gogmorgo

They only built about 1000 of them. '93 and '94 only. You do see them come up for sale from time to time, but yeah, it's a pretty rare occurrence. Maybe two to three times a year across the continent. This one was only about four hours away, and I jumped as soon as I saw it, within a couple hours of it going up for sale. The guy said he got a couple hundred calls about it between me and responding, I was the first who said I'd pay asking price and could be there that night with a trailer.

I took a bit of a peak underneath and there's so much snow from smashing through plow rows that I can't see anything. The new tires are awesome. 👍 Fired up just fine at -20°F just on its own. But the street's getting reall narrow so it's moved off the street now and out of the way of the plows, to a place I can plug it in for the night. -25°F low (so not so bad) and -45°F windchills expected, not that the Jeep cares much about the wind.

Is that commentary on the factory tow hooks? Those are the Rusty's version, Mopar is NLA, but this is the parts diagram. From online reviews, it looks like the Rusty's kit has parts 4 and 8, but is missing #1, the reinforcement plate. Also part 15. But looking at things just now, I'm starting to think part 15 is the possibly a tie-down bracket (parts manual calls it "TOE EYE, front"), and so may be present already, and then plate #1 might already be there. I haven't actually checked. It's due for an oil change soon so I'll likely wait till then. We got 18" of snow this weekend and now it's about -20°F with much lower windchill, and I've already had enough crawling under vehicles outside in the snow in the last few weeks. Yeah I'm getting soft. Whether plate #1 actually provides reinforcement or is just holding the nuts together, I'm uncertain, but the manual does call it "PLATE, Reinforcement Tow Hook". The primary advantage of the Kevin's Off-road design is it ties both sides together, although it does also provide some bash protection for the radiator. But the drawbacks include loosing the attachment points for the bottom edge of the bumper cover, and having to trim a bit to get at the shackles. I also saw someone mention loosing the angle supports for the front edge of the fenders. I'm not really building a wheeling rig, just a more-competent-than-average daily driver, and don't really want to go full mall crawler with it. Keeping stock appearance is semi-important to me. The most probable scenario of me getting stuck with it would involve shovelling out a bunch of snow before I give anything a real hard yank, and if I'm recovering anyone, the newer recall-installed trailer hitch will be doing that job.

Great. Now I have to figure out which one has the clutch problem. The MJ does have the clutch that came on the YJ engine still on it. The disc had more meat left on it, and I was feeling lazy swapping the engine (in the driveway, in the dark and winter) so I took a couple shortcuts like that. Might be part of it I guess. I wouldn't have thought the clutches would be different. I don't really remember the MJ's clutch being super light before the engine swap, but then I didn't really drive it much. My ZJ has no crazy electrical issues... knock on wood. But also with zero electrical options it better not, haha. I've sort of been looking for a factory tow hook setup, just not looking too hard... No real wrecking yards in my area. The couple aftermarket options seem to be missing some of the factory reinforcement brackets, or else they're way more intense than I'd want on just a daily that I'm trying to keep as intact as possible, like the Kevin's off-road radiator support thing. I also want to keep all the plastics, etc, on it. I'm not trying to build a wheeling rig, but I'm more comfortable with designated recovery points at both ends, you know?

