbage...I tried to trim, and it started to fall apart at both sides...so it went away...

Just a personal preference...Not a fan of hooks... saw a cheap one snap and impale itself in the side of rig once a few years ago, scared the bejesus out of me and if it would have hit someone...well, that could have been the end of them... Most of the guys I wheel with use the safety thimble on their winches (which is also what I have on my Winch on my TJ) and I'll probably only leave the d-rings on if/when I go wheeling. The two that I stuck on there for the pic live most of the time in my Recovery Bag that I take wheeling. I have another 4 that I leave on my TJ all the time (2 front and 2 rear). Wade

Installed http://store.hicountryoffroad.com/Xtreme-Tow-Hook-Bracket-with-D-Ring-Mounts-_p_41.html#...

Got my D_ring Tow Mount point things installed. I still need to get a couple of the Pass side through bolts drilled/sleeved/instaleld, but they are both and the drivers side seem solid... And I did end up taking the lower air dam plastic thing off and trimming the lower edge of my flares. It was pretty beat up anyhow... I think it looks OK... I also tossed a fresh coat of spray on my front axle, and am about 75% done reinstalling my interior (basically just the seats left to go back in. Also bent my Sway Bar disco Pin on the axle out a little bit so I can actually get the disco on and off without a BFH. SW2

Never mind.. a 2' Breaker Bar and a better Craftsman Torx bit and a little oomph!

I was getting ready to start reinstalling my interior, trying to remove my rear seatbelt bracket bolt...The T50 Torx sheared off an Impact Torx Bit...luckily I was able to get the sheared off chunk out with a magnet, but any tips for removing this bolt? Wade

I'm running 2" Coil Spacers (I think it was a Rubicon Express Budget Boost Kit) that I pulled off my TJ and stuck up front on my MJ...works fine...

I'm now scouring the globe for an 8220 0522, but not holding my breath 8220 0359 1 SPORT BAR, w/7 ft. pickup box *** 8220 0522 1 SPORT BAR, w/6 ft. pickup box ***

If that were an MJ with <400miles, the guys here would be on it like a fat kid on a cupcake...

1986 Jeep CJ-7 Laredo 369 Actual mile - $39995 http://dallas.craigslist.org/ndf/ctd/1453035324.html 1986 Jeep CJ-7 Laredo 369 Actual miles AS NEW NEVER TITLED, STILL ON MSO, YES YOU WILL BE THE ORIGINAL OWNER. Special ordered by Dealer/Collector, delivered new to a private collection in early 1986 and has been properly stored, maintained and covered since 1986. The 86 Laredo was the top of the line and the last year for the CJ-7 this is a special ordered Automatic. It is estimated that less than 250 Automatic Laredo’s were built in 86, also has two other very rare options, cruise control and factory cassette. The collector also requested that the top not be installed. He did not want any holes drilled into the body. The black soft top is still in its original factory Whitco box. To see all of the factory options please refer to invoice and window sticker. This is one of the lowest mileage and finest CJ-7’s in existence. We have the original certificate of origin (MSO), original invoice, window sticker, books, manuals, etc… It is as close to new as you will ever find. We offer worldwide shipping and financing with approved credit. We have specialized in 76-86 Jeep CJ’s for over 25 years this is without a doubt one of the finest in existence. This opportunity to buy an as new CJ-7 Laredo may never present itself again. Thanks for interest. VIN# 1JCCE87E4GT100785

Banned....oppps

This one?

How are the "OEM" Tow Hook Brackets connected? I can connect this one with the 1/2" hole in the back (which is there and sleeved) and the 2 bolts from under the frame at the swaybar mount. So I'd have 3 points of connection on the Pass Side, which isn't optimal, but if that's what the OEM brackets have, then I don't feel too bad. On the Drivers side, it uses the 3 through bolts for the steering box plus the 2 for the swaybar mount (plus 2 extra's behind the mount on the lower side), so that side should be good and solid. Wade

I've bought and sold two NOS MJ roll bars (called Roll Bar, Sport in the manuals) by searching for the OEM p/n for both the LWB and SWb on various sources. They do come up occasionally at very reasonable prices. :D Show Off! :fool:

I'd love to have a "Roll Bar/Light Bar" (whatever you choose to call it).... I've never even seen one personally either on a Rig or in a JY, but if someone made a reproduction, I'd buy one in a minute!

Heck, at this point, maybe I should have just ordered a new front bumper...lots of work just to get some nice D-Ring mounts...

Or give me an excuse to buy one... Would something like this drive a 7/16" Drill Bit through that frame, even assuming I can fit it in there? I have a bunch of 18V Dewalt Batteries/Chargers, so I like to get the Bare tools (this one is about $100 w/o Battery/Charger)

Maybe on later Model XJ's... dunno...

The only hole already drilled on mine is in the far back (left on your pic)... I don't think without significant 'take off', I'm have any chance of getting a drill in there to make the necessary holes... Here is a bad Cell Phone Shot -> The Red Circles are where the Holes "Should" be...

Well, I started looking at the Tow Hooks and while they seem to be pretty straight forward, my MJ doesn't have any of the 7/16" stock tow hook holes drilled in the frame that this thing is suppose to use. I don't really know how, without taking off the bumper, and fender and god knows what else how I'm suppose to get in there to drill new 7/16" holes for the through bolts. Any Advice? Nothing is ever as easy as I plan on it being... Sw2

thanks

Was more than Vacuum leaks really...pretty much replacement of the whole main vacuum block... I don't think much of that stuff was hooked up correctly at all...was pretty FUBAR..

:agree: My D44 (ordered from Factory per Buildsheet) SWB= NO MT Springs