gogmorgo

The most noticeable aspect of shifting to 4L is the gear reduction, less so the wheels engaging. Unless you’ve got the wheels off the ground or you’re digging two holes in a soft surface it can be hard to tell for sure. Sometimes the lower gearing will give you torque to climb things and make you think it’s engaging the front axle when it isn’t.

Are you positive it’s engaging the front axle in low-range? I’d suspect a CAD problem.

Did you do a load test on the battery?

Unless you know someone was in there swapping your wires around, this is unlikely to be your issue. What exact problem are you having?

This is the thread for backyard visitors, right? A family of three little black bears came to monch my lawn. Looked like a cinnamon mama, and a black cub each from this year and last. The cubs were pretty camera shy. Only got their eyeshine with the flash, didn’t even see the smallest cub until chasing them away.

Are you sure you hooked up the lights correctly? The dual filament bulbs use the dim filament for the parking lights and the bright one for the turn signal. If you hook them up opposite, the turn signals will be dim, but the markers will come on nice and bright, but might be so bright you don’t notice the signal filaments coming on. It’s also possible to hook up the ground to one of the filaments, which will cause it’s own set of issues. I wouldn’t rely on wire colours to establish what’s what, especially not from a Haynes manual that covers a broad spectrum of model years. I would use a test light on the truck harness, see what comes on solid with the headlights, what blinks with the turn signals, and the other will be your ground. You can also test what each wire on the socket is for by putting power and ground to the wires. Start by grounding any of the three wires and put power to one of the other two. If nothing lights up you have a problem with something. If both filaments light dimly, the wire you have nothing hooked to is your ground. Otherwise, trial and error to pick which one is the ground, and which ones light up the bright and less bright filaments. In most cases you don’t want to just push power willy-nilly into things to see what they do, but in the case of these dual-filament bulbs you won’t create a dead short and it’s no big deal to accidentally run the filaments in series, which is the worst case outcome so long as you only have two wires hooked up at a time. As far as cleaning up the sockets goes, I’ve never had much success. If it’s just full of old dried up grease, hit it with brake cleaner, but if you’re scrubbing corrosion off it’s almost impossible to get enough pressure on it without spreading the contacts.

Because it hasn’t been addressed and we’re talking about a bed camper, payload when new was standard at 1400lbs, metric ton at 2200lbs. Legally that’s all it’s good for, no matter what upgrades you do. The difference between the two for the added load is springs, shocks, and rear axle. For my camper build I was originally planning metric ton springs, although now I’m leaning toward standard capacity springs with airbags in place of the bump stops to keep the ride height the same so I’m not screwing around with headlight aim any time I drop the camper in. My build’s a long way off though at this point.

I don't really know what the situation was on the other side of the truck, couldn't see that direction at all, but I was doing all the driving, steering with my left hand, pedals with my right foot. There was a smaller guy sitting on the trans tunnel with his feet in the passenger footwell, and a girl sitting somewhat on him but mostly on my right thigh with her legs between mine who was harder than hell to see around.

Didn’t miss it… it’s the same 28mm sway bar the ZJ used, that I mentionned above I’ve got installed in my long bed. Although mine came from the junkyard instead of buying new. It’s an excellent option for sure.

I just did some digging into the land speed record Comanche, and it looks to me like it’s actually still sitting on top of four FIA records. It’s hard to say for sure though because they shuffled the records classes. At the time the LSR MJ was class A-II-9 (automobiles, n/a Otto cycle, displacement 3-5L) but they’ve broken out the displacements into a few narrower ranges since and haven’t published new records after doing so. But on the previous list as of 2014 or so the MJ still held the record for 1/4 mile standing start at 53.016 mph / 85.321 km/h 1/2 km standing start at 58.987 mph / 94.930 km/h 1 km standing start at 74.542 mph / 119.964 km/h 10 km standing start at 125.003 mph / 201.173km/h Getting records FIA certified is a big process, which is likely why the MJ wasn’t unseated as I’m pretty sure there’s a wide range of production cars that could achieve the same if not better numbers today. No one is doing standing start land speed records either because you get a higher speed with a flying start and everyone’s chasing the big numbers. So the Comanche is likely only still there because no one bothered unseating them. There’s a bunch of official records dating a long way back for the same reason, just impractical or undersirable to achieve, like the Citroen that averaged 104km/h across 100,000km back in 1932. (Six drivers working in shifts doing laps around an oval track for 40 days straight!) Frankly the 1/4 mile speed is kinda low because it only works out to a 17-second pass, but considering it was a standing start on salt, not a prepped drag strip, with a truck geared for top end speed and not acceleration, that’s still impressive. Source: https://www.fia.com/sites/default/files/basicpage/file/Category A_2.pdf

I’ve seen it happen more than a few times, a spot will rub through the rubber sheath and salt and road grime gets in. No issue until that one time in ten years someone tries to use the parking brake, it applies just fine but then the return springs aren’t strong enough to pull the rusty cable back through the rusty sheath, and the brake drags.

5” wider if that’s the case might be a consideration. On stock wheels, the 31’s on my ZJ just slightly rub the sway bar. It would be problematic if the sway bar stuck out an extra couple inches on each side. Also I see no reason not to want a stiffer sway bar for a lifted vehicle if it’s being street driven. Taller means more body roll. Run disconnects (or just unbolt and tie up end links) for flexing off-road.

I have no experience with the WJ sway bar, but I found the 28mn bar off a ZJ was a noticeable improvement. I can only imagine one off a heavier WJ to be even better. But whether or not you notice depends on your driving style. I just changed out a broken end link on a friend’s XJ, and the only thing she noticed was the noise the broken link was making banging against the sway bar, because she drives like there’s a card castle in the back she doesn’t want to knock over… never goes around corners fast enough to know what normal body roll feels like, and she’s put over 100k miles on the thing. Most people are somewhere between the two extremes.