Well, bit of an update. I was getting sick of the lifted+ stock tire look, and frankly wasn't excited about the snow/ice traction of the Terra Trac II's I'd stuck on it for lack of any other reasonable (free) non-winter options back when I bought it. Nothing wrong with them, they're just not particularly winter friendly. So this happened: Grabber ATX in a 31x10.5. Mounted on the Littlest MJ's factory wheels, that came loose in the bed. Just a small difference from before with the 235/75/15s. Maybe you can't really tell, but this weekend was maybe not the best for tire changing... My everything is wet. But after going for a drive, damn, do they ever make a difference. And it's been great weather to test them out. The performance disadvantage is very noticeable, even in this weather. I swear, I only stalled twice... But first gear is much more usable now, in that I now make it almost to the other side of the intersection before I need to shift, instead of being done with it after twenty feet. The ride is also a bit harsher. The sidewalls on these are pretty stiff, to the pointing mounting them was on the difficult side. But I'd say traction in 2wd is now about what it was in 4x4 on the Terras, even still with the open diff. And it feels way better than the KO2's on my old Jimmy ever did, although that's a somewhat different animal and it was a year ago. I've still got a Truetrac sitting around that still needs installed in the d35, and with that and the tires, I bet this ZJ will be pretty much unstoppable in the snow. You'll have to look earlier in the thread for before photos. The stance is good, although it's more apparent I need to correct the saggy rear springs. Slight rubbing at full steering lock, but not nearly what the MJ had with AT2's in a 235/75r15. I'm pretty happy, to say the least.

I can't seem to make the video work on my device. I've tried a couple browsers. Usually I find uploading to YouTube (with privacy set to unlisted) more useful for cross-platform compatibility. No big though, I trust Minuit's interpretation. Colder weather than typical could potentially make a failing temp sensor more obvious, although 9°F isn't really cold enough to make a huge difference, at least not in my mind. I'd reset the codes and see if it comes back before doing anything else. I have had 22 trigger a CEL for me, although in my case it was the opposite end of the range, getting the engine hot enough with no coolant that it assumed there was a problem. I almost wonder if not heating up in a "reasonable" time frame could trigger the code. If some water froze up in the fan relay causing it to stick, I can see that causing the 35, and the fan running could have lead to poor heat build up, but that's just a guess. But it's worth pointing out that having the vents set to defrost also triggers the a/c to help dehumidify the air, and I'm pretty sure the a/c will trigger the aux fan. Have you been seeing symptoms of thermostat failure? Like is it really slow to build heat, or does it run way hot? Again I wouldn't do anything until I confirmed the code 22 was hanging around unless there were other symptoms. Code 22 didn't kill my engine, just fired the CEL. I've never had a 76 myself, but a fuel pump circuit failure will kill the engine. It wouldn't hurt to clean up the ground behind the driver's side taillight, and check the ballast resistor, or just bypass it. There's also a connector for the fuel pump that would have been unplugged during the change, down by the sending unit assembly that's worth checking if symptoms persist. If it wasn't quite plugged in right, the seal could have been compromised. For what it's worth, I've never had any code come up without a 12 displaying. It seems to be the ECU's way of saying "hey something happened". When the battery gets disconnected you get 12 and 55, like "hey something happened but nothing seems to be wrong". As far as it not restarting without a jump, what was it doing? Did it crank and not fire, or was it acting like a dead battery? Maybe it got mad you called it a car?

Yeah... Just makes me dislike the new one more.

-24°C here this morning. This weekend it hit 12° and it was brutal. Too hot, things got messy, and then dangerous. Back to normal now though. But like Dirty says, it's been fairly mild so far. We've been getting snow since September like always, but it didn't really start to hang around until December... And then did it ever. We've had more avalanche closures on the highways already this winter than we did all last season, and it's not even peak avalanche time yet. But we had about three weeks solid of -30 or lower this time last year, and I don't think I've seen it even hit -27 yet. Don't know what the windchill factor is, couldn't care less. Throw on a jacket and it doesn't much matter. It's funny hearing people complain about electric heat. Growing up that's all we had, in a drafty 100 year old house no less. Didn't really seem to break the bank. Before I moved to Oilberta I'm not sure I had any other form of heat.

