gogmorgo

There's a website someone on here posted not too long ago that sold the carpet precut and molded, I think. Yes, here it is. Stockinteriors.com if that's helpful to you at all. Don't worry, we all have our off days. ;) Also, if you click "edit" and then "use full editor" for your first post you can change the title of the topic.

So you're planning on putting down a moisture trap in your bed? Not sure I understand what your plan of action is... You could always take a large sheet of cardboard (or tape a million cereal boxes together) to make your own template. At any rate, no one can tell you exactly what your bed dimensions will be without knowing whether it's a long bed or a short bed.

I'd expect you'd break some stuff if you pulled the 15mm bolts at the sides first, while the thing was still bolted to the firewall. I did mine, after reading a few good writeups. Took me about an hour to pull it out by myself, and that was outside at -20°C/-4F back in Februrary. Didn't break anything, although I could tell things were pretty brittle at that temperature.

The Saab 9-4X was also basically the same thing. With slightly more different sheet metal, you're also looking at the Chevy Equinox, the Pontiac Torrent, and eventually the GMC Terrain as the platform moved to the next generation. Also the Suzuki XL7. I didn't think the Captiva ever hit US/North American market. In Europe, in an attempt to generate better sales in the cheap asian cars class, GM rebranded all the Daewoos as Chevrolets. It didn't work. Badge engineering. Take one product, change the name and logos, throw some leather and sparkly things at it, and it's suddenly another car. One of the issues that lead to GM's bankruptcy... too many brands selling the same thing. They were basically competing with themselves. They're working a little harder at differentiating the brands they've got, but it's still a thing. It's just a lot cheaper to design a car and put three different stickers on it than it is to design three different cars. My parents were recently looking at what they called a Buick Rainier. I hadn't heard of it before, so I looked it up. Its a Chevy Trailblazer/ GMC Envoy that says Buick on it. It was obvious right away when I saw the first picture.

I'm planning on ditching the hardline quick connectors too. I was looking into it after dropping my tranny a few months ago when I broke the stock connectors, and I found out the hard way this week that the new ones I got to replace them started leaking. This is the collection of ebay items I was hoping to use to replace them with -6 braided steel fuel line. This is intended as a "jumping off point", as I haven't made sure all this will work out yet. For the connections at the tranny: http://www.ebay.ca/itm/141225855907 A -6AN to 14x1.5 adapter. This will work, the package for the new quick connectors I got had 14x1.5 on them, and that's what every single source I've found has said they are. For the ends of the steel lines at the tranny: http://www.ebay.ca/itm/121224605911?var=420204814979 90° swivel fitting The braided steel line itself: http://www.ebay.ca/itm/290957005090 Just some bulk -6AN fuel line. I'm thinking in the neighbourhood of 3 feet for each line, but I haven't gone out and measured yet. For the line ends at the radiator (still using the "stock" cooler): http://www.ebay.ca/itm/121224605911?var=420204814979 45° swivel fitting. I don't actually know if I need a 45 or what. That's based on what I've read on a few other forums. It might be fine to do with 90° swivels. I haven't looked at it yet. For the connections at the radiator: http://www.ebay.ca/itm/121153028039 No guarantees this will actually work. I'm running the Spectra Premium rad (CU1193 I think, got it from Rock Auto) and I understand that they used 3/8"NPT for both the connections at the rad, but again, I haven't actually checked. If you're getting bulk steel braided line, make sure you use the proper tube cutters to get a nice clean cut, or else you risk having the ends leak. Also, if you're using some other kind of cooling solution (i.e. aftermarket standalone tranny cooler) you may have other options for connections at the cooler end of things. From what I've read, the tranny cooler lines aren't under any particularly huge pressure, so the 1500psi fuel line is grossly overkill, but I couldn't think of any other braided line that would have enough flow. I want the braided steel to prevent tears and punctures when I'm driving somewhere I really should be. Also, I haven't actually gone to check what exactly I've got for tranny fluid inlet and outlet at the rad, so I could be way off base on the 3/8"NPT. And also I haven't measure what length of line I'd need either, or figured out where I'd route it.

Well, I've got the "new" arb bolted on, so that's good. Fits like it belongs there, reused all the hardware off the ZJ too. Except I discovered another pretty major issue. A while back, I discovered that the old arb was bent, as though someone had used it as a recovery point. As a result, the end link on one side contacted the coil on extension. Putting the new arb on today, I noticed that the end link on that side was still much closer to the coil than the one on the other side. Upon inspection, the coil didn't seem to be sitting quite right on it's seat at the axle. After a half hour with various jacks in different locations, a pry bar, and ratchet strap, trying to get it back to where it needed to be, I discovered that a half coil was broken off the bottom end of the spring... :doh: it's likely been that way since I got the truck. The PO complained about the clunk that I later identified to be the arb end on the coil (his mechanic couldn't reproduce) and the arb really wasn't all that bent compared to the new one... And guess who discovered this immediately before moving between provinces with all my stuff... Oh well. I guess if it's been like this for the 25,000 km I've had the MJ, then it'll be fine for another 600. So since I need to replace the coils anyway, and don't want worn-out junkyard suspension components, looks like funds this summer are getting reprioritized to get me a lift much sooner than I was expecting. :banana: Not sure how far up I want to go, but I'm thinking I'll be getting the General Spring mil wraps as have shown up on here, assuming there are some available, and then lifting the front to match, possibly with a slight rake. Should only be two or three inches over stock height, i'm expecting. I don't want much of a lift... road going characteristics are somewhat more important to me than extreme rock crawling as this is still a daily driver.

