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Everything posted by maddzz1
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We have 10 signed up right now and my brother and his wife are supposed to sign up tonight so that will give us the 12 we need. THE DRAFT IS TOMORROW. If you havent ranked your players yet, do it now. Have fun and don't be upset when I start beating up on everyone. :redX: :popcorn:
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No Radio or Clock memory
maddzz1 replied to WahooSteeler's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
where might i find the above referenced items? are you saying this should be visible on the back of the clock? They are just in the fuse box. But when my dome fuse blew my clock went out too. Even tho the fuse in the the power accs/clock slot was still good. So I was just suggesting that you check the wires running to/from both of these slots in the fuse box. -
For the trac bar, Where the tie rod end on the trac bar goes into the bracket at the frame. Inside the bracket you have to pull the cotter pin and then just try and tighten it down with a ratchet. If you have a front kid plate it is easier to get to if you remove it.
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I need Help!! adjustments....
maddzz1 replied to jeep_freek88's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
Is there a chance you hit the inner axle seal when putting the axle back in. So now the axle isnt staying centered. I have never pulled an axle so i don't know if that would cause your problem; just throwing stuff out there. -
Sorry. It was on page one. http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=8989
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No Radio or Clock memory
maddzz1 replied to WahooSteeler's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
The clock has a double fuse. There is one that says dome and the other says power accs then says clock with an arrow pointing to it. Check both of them. -
Look at this write up: http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/view ... c&start=15
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I had alot of play on one side also. My trac bar was extremely loose at the frame end. Couldnt really feel it by hand but when I put a ratchet on it and started tightening it became very obvious how loose it was. It felt like new truck after tightening it up.
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I need Help!! adjustments....
maddzz1 replied to jeep_freek88's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
I have an 89 FSM and this is what it says: split-ring seat must be set to a depth of 5.23mm (0.206 in). Measure the depth at the indicated location on the ring seat to the machined lower outer surface surrounding the steering knuckle ball joint bore. Hope that helps. -
I need Help!! adjustments....
maddzz1 replied to jeep_freek88's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
They are suppose to be screwd in to a certain depth. I think you are supposed to measure the depth with a micrometer. I will see if i can find anything in my FSM. -
I need Help!! adjustments....
maddzz1 replied to jeep_freek88's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
That is called a split ring seat. I don't think it adjusts anything. You can buy offset balljoints or inserts that help adjust caster angle. -
Thanks everyone.
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Can a few people check there grills and see if the screws are torx head or phillips head? I am trying to see if it changed over the year ( and mine has both) to gather info for the bolt/screw stickie. Thanks, jim
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Good deal moog is the way to go. Mine are in the parts pile waiting. I got my uppers from someone on craigslist for $60 then i ordered my lowers from rockauto. Wdae, that is a great price for moogs. There is a guy on ebay that has MOOG written in huge letters on the auction. They were real cheap so i emailed him and he says they are omix ada. So i emailed him back asking him why he has them listed as moog and doesnt he feel it is dishonest and false advertising then i reported him to ebay. of course, he never replied to my email
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great. it could have been alot worse. congrats.
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So when it was running without a thermostat it wasnt overheating/running hot?
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-Screws from inside molding along door jamb: #8 1.5" self-drilling modified truss head (similar to washer head) screw -Grill- 3/4" phillips head hi-lo thread Transfer case fill/drain plugs- 30mm 12point socket -Valve Cover Bolts- 1/4" X 20 UNC -2 bolts on top of bellhousing- E12 external torx -steering box bolts- 7/16-14x4
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I hear ya. there was an empty lot next to my house since my grand parents had it built in the 40s. Then in like 85 they build a house there and these 400lb people move in, start squeezing out kids( you didn't even know she was pregnant till she came home with a kid). Then they would ask me to move my car when i parked in front of there house. Of course i said no. All they do is scream and the 400lb lady walks around in a bathing suit :ack: :eek:
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removing the rear brake adjustment system
maddzz1 replied to wolfpackjeeper's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
here you go: http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/view ... prop+valve -
removing the rear brake adjustment system
maddzz1 replied to wolfpackjeeper's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
If you are talking about removing the height adjuster from the rear axle then you need plug one of the holes on the prportioning valve and only run one line to the back. I'm not sure which hole to plug, i will try and find the thread. And you keep the MJ prop valve. -
That woud be a fun project. Id love to have that thing
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If you stand at the passenger side fender looking at the cap the plug in the six oclock position is #1. Then moving clockwise its 5,3,6,2,4
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Looks like it ended without a bid, so he might re-list it. I've never seen one of those however. It relisted 2X then sold. I don't know why i didnt grab it for $20. I already have all 4 FSM's for my 89 but that is a little different.
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Anybody have one of these: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... 0044813705
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Purple Firefish, but he didn't make it... I think my Flame Angel (the Orange/Red/Black) was beating him up and he jumped out of the tank one evening. http://www.fishlore.com/profile-purplefirefish.htm Sounds like a rough neighborhood in there.