Well clearly. That's just someone's chopped ZJ, not a concept of an actual truck built on the same chassis.

mine's more base than yours... Factory a/c delete! Does your vent selector find multiple mystery positions in the blank part of the dial like mine does? Wiper switch seems good for now. I've got these seats: They look pretty similar to yours, just with vinyl backs. As to whether it's got a "long pinion" d30 or not, I don't really know. I guess I can compare it to one of the other d30s I've got kicking around, but they're all high pinion and the ZJ isn't. But what I can tell you is that mine isn't one of the '92.5s. August of '92 makes it a '93 model. I realize they were all '93s, but there was supposedly a distinct shift after a few months of production, where some interior options and a handful of tiny things got changed out. There's a way to tell in the series numbers on the VIN whether it's a '92.5 or a '93, but I don't remember what exactly it is. 11th digit as a 7 or higher or something maybe? I don't really remember. I can't say mine's the favourite in the fleet, that honor probably goes to one of the MJs, but I do like it quite a bit. It's nice that I know I'm driving something fairly unique, without anyone really realizing it. It definitely feels special. I've got one question for you, does your clutch feel pretty heavy? Most of the clutches I've been driving are in class 8 trucks lately, which isn't the best comparison, haha. The difference between my 2.5 MJ and the ZJ is... a lot. After driving the 2.5 around, the ZJ feels like I'm trying to push through glue, and then getting back into the MJ it feels like there's no pressure in the clutch at all, even though it's working normally. It's been too long since I've driven the 4.0 XJ to compare.

I've always wondered if AMC had a second-gen MJ in the works. AMC was pretty far along in ZJ development by the time Chrysler took over, and had intended it only to be a second generation XJ, not a new product line. We know Chrysler had no desire to build the MJ, given they had another vehicle in the segment that cost them less to build, and they could sell the XJ for a much higher dollar while the MJ took up spots on that line. The MJ's discontinuation coincides with the launch of the ZJ, and Chrysler was also looking at winding down XJ production. It's mostly a happy coincidence they were able to build the ZJ in a new plant, and that people were still buying the XJ. With nothing better to build on the XJ assembly line and it continuing to sell, the XJ kept on going. So under Chrysler, the MJ had no chance at continuation. But I do wonder if there'd been consideration for a second generation MJ on the ZJ platform. Whether or not AMC recognized they were losing money by building MJs instead of XJs and didn't think it was worth continuing the light truck line or not. And I also wonder what a ZJ Comanche, an NJ if you will, might have looked like. Would it have the ZJ's rear links and coils, or given the need to redesign for more payload, if they'd have stuck with leaf springs? Would it have received the v8 option, maybe even with a manual? Would it still have the part-frame and bolt-on bed, or would they have just integrated it with the body? As with any SUV there's been ZJ truck conversions, some better than others of course. I don't think they look half-bad... But all we can do at this point is wonder.

Well, time for a slightly more optimistic photo dump than the last. Still some bugs to be worked out. You can see the puddle of power steering fluid leaking. Also the wheels bumped up against the curb to stop it from rolling because the parking brake is no good... I can only get away with that so often, and I may need to toss some bricks in just in case. I don't really know why my coworker thinks he needs such a giant truck. Sure it's got a back seat, but the bed's the same length, and he can only get one sled on his deck without exceeding his rear axle weight rating anyhow, so what's the point of the bigger truck that can't haul more sleds than the little MJ? I don't get it. I gotta say, I'm a bit nervous driving it in traffic without a rear bumper. I haven't bothered finding out whether or not it's a factory delete or just long gone. The license plate light is just a generic Grote one that looks like it was added along the way somewhere. But I'm a bit less concerned about the bumper when I remember that almost every other vehicle on the road will be far better at stopping than this one. I'm not entirely convince I'll be able to get that down if necessary. I popped the LSV rod off the diff, and put it back the way it should be. No before photo. Braking seems to have improved a little after doing that, but it's still pretty sketchy. Stopping at stop signs and lights isn't a big deal, but a panic stop may be a bit beyond its capabilities. Level in the master cylinder was low, but not tragic, but the brake fluid is blacker as sin. Brake pedal feel improves as I get to the bottom of travel, so I'm thinking a good bleed will sort the brakes... Assuming I can crack the bleeders. Just looking through the callipers, the pads and rotors look acceptable. Not sure about the drums. Something is grinding as I brake, but there's still some good rust on the rotors from sitting that I think/hope is what's making the noise. When I shuffle the wheels around, I'll definitely be popping the drums off. Something else I'd like to address is the lack of cupholders. I've seen a couple good solutions for that on here, might have to give one a whirl. With the power steering puking as bad as it does, steering became a bit of a challenge one-handed towards the end of the day. And of course the inevitable. The evidence someone may have addressed rust in the past and the fact it's still present is a touch unsettling. The floor pans are going because of course they are. Both cab corners have spots, the driver's rocker is starting, and the passenger rocker looks to be on its way out. But overall it's a very solid truck for $700, even if I did have to swap out the engine. And yes, those chunks of rust on the ground are most definitely the exhaust disintegrating. The cat's heat shield is also going. So yes, there are some bugs to work out still. But it's running and driving, and I'm pretty pumped about that.

