gogmorgo

There are a bunch of threads for doing the same thing to the same parts on XJ's if you look around. I'd like to pull my doors off in the summer, but the issue I have is that for 80% of the year I really need the doors, and I need them to seal. I haven't found anyone else's write up on how to do it yet without cutting the bottom of the hinge off, which seriously compromises the whole sealing thing. I'll be looking further into it this summer. But if you don't care how your doors fit when you're done, http://naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=921410

There's so much heat shielding on the cat that it's really hard to tell what's going on from the outside. If you pull it off and look into it, it could be visibly clogged, but it's the same amount of work. Unless you get e-testing in your state, you could just put in a straight section of pipe. If it's just a visual inspection you may be able to get away with just putting a hole through the core and putting it back, but you'd never do that cause it's highly illegal, eh?

Awesome! If it's seen much offroad action (mud, water, dust) or even heavy weather, or someone a little over-zealous with a pressure-washer could have buggered them. More likely, it's 26 years old, one went out and then the other went out.

Better cocktail: In clay mug mix 3 oz. room temperature rye whiskey with 2 oz. room temperature rye whiskey. Float 1 oz. room temperature rye whisky on top. Enjoy.

Did you adjust the kick-down cable following the instructions in the link I posted? It only takes a few seconds and requires zero tools.

That's kinda what I meant by "poorly executed". It was mostly Mercedes, but they screwed something up because it wasn't selling. That's not to say it wasn't a decent ride. It also outsold the Solstice, so :dunno: And I new there was a reason that Compass didn't look too fast :yes:

There's no way to know for certain without testing. If the relay's clicking, that just means the issue lies somewhere in the horn part of the circuit and the horn button part is fine. I don't think it's all that likely your issue is a bad ground given the way it mounts, but you never know. Use a test light to make sure the horn connector gets power when the horn button is pressed. If you have power, then test the horn with the jumper wire. If it doesn't sound it's probably shot, but it can't hurt to unbolt it, clean up the mounting point, and bolt it back in to see if that helps. Alternatively you could run another jumper wire from the horn bracket to known good ground. If you don't get power to the horn connector when the button is pressed though, then you've got to start tracing the circuit back until you find out what's wrong. But you may as well test the horn anyhow... you never know, there could be more than one issue. Case in point, when I got my MJ, the horn didn't work. The relay tested bad, the horn connector was corroded, and the slip disk in the column was straight up missing. Given that your relay is clicking, it and the horn button on the steering column are fine, so don't go tearing into it.

IMO that doesn't look too bad, although it doesn't look too fast... Kinda like a Jeep version of the Scion XB. I like me some good muscle as well, and one of the few new cars I really would want right now is the CTS-V wagon, but they're all just a little excessive. Most of them I like, but I don't ever really see myself owning one. I would consider the 'Vette and Viper as GT cars, but that's just me and my racing addiction. That's where they race, in the GT classes, against expensive, high-power cars. By sports car, I'm thinking something fun and inexpensive while practical for daily use, light and nimble, doesn't suck fuel, etc. As awesome as having a Corvette would be, you can't really legally use it to it's potential on the streets. Something many people have said that I agree with, driving slow cars fast is more fun than driving fast cars slow. When I say sports car, I'm thinking something competitive with the Toyubaruion GT86/BRZ/FRS. The Pontiac Solstice / Saturn Sky was along those lines, but both were axed along with their brands, and very few Solstice Coupes were built. The GXP put out 260hp/260lb-ft, like the Cobalt SS, and that's more than adequate in a light car. Chrysler axed the poorly executed Crossfire, and Ford never brought anything to the table.

I pulled the door buzzer module out on mine a week after I bought it because it was irritating as all get out, but to each their own. Foot well lights as above, they go on the outer edges of the lower dash panel like so: As far as the headlight delay goes, I understand it to be called the "Headlight Sentinel" or something like that. I'm told it goes under the dash on the driver's side, near the headlight switch, but I can't confirm that.

