Timeless

If you go with a system that used 1 ton TRE's you can get offset tie rod ends to help clear your diff cover. Depending on your setup, you might only be able to run one on the drivers side. http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/TREOFF.html

Update: the BWD injector seals do fit and so far the problem injector as well as the others are not leaking. My only problem was that the seals seem to be mislabeled. Part number 274573 is supposedly for the fuel rail, but after installing them on the injectors, I could not get them into the fuel rail. I had to put these on the nozzle end of the injector and 274571 on the rail end of the injector. So far so good.

Awesome! Atleast I'll be able to put this thing back together correctly.

The brake lights stay on with the ignition off on my rig too. Between disconnecting/reconnecting the battery and messing with the switch, I didn't notice originally. Hornbrod, the brake switch looks similar to the flat one you linked over. Thank you. I know for sure the switch is not round. (Edit: looks like quadratec just has the wrong stock image.) Seeing as this thing is possibly just jammed (hopefully), I'm going to try to remove it and free it up and get a replacement as a backup. I need this rig done by the weekend and its getting tight!

Yes, I have a multimeter. The switch on the brake pedal does not appear to move at all. I'm kind of thinking I somehow jammed it up while bleeding the brakes, but I really don't even know how exactly it is supposed to operate. I can check continuity to verify the brake pedal switch is in fact the problem, but based off all the other symptons and the fact that if I disconnect the switch the lights go off, I'm thinking it must be the problem. Thanks for the feedback thus far!

Thanks guys! I'll pick up the BWD o-rings today. There are different ones for the rail fitting and injector fitting in the head so I'll replace both. They're the same for the OEM injector and 5.0 injectors btw. One problem soon to be resolved =)

My 1987 4.0L is leaking fuel at one of the fuel rail/injector connections. The PO previously installed mustang 5.0L injectors so I am not interested in replacing them with remans or anything else. I just want to replace the seals. After much google-fu, I cannot confirm any part numbers for the o-rings. Fel-Pro 70599's seem to only be for HO years, but my understanding is that RENIX and HO injectors are interchangeable. I would think these would fit, but can any one confirm? Advance Auto seems to have BWD brand rail and injector seals in stock. Am I going to kick myself in the arse in a few weeks/months if these even fit? Any one use these? Thanks for the help.

I'm trying to finish up my build and my MJ keeps resisting...87, 4.0L, AW4 btw. After bleeding my brakes and reconnecting my battery I realized that my brake lights, the ones in the back of the vehicle, (not dash indicator if one even exists) are always on if the ignition is on/truck is running. There is no change if I push down on the pedal, pull up, wiggle it around. I'm not sure if this means the switch on the brake pedal is shot but my best guess is that the problem was somehow caused by pumping the pedal during brake bleed. I have temporarily disconnected the switch on the brake pedal (no, I'm not driving the rig around). Has anyone had a similar issue? If so, what was the resolution?

Alot of what you are asking is really up to you. Search, review manufacturers information and reviews and figure out if the product fits your needs/goals. Just about an XJ long arm cross member will bolt up to an MJ with minimal modification provided you have a 4.0L engine with either an AX15 or AW4 trans. There are variation in the cross members that are transmission specific. SOA in the rear will net you more than 4.5" of lift. You're going to max out the adjustment range on the ACOS with 4.5" front springs. Plan to get 5.5" coil springs or even 6". My recent SOA netted about 6.5" of lift. Good move on wanting to run a 3 link. Look at Rock Krawler and Clayton. I think Poly Performance might still make an XJ 3 ink kit, but I'm not sure. I built my 3 link off of the Clayton 3 link cross member and their front axle bridge. The only problem I had is that there is (IMO) too much separation btwn upper and lower links at the axle end and a bit too much on the cross member side for a "bolt on" install. The floor needs to be modified to clear the upper link. Also, at 6.5" of lift, the upper is just barely level. Any less and it would be angled upward (not good). I had a Rock Krawler 3 link on my old rig with about 5.5" of lift and this was not a problem at all. I can't help you much on the Waggy 44 steering. I never messed with high steer, only OTK. You will need to shift the track bar up on the axle end to work with the high steer drag link angle. Plan on fabricating a steering system with 1 ton TRE's. Barnes and Ruff Stuff have pre-packaged "kits" available.

SOA on my short box with an 8.25 axle in the rear got me somewhere around 6" or 7". You may also want to try the search function. Many people have gone through this.

The question of whether the Timkens (or other higher end and higher priced brands) are a better fit for you will depend on how much you like replacing unit bearings. Personally, I think its a pain in the arse and I'd rather spend the extra money to know I won't have to deal with it for a long long time. And yes, the better bearings are worth it.