In "dark charcoal" I think it's called, for my '91. Would need shipped to Jasper, AB, Canada, T0E1E0. Thanks.

It is! It made it to work and back no problem. Brakes are sketchy as hell, but they will stop it... ... ... .... eveeeentuaaalllyyyyy.... I took it out on the highway for the first time on the way home from work, got it up to an indicated 110 km/h. Pretty good shimmy but the tires were a little low and probably square from sitting. I still need to order tires for the ZJ and then I can do some wheel shuffling and get the little winters on Jeep wheels on this guy instead of the other MJ, and ditch the silly aftermarket wheels. I'm also starting to have second thoughts on the 2wd thing. I may or may not have gotten stuck in my own driveway today I forgot to take pictures at work in the daylight. Tomorrow's another new day.

Since its been brought up, I did have my parts XJ do the same thing when I drove it out here last winter (at -40 no less). I had marginal heat (well, warmer than ambient) out of the defrosters, and some degree of bent control, but what little warmth there was was gone by the time it hit the floor vents. While changing out the alternator I discovered that vacuum line at the battery was broken off, and a screw had been shoved into the engine side, only partially plugging the line. I found the other end and joined the two with a chunk of heat shrink tube. I can't say I had great heat after that, but it was pretty good after sitting in the thing for a couple days with not much heat to speak of. The vacuum controls not only the vent selector, but also operates and that heater valve.

There's a small chunk of rubber line between the pump and the tank outlet that can deteriorate. Ethanol gas isn't always great for some older rubbers. If the pump sounds like it's running strong and you don't even have a trickle, that's what my guess would be, especially if it happened instantly, and didn't just start gradually leaning out.

My dad has a collection of National Geographics, dating back to the First World War. I think he traded a pine tree to his college library for them, or something. Every issue from January 1916 up until the '70's. It really is interesting watching how the ads change without changing over time. I also find it really cool because some of them are advertising trips to places near where I live, and I still recognize some of the tour companies today as local businesses, and it really shows how this whole area was developed almost entirely by tourism.

That's too bad. We had the odd whispy cloud, but mostly clear. My roommate was out there for a while and took a bunch of photos, I didn't even bother trying with my phone.

Missed this earlier. It wasn't all that bad, except the parts where I was laying on the ground underneath it weren't great. Grabbing cold tools with oily nitrile gloves was a bit rough too, but not so bad as long as I wiped the cloves every so often on a shop towel. I've done some stuff outdoors at -30°F, and this wasn't bad at all in comparison. Mostly I'm just giving myself grief for having too much junk in my garage to work in.