There could actually be two horns, one on the left below the headlight, and one on the right. My '91 only had one horn, but it was on the passenger side. If you look straight up from under the truck towards the headlight, you should be able to see the horn. Looks like a snail shell. There may be a rubber/plastic trim piece (part of the fender liner I think?) in the way, but it'll pull backwards out of the way. Just remember to put it back. Check both sides to see if you've got one horn or two. As MJRemi says, most likely there's a bad connection somewhere. The horn grounds itself through the mount, so make sure it's bolted down tightly to clean bare metal. According to my wiring diagrams, there's a connector in the horn circuit somewhere (E2) but I've never looked for it. It's another possible corrosion point. It's also possible that moisture got into the horn itself and/or the horn simply doesn't work. To test the horn, unplug the connector from the horn itself and run a jumper wire from positive on the battery to where the connector goes. The horn should sound when power's put to it. If it doesn't, replace it. You can pick one up real cheap off of absolutely any car at a wrecker, although some horns have two terminals — one for power and the other for ground. Avoid testing horns late at night in a populated area... because reasons. While you've got the connector off, you may as well stuff a testlight probe into the end of it and check to see you get power when the horn button's pressed. Also, a cheap and easy horn upgrade if you've only got a single horn: Whether or not you've got a second horn, the wiring should be there for it. Both connectors are identical, and will be in more or less the same area on opposite sides of the truck. Use a testlight and a helper on the horn button to make sure you've got a horn connector (there are similar connectors for other things). Pick up a second horn, find some clean, bare metal to bolt it down, and plug it in. Woila, dual horns. It's typically recommended to point the open end downwards so it can drain, although I'd turn it as far as I can to the point where the opening points horizontally without it pointing upwards so I get maximum drainage around the curl. For best results, use a horn with a different note than the first. I've wired in an extra horn on one side for a three note chord. :thumbsup:

It wouldn't be perfect, but it'll do a decent enough job. Let it sit over night if you want to break up some of the sludge. It's honestly not that big a deal. You could leave it alone and just ignore the stuff in the bottom, and never notice. The second time you fill the can you wouldn't even know it had diesel in it.

I personally think you're going the wrong direction, restoring the Pioneer and turning the Eliminator into a trail rig, given that the Eliminator is the more collectible one, but they're your vehicles. Maybe it's because it's a '91 and things got a little fuzzy then, but my Pioneer has literally all of those things, except Eliminator buckets. It's just got regular vinyl buckets.. As I understand it, the Eliminator package put the 4.0L as standard (Pioneers could have the 2.5L), the specific (embroidered) bucket seats Eagle mentioned, specific wheels, and stickers on the sides. There are some other things, too, like before '91 you couldn't get them in very many colours or 4x4. But it was mostly an appearance package.

As you may have gleaned from the comments above, we're not quite sure what's happening, because we're not quite sure what's going on. So your MJ had a sketchy taillight harness. You replaced it with one from a junk yard. How did you attach it, did you cut and splice or did you unplug the connector and swap the whole thing, bulb sockets and everything? Did it come from another Comanche? The Cherokee ones aren't the same. Now your rear running lights don't work. Neither do your dash lights. Everything else does, though. What works when the headlights are on? What works when they're off? We're not sure. The headlight switch does a lot of things, but it has only three positions: Off. The switch is pushed in all the way. No lights should be on. Parking. The switch is pulled out to the first stop. Dash lights should come on, as should the parking lights and the side marker lights in the front. Taillights also come on. Headlights. Same as parking, just with headlights on. Which positions are you having trouble with? Here's a wiring diagram of the headlight switch itself, might help you out a bit. The colours may not reflect the colours of your wiring, but it should be the same circuits. The fact that your dash lights aren't working tells me that there could be an issue at the headlight switch. The headlight switch is the only place they're tied in to the rest of the harness. I'm assuming you know how to turn the headlight knob to dim/brighten the dash lights. The connectors for the headlight switch like to melt. Mine straight up set itself on fire not all that long ago. If it did melt, something could easily be shorted in there, causing all kinds of problems. Installing an upgraded headlight harness with relays is more than just a good idea, taking the load off the headlight switch and keeping everything cool and not liquid. If everything was working before the new taillight harness, though, it's unlikely that swapping it triggered anything. But we're not sure what all's going on. We do want to help, but it's hard to help when we don't know what's going on. I'd also point out that the tail light harness could have been hacked apart to "correct" the issue you're seeing, and that the rewiring made things work with what was there rather than properly fixing an issue. Typically with an electrical issue, you should start at the source of the electricity, and work your way "downstream" to make sure everything's hunky-dory. If you start the other way, you might end up "fixing" an issue that isn't actually an issue, it's just not working properly because there's something funky going on upstream. The power for the parking lights starts at the fuse, then goes into the switch. After the switch, it splits and goes between the front/rear, and also the wire that triggers the clock brightening/dimming.