If you're asking questions like these, a 4 wheel steer truggy on rockwells is way beyond what you should be building.

Trim your fenders. It will be much easier and cheaper than lifting more.

Expect some pretty diverse answers... I am currently 3 linking my MJ. Clayton 3 link x-member and front axle bridge, but I did not want to run square arms due to the material strength. DOM is quite a bit stronger than the rolled square tube. I'll be in the set up for about the same cost as the clayton kit + my time welding/fabricating the links. I am having some issues related to frame link separation on the frame side (upper hitting floor limiting up travel), but it's partially due to my lift being 6.5"...the minimum recommended by clayton for their 3 link I think. With that said, I ran the rock krawler 3 link on my last rig. As far as bang for buck, I would say it wins. Granted, it does not come with a crossmember. I was tempted to run it again but decided longer arms would suit my build better. Hopefully I'll be right.

I'm hoping to have it "done" by spring. Once I get the suspension dialed (did most last night) the existing drivelien will come out and I'll start swapping in the 99 parts. I'm also hoping to have it professionally painted before winter...which is going to really hurt my wallet, but the truck needs it. Mileage on axles is about 10k, mileage on original comanche engine/trans is around 95k, mileage on red berry's donor engine/trans/case is just shy of 94k.

Got a bit done since my last update... Pulled the D35 and CAD D30 and got the truck in the air: Celebrated 'Murica Burned in some front unibody reinforcement: Mocked up the Clayton 3 Link crossmember: Burned on the front bridge/3 Link mount Cleaned up and painted the 8.25 And cleaned up the D30 Welded up the lower links. 2" OD 1/4' Wall DOM, johnny joints at both ends, app. 36.5" long Mocked up the upper Mocked up the 8.25 on the Barnes perches and realized that I did a really good job trimming my fenders and making clearance for the 35's. And put it on its own weight temporarilly The front is mocked up on 4.5" RE coils and 2" spacers. I didn't want to buy springs until I saw how high the rear would end up. Once the rear was SOA'd, I bought some 6.5" springs for the front. Problem is, these are the new 6.5" coils next to some older 3" lift coils. Crap. Unless the new springs are much stiffer, I might have been sent the wrong springs.

Get a bolt on steering box spacer for the inner frame side which replaces the factory aluminum one. JRC, IRO, C-Rok and plenty other places make them. For the outside, either make your own reinforcement from 1/8" or similar thickness steel, or buy the HD Offroad front unibody stiffeners and burn them onto the front unibody. Chances are the access holes in the stiffeners will not line up with the upper control arm bolt access if you're running short arms and have to worry about that sort of thing.

Buy Barnes or Ruffstuff. Antiwrap perches are the way to go (assuming SOA). If not, I think both make SUA perches too.

I have one that is 30.75" compressed/34" extended and one that is 29" compressed/32" extended (measured with u-joints straight on a flat surface). Both are from running/driving rigs, but have been sitting around in my garage for a year or two. Shipping to you for either would run about $20. If you're interested, send me a PM.

Buy as much welder as you can afford. A large unit can still do small stuff, but a small welder can't do big stuff. With a 110 machine, you'll be limited to 1/8" or 3/16" depending on output and whether you use shielding gas or not. Fluxcore can do slightly thicker material as compared to the same machine using shielding gas. I strongly recommend doing as much as you can with shielding gas. A MIG is pretty universal and easy to use. Do your research on google and weldingweb.com, you'll figure it out. I have a Thermal Arc TIG so plus one for them too. Stick to Thermal Arc, Miller, Lincoln and Hobart. Don't buy a harbor freight machine unless you want to throw money away.

The HD Offroad stiffeners are awesome. I put them on my old rig. Fix the crack on the bottom, maybe plate that too, weld on the stiffeners and you should be in fine shape.

Search the CSF part number in google, its a 1 1/4" core.

Alot of those ebay radiators are made in China and are of pretty poor quality. Some folks get lucky though. Ebay radiator has a 14 day return policy...and what seems like no actual warranty. Here is a CSF single row, same core thickness with a 2 year warranty for about the same money: http://www.amazon.com/CSF-1193-3251-Radiator/dp/B002M161CQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1405956203&sr=8-2&keywords=csf+radiator+jeep+comanche

My 4.0 with 33's and 3.55 gears was a slow pig. I can't imagine what a 4 banger would be like. You will definitely notice the increase in tire diameter.

Use a welding spoon behind your welds and you might be able to pull it off.