Yeah I'm pretty sure that's what it is. The PO told me he'd had the exhaust redone about three or four years back I think. It looks professionally done, just a bottom-dollar job with mild steel pipe. Not optimal in this climate. But BIG NEWS. I just took it on a grocery run. 12 whole blocks without puking out all the coolant! The $150 YJ engine was running a bit rough at first, but I let it idle until it had melted itself out from under the snow drift on the windshield, and by then it had smoothed out quite a bit. Little bit of chatter to it, but seems to be doing pretty good. There's a small exhaust leak from the manifold-downpipe connection I think, but no big. The power steering pump works fine but is making a TON of racket (reservoir's full though) and the brakes definitely need attention. That or I have zero traction, one or the other, or both I suppose. We got fresh snow this weekend, enough to pack down nicely on the driving lanes but not quite enough for them to pay the drivers overtime I guess. I've got the stock-size winters for the ZJ kicking around so I'll toss those on. 215/75r15s, on steel Jeep wheels. OEM on the base model ZJ, hilariously tiny on it with the 2" lift, but they'll be great on this little guy, and then I can stick those silly aftermarket wheels on the parts XJ so it's mobile again. It also needs a mirror robbed off the XJ, windshield is tragic like all vehicles in this province. I also need to pick up another 14 psi rad cap. Don't know where the old one went, and the 16psi cap off the parts XJ doesn't seem to seat properly, and doesn't shut off the overflow to let pressure build. The clutch seems ridiculously light, too, to the point I almost suspect something's wrong with it, but I suppose I've only got the ZJ and a handful of class 8 trucks lately to compare to so that may just be me... Anything is light compared to a class 8, haha. look at him, sitting there, parked on the street, waiting patiently to take me to work in the morning, like a normal vehicle. It's great to be back behind the wheel of an MJ again. And with that, I say this calls for a thread retitle.

Well I didn't search on the us Amazon page initially, I searched on Amazon.ca and when that brought up nothing I just changed the .ca to .com. Usually that will work (or at least in reverse) but I guess not so much this time. And given you can pair Doc Martens with anything, maybe I do have the shoes to go with... it would be a sight to behold. Although as I mentioned I did take a peak at the sizing and well, to put it mildly I suspect you'd behold a little more than you'd want to.

I must have done something wrong, because this is the only apparel that came up for me: https://www.amazon.com/Sedrinuo-Sexy-Sleeve-Dresses-Women/dp/B073GW4LX7/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1?keywords="comanche+club"&qid=1548004291&sr=8-1-fkmr1 It looks nice, but it doesn't come in my size, and I don't think I can really pair it with anything else I own anyway.

https://xjjeeps.com For other parts manual needs. Found it in our own DIY index To save you hunting, the manual just calls it "FITTING, vacuum." 3300 4175. Quick search for the part online was inconclusive. Interestingly the same number also refers to a part that looks like it serves a similar function but also looks totally different on a diagram called " CCV System 2.5 Carbureted Engine Cherokee 1993"... Whatever that means. But at any rate, I pulled out the one from my '91 MJ 2.5L, that externally looks identical to the ones in both my '92 YJ engines. Clear shot straight through it, just looks like an 1/8" NPT hose barb, but that's just a guess on the size. Hardware store part, nothing fancy. But like, I suppose I could send you one of my "genuine" ones, if you really wanted.

Easiest way to tell the knuckles apart is the old ones have bolt-on caliper brackets, but on the new ones the callipers bolt straight to the knuckle. You can't use the older callipers on the newer knuckles, so going from the old to new means also changing callipers, rotors, and hubs, like Eagle says. Finding used parts has been a bit of an adventure here in Alberta. Seems you almost have to know someone for people to talk to you. Shopping on kijiji you almost have to buy complete vehicles. The fb groups have stuff, but if you try to talk to them when you're not in Edmonton or Calgary, it's like they don't want to have anything to do with you even if you say "I will drive to you and pull it myself if I have to". It took me like four months to track down a 2.5L for my MJ. IIRC the early knuckles had a removable tapered sleeve for the ball joints that threaded in, so there was a replaceable wear surface if your taper got oversized. I don't know how likely it is your taper gets worn larger though, and I can imagine it being a right b*@ch to get that sleeve out if you have even a modicum of salt on your roads, so it likely wasn't worth the bother.