A Jeep rally car seems like a strange concept to me, if only because that's not what Jeep does. There's nothing wrong with expanding a product line, though. In some ways, it would make a lot of sense for Jeep to come out with one. Fiat is parent company to Lancia, a brand with huge rallying history. Currently, however, the Lancia lineup consists of Delta, build on the previous generation of the platform under the Dodge Dart (and current Cherokee) Thema, a rebadged Chrysler 300 Voyager, a rebadged Grand Caravan Flavia, a rebadged Chrysler 200 Nothing in the Fiat group is really suited to any kind of racing (outside of Ferrari and the motorsports stuff they acquired from Chrysler) with the exception of the Alfa Romeo 4c, which would make a pretty poor rally car up against the current WRC lineup. What could possibly happen would be a Dodge Dart hatchback variant (there is a Fiat branded one being sold in China and possibly European markets now). Lancia could probably to that what Ford has done with the Focus. The issue I see with that is that any kickback for a US brand would likely be another Dart model. Something else that could possibly be done there is a completely new vehicle on that platform, somewhere between the Dart hatch and Cherokee. The Punto (as the Hansen concept used) is too small to make a serious WRC competitor. The issue though is that I don't really see Fiat badging it as a Jeep. If anything, it would stick as a Fiat, possibly a Lancia (but unlikely seeing as they're trying to be a luxury brand). If they built a USDM version, I can't really see it being anything other than a Dodge. As has been stated and as awesome as it would be, Jeep doesn't really do that sort of thing. Or at least the old Jeep doesn't. We don't really know what the new Jeep does yet. Maybe they might resurrect the Eagle brand, but that's also unlikely. I would like to see a few more manufacturers (and something American that isn't a Ford) in the WRC. But a decent American sports car (that isn't a muscle car!!) would be nice.

If it's got markings indicating it's for diesel only, then I wouldn't use it for gas. Improperly marked bottles usually ends up with the wrong fluid going into something, in my experience. Otherwise I wouldn't be too concerned. If it really bugs you, you can swish it out with a small amount of gas or some other kind of solvent. To properly clean it out, though, you'll need to find some diesel eating enzymes.

In fairness, it was a pretty old u-joint. What I remember from looking at the broken pieces, the one biggest crack was rusted partway in, and shiny and freshly sheared looking for the rest of it as though the crack had been there for a while. The needle bearings were also kinda rusty under one cap, so the thing wasn't sealing so great.

What makes you say that? Best compliment I've had all month, though. And yes, it has been a bit of an adventure. I knew what I was getting into when I picked up a vehicle with so many miles on it. I just didn't expect quite this much of an adventure... in some ways I don't like it because it's been pretty hard on my already pretty tight wallet, but in many ways I'm grateful. I've learned a lot and it's really shown me what I can get done when I set my mind to it, which has really helped me get through some rough spots. I honestly may not have made it through February had it not been for the victorious rush from successfully swapping out the flexplate. I really hope the adventure settles down a bit now (knock on wood) because I've just been elected suspension team lead (head of suspension design) for my Formula SAE team, which really will cut into my already limited time. Thanks! I don't think that's going to be much of an issue. All the track bar does (by intent) is locate the axle side-to-side. So long as the axle is kept centered by something else, steering shouldn't be any different without it. The drag link and tie rod would still do their jobs through the range of travel. I can see a bit of bump steer happening due to the arc the drag link swings in that the axle no longer would, but that effect could be seriously minimized with a bit of a pitman arm drop and a pair of tie rods going direct from pitman arm to steering knuckles. Either way, that's a long time in the future, and I'm not planning more than a couple inches of lift. But thanks for the heads up.