0.02A is not a lot. I don't know if there's a proper spec for an MJ, but as a general rule that's acceptable. A typical group 34 battery in good health should be able to put out that much current for well over a month before you have issues starting. Have you tested the battery?

Interesting. I'm currently going through an a/c course. We kinda glossed over converting from R12 to 134a, but one thing the instructor mentioned was that we should always change all seals and hoses while doing it in addition to everything else, and his justification was that R134a molecules are larger and can escape through hoses that would contain R12. The TSB doesn't say hoses should be replaced, only the seals, and it looks like only the seals for components that were replaced. Makes me wonder if the issue with the hoses is more one of replacing 30-year-old hoses because they're 30-year-old hoses than anything else, unless the molecule size is new info since the TSB, that or not as big an issue as my instructor made it out to be. Also, when the subject of topping up R12A or other "universal" refrigerants came up, the big concern was that it becomes very difficult to get the correct charge in the system. With an unknown mixture of gasses in the system, the "correct" pressures won't be predictable, and it's difficult to judge charge level by pressure anyhow because refrigerant pressure is temperature dependent and the temperatures vary widely across the system and need monitored very precisely. It's possible to get the system to function by following the instructions on the can, but it's going to be very difficult to get the system working correctly, making future diagnosis more difficult. The concern about pressures and temperatures is why you should always start with a fully vacuumed out system and fill based on weight, not just with pressure gauges, even if you know exactly what you're putting in the system.

Also could be a plugged filter or pickup sock. It's unlikely but possible that the gas blends this side of the border have loosened up some old junk in the tank and sucked it into the system. I've also seen a lot of in-tank hoses fail shortly after a pump change. The stress of pulling the old hose off can compromise it if it wasn't already on its way out. It's also not uncommon to see non-submersible fuel line used which doesn't last long when it's sitting in gas. But IIRC the Bosch pump comes with a new chunk of submersible hose so if it is a problem it probably just popped off.

I just did it through my bank’s mobile app. Took all of five minutes.

Good reminder I need to go check my mail. I'm waiting on a new card as well, I got hit a couple weeks ago, $200 spent on onlyfans. Scammers must be lonely people, lol.

You changed the wheel bearings on the rear axle? Usually if one bearing goes in an axle the metal floating around in oil takes out the rest of the bearings in pretty short order. You don't typically get away only changing out the one bearing, usually if you start looking into it you'll find the rest warrant changing out as well. With as much play between the ring and pinion as you have, plus the metal floating around, they'll have worn out the contact surfaces and they'll need changed too. If you don't change out all the gears and bearings you'll probably be back in there within the next few thousand miles for something else... or the same things again. That unfortunately is going to include your new wheel bearings. Setting up new gears yourself isn't difficult, but it does take precision. Thousandths of an inch can mean the difference between the diff lasting 500,000 miles or blowing up within 50 miles. It's possible to follow instructions online and get it dialled, but it's definitely better to have someone around who knows what they're doing to keep things on track. It's also critical to clean out the entire housing to get all the metal shrapnel out to stop it happening again. It's an excellent idea to get a magnet in there as well once you've rebuilt to collect anything that was missed. To answer the initial question, no, there should be absolutely no movement in the carrier or any component, other than rotating in their normal direction. The carrier bearings keep the carrier fixed in place. But they're not the only component in the system that does that. The carrier bearing shims have two functions. The first is setting the preload on the carrier bearings, to ensure zero end play (no side-to-side motion in the carrier) and the second is to locate the ring gear relative to the pinion. The gears want to push apart under load, so the preload, having no play, is critical to keeping the gear contact pattern where you want it. If anything is moving around at all, there's absolutely no way to keep the ring and pinion contacting the way they should, which will destroy the gears.

Availability of tires in any size has been hurt by the pandemic. We weren't able to get trailer tires at all for our light fleet at work for a few months this summer through any of our wholesalers, and we've started needing to stockpile steer tires for the highway plows because it's taking close to a month to get them in when it used to be overnight. The more popular sizes and brands in light truck tires are sold out all the time. If anything the less popular sizes have been more available, although even they're starting to sell out. But let's face it, it's been ten years since the last new truck was sold with a 15" wheel. The only ATs I can find in a 225/75R15 are the Toyo Open Country AT3, the Goodyear Wrangler Trailrunner AT, and the Kelly Edge A/T which is apparently a discount Goodyear brand. and a handful of all-seasons and winters. The Grabber ATx lists a 225/70R15, and a 215/75R15, might be other options in that size. 235/75R15 is fairly commonly listed and usually the logical step up on the XJ but is definitely getting tougher to find lately as well, like anything else for a 15" truck wheel. I ended up with a set of 16" KJ wheels for my winters on my ZJ after giving up trying to find something close to a 31x10.5 for a 15" wheel.

No and no, although many of the local parts chains have the same program, but a few of them have paused it due to covid. Canadian Tire and Partsource for sure had the program, Lordco might have and is my prefered parts supplier if an option. I’ve seen reference to Napa renting out tools as well but my local one doesn’t. Probably better to call ahead. If you’re looking for cheap single-use tools for purchase, Princess Auto is the go-to, although any parts chain will have tools for sale.

Sorry… I was thinking if you were a bit closer I might have been able to offer a little more assistance, tools, etc, but I’m in Alberta. Can’t think of any forum members in the Vancouver area, either, at least not off the top of my head.

Out of curiosity, whereabouts are you?