GonzoTheGreat

That must be an incredible feeling. Congrats on the first test drive! I love the attention to detail on this project. I'm happy to see that it's on the road!

I swear I just posted once

I always thought these look pretty uncomfortable. Some day id like to take the last few inches of an old bed and taillights and mount it to the wall, then have the tailgate drop down to form the bench with some upholstery on it. Then you can "park" the bench when you're not using it. I have the spare tailgates and lights, but I'm not ready to cut up a bed just yet.

If you could sell the xj to get two other vehicles on the road, I think that sounds a lot better than sitting on three half-finished jeeps indefinitely, and driving an explorer. You might regret selling an xj a little bit, but there's always another one.

Actually if you have a bore scope, and you could see the fork, you should probably do that check again but watch how the throwout bearing presses into the finger springs. Did the new pressure plate come with the LUK friction disc as a kit? If the disc didn't match the original, what are the chances the pressure plate matched the original? If theres nothing wrong with the clutch hydraulics (and they seem to be fine), then there has to be something wrong with the pressure plate or its spacing/thickness that's preventing it from disengaging. The throwout bearing looked ok?

I saw this awhile back on facebook. I saved the pics because I didn't know MJs were offered as chassis-cabs.

Green is wire loom clips Blue is wiper bracket/MAP Yellow I think is the bracket that holds the plastic screw receiver for the wiper cowl Black is engine grounding ribbon

That's what I was thinking too. The symptoms sound more like bad springs on the pressure plate. Its possible the slave is working, but when the throwout bearing pushes into the plate, there's no resistance and the fingers just bend.

I believe its 3/8 NPT and you can get a new piece of pipe the same length with the threads already cut on both ends at home depot. The threads on the hose end should keep the hose from sliding off, but you might want to double clamp it. I've used teflon tape with no problems. Teflon is good 'til like 400C or something like that, so coolant temps are no problem. That's how my '88 was when I got it, and I didn't know until 3 years later when I took the hose off to redo the cooling system, but since it worked, I just kept the pipe.

I think @boxyjeep makes something for this https://boxyjeep.com/products/jeep-cherokee-xj-ax-15-tunnel-cover-1984-2001 It lets you use the TJ boot. Is that what you're looking for? I don't think it was available when this thread died in 2013

One single click when you cut the wheel? Or a tick-tick-tick-tick-tick when the wheel is already turned? When you did the track bar was there any play in the bolt hole on the axle end? That would cause the former. If its the latter, I would look at steering u-joints they would have visible play in them to start talking to you like that. ball joints don't often go bad without a lot of hard miles and/or offroad abuse.

gray 2.5L 4x4 auto I found this vin saved back in 2014 in my google account. It was from either Sams pick apart in worcester, ma, or RPM in Thompson, CT. Either way, its long gone to the crusher now.

I'm going through old stuff i had saved in my google account from like 10 years ago and found this VIN. I'm fairly certain it was from the now-defunct junkyard, RPM in thompson, CT. They had 3 MJs, but i think the '89 was white if memory serves. If I'm wrong and this one was blue, then it was in a junkyard in Worcester, MA and ill post a couple pictures.

I saw this guy on MX rt1 in Loreto, BCS parked on the street. Not sure who owns it, as there are quite a few houses, but its in fairly decent shape. This is a real XJ-heavy region, so i feel like you could keep an MJ alive for a long time around here. Ill keep an eye out for the owner over the next few weeks and see if i can say hola.

That one took me a second...

Thanks Mike. I should have known. They're even available in stainless! Cool!

I would take everything off, more for the chance at a thorough cleaning/inspection of the mating surfaces than ease of access. NAPA usually has exhaust hardware in stock. They're all 3/8 X 16 so you could piece a kit together yourself though. I would reuse those stock spring washers. I haven't found a place to buy replacements, and they're pretty unique.

If you want blank ones, here is an option.

I think it's unnecessary and unsightly. It doesn't seem to protect anything, and collects residues and road grime. New hoses don't come with it. I've seen the upper hose come with a plastic loom as a chafe guard, but the lower hose should not be touching anything, and therefore shouldn't need protection. If it looks like it might contact something, you can probably twist it away from making contact. Just my opinion, but I say say chuck it.

This thing is super cool! Thanks for posting. I think the one criterion to be met is "is the vehicle an MJ?" and if the answer is yes, then it goes into the registry.

Worst part of the entire job.

If you run the the stock slip yoke on the driveshaft, the pinion angle should be parallel to the output shaft of the t-case. If you install a slip yoke eliminator, and run a double cardan joint that's when you should angle the pinion directly toward the t-case.

When does it click? Always, or just when turning? Are you 100% sure the sound is coming from the pump? A mechanic's stethoscope can help, if there's any doubt.