Looks to me like it rolled, and then was cut apart to extract the driver. The separation of the roof from the passenger side above the door looks pretty surgical.

It's far from perfect. The carpet has stains. The door panels are good though, and so are the mj-specific plastics. The headliner needs new fabric and the vinyl seats are torn, but I'd be keeping the buckets anyhow unless I can find another pair.

My interior has looked worse... so long as you're not driving with the dash on your lap and the steering wheel flopping around due to it just being shoved onto the end of a disassembled and unsupported column, I'd say you're still doing fine. You might also want to add upgrading the headlight harness to that list if you haven't already. Incidentally, I've got a complete grey interior in my MJ and am kinda wondering what a blue one would look like, given my dark blue exterior. If you're ever up here with your MJ, I might want to check it out. Don't make a special trip up here though, cause I'm not all that close to sold on the idea of swapping out my interior (I'm pretty anal retentive about changing the colour of things), and you might decide you don't want it after checking it out.

Do any lights come on if you turn the dash light dimmer switch (the headlight switch knob) all the way to bright (with a distinct position)? They should, whether or not they do. If nothing happens, my first thought would be the fuse, and then grounds. There are some wiring diagrams available here, if it helps. Courtesy of Blue88Comanche.

Well waddaya know, that is a chrome front bumper. And grill. :thumbsup: Whether the front bumper is original or not is anyone's guess, but it is a stock bumper. That's a good looking truck you've got there.

The stock lighting in my cab is more than adequate. I do, however, have both the lights in the b-pillars and the footwells working. The ones for the footwells may be an option, though. You may want to check the grounds for the interior lights if yours are giving you issues. If I were putting an LED strip under my dash, I'd just tap it into or use it to replace the footwell lights. Whether or not you have them, the wiring should be there. They mount to the lower dash panel. The yellow plastic bit is the back end of the socket, and they look an awful lot like the parking lamp sockets. There's a connector a few inches down the wires from where they disappear under the dash, which should be there somewhere whether or not the lights are. The driver's side has one too. I found it easier to twist the sockets out of the bracket than to pull the connectors out when I pulled that panel off. But that's irrelevant. Hooking them up in the place of these lights should be okay. I highly doubt you'd be exceeding the draw with LED's (but can't know without actual numbers) and they'd already be hooked up to come on whenever your interior lights normally would. There are aftermarket b-pillar lights available, or you might be able to strip the housings of your factory (I've assuming non-functioning) ones and put LED's in. Again, the wiring is there for either the interior lights, or constant power as these ones could be turned on independently. I don't have any pics of those lights, though. If I were planning on putting LED's behind the seats somewhere, I'd tap into those lights for convenience, i.e. not having to run wires all the way to the fuse box or the door switch.

How badly do you want it to fit? It probably won't bolt in directly.

There's often a factory build sheet tucked away behind door panels or under seats which would list all the options it came with. You may also get lucky and Chrysler has one on record they'd send you if you emailed them your VIN, although with an '86 that's unlikely. Not all of AMC's records made it to Chrysler, if they even made it onto AMC's record. Your front bumper looks to be a stock XJ/MJ bumper. Or at least the end cap is. It's really hard to tell from the side. The back is a Fey, a common universal aftermarket step bumper for small trucks. I think the X package had a chance of coming with chrome bumpers, but given the absence of chrome door handles or mirrors, I'd say that's not the case with yours. The canopy also looks a little bit off. It seems a little vertically challenged, the front of the canopy doesn't quite seem to match the profile of the rear of the cab, and it looks a little long for the bed. But that could just be me.