Got some pics, but they're on my phone and my computer's packed away, and I haven't quite figured out how to upload them from my phone. Eventually they'll get posted. I did it again. Popped another steering u-joint, and it again took out both pieces of the axle shaft. Driver's side this time. This was almost a month ago, yeah, I'm behind on updates. At any rate, between a job interview and final exams within a couple days of each other and in different provinces, I wound up putting about 1000 miles on the broken bits of axle before I had the time (and tools) to do something about it. This lead to an interesting issue... I couldn't pull the old shaft out when I finally went to swap it. Pulling the diff cover revealed an obvious issue. The broken shaft bouncing around (and repeatedly smashing into the center spider gear pin or whatever it's called) led to it rolling itself a lip around the end of the splines, preventing them from sliding out of the gear. A hammer, chisel, several hours, and a dictionary of cuss words managed to push the lip back down, and I was able to pull the shaft out. I did both sides, swapping in the CV shafts from RockAuto. I also put in new hubs to avoid breaking breaker bars trying to get the axle nuts off. The improvement is huge. What else have I done... Ah yes, a new throttle position sensor. It honestly starts and runs better with no tps than it does with one it doesn't realize is bad. A couple days ago I picked up a "new" anti-roll bar and links off a V8 ZJ at a wrecker. Links came off an XJ. The 26mm bar I got should be 38% stiffer than the 24mm I had, at least before it broke... end links rusted out or something and popped off. Those of you arguing it's fine to run without one, all I have to say is crosswinds. Driving without the arb is pretty sketchy at best. I noticed that something was wrong when I discovered that turning the steering wheel back and forth about ten degrees could get the MJ rocking side to side like a canoe going sideways over a wake without any change in direction, and I could keep up the harmonic oscillation until I though the wheels might start lifting off. Checked underneath, and sure enough brokenness. An explanation for all the body roll I was suddenly noticing. But back on topic, I was hoping to find a 28mm arb, apparently they came on up-trim XJ's with towing packages. That would be an 85% increase in stiffness over my stock, and 35% over the 26mm I did get. Oh well... I'll keep an eye out. I'm hoping I can get the "new" one installed tomorrow morning before I finally leave Saskatoon and head "home" for the summer. Not sure it'll happen in the morning, though. I'm starting work on Monday morning, which is actually tomorrow morning at this hour, and I've got a few mj-unrelated projects in the shop here to finish up before I leave. Just taking a break now for some fresh welds to cool down. Something that needs done pretty urgently is new battery cables. They've always been a little jenky since I bought the truck, but I left my glovebox open for a few days this week which killed the battery and the resulting corrosion pretty well did them in. I've needed a boost the last few times I started the MJ, so if it gives me trouble again tomorrow, I'll just pick up some terminals for the time being.

Come to think of it, I may have done better with that $35 than I should have... the lady behind the counter said $35 for the sway bar, but didn't know what to charge for the end links, so she asked if $5 each sounded right. I kinda shrugged and said "Sure, I guess". And now I'm realizing that $35 + 2*$5 ≠ $35. Oh well. I'll take the "discount" for the time it took me to get the end links off. Looked like someone else tried to get them first and made a mess of it, nearly completely stripping out the torx socket. After dicking around with a t55 bit I just pulled out a hacksaw and cut the head off. Easy peasy lemon squeezy. As far as stiffness goes, it increases proportionally to the 4th power of the diameter, so that 2mm of extra diameter translates to something in the neighbourhood of 35% extra stiffness. I won't go too far out of my way for the 28mm, but I'll keep at it.

Went and picked up my "new" sway bar and end links today. There were two XJ's at the yard I went to, one with a 23mm bar (I brought calipers) and minty end links, so I grabbed the links. The other was nose down in a pond so I couldn't get to it, but what I could see of the sway bar was pretty beefy looking, though it may just have been an optical illusion as it was under water. It had a hitch on it, but didn't notice if it was Limited or not. There were also two ZJ's, and both of them had 26mm sway bars, but one was a V8 and the other was a 4.0. I took it off the V8 mostly cause the front end was up off the ground, but also because the front end was pretty minty (pulled the skid plate and sway bar off with a 3/8" ratchet) and the 4.0 was a rusty mess. It was a flat rate whichever sway bar I got, and I needed a new one anyhow (and somewhat urgently) so that's why I got it. All told I paid $35. I may keep looking for a 28mm bar, but this'll do for now.

The electrical components of the a/c system are the blower motor, the compressor clutch, and the auxiliary rad fan. Because of higher engine load, the rad fan would kick on/off to take care of extra heat. Combined that's a fair load on the alternator, but I think you'd be noticing the issue in other situations, such as turning on the headlights, if it really were an issue with the charging system. You can get your charging system tested at most parts stores, probably for free.

Also put one of the Spectra's from RockAuto in my '91 in Sept. A couple months later I froze a bunch of stuff due to a lapse in judgement/memory and bad anti-freeze. Blew most of the hoses off, but the rad's fine. Spectra's Canadian. :dunno:

You can use whatever online image hosting service you like, including facebook if you've got the right privacy settings. There's a thread pinned in the "testing" sub-forum.

Especially if it's in perfect shape...

:???: wasn't me who suggested it... I just pointed you at it when you asked and said what most did with it... :dunno: Good to know you've got things working, though!

For waterproofing, you need to start with really good door seals. I hear the '97+ XJ seals are better than the '96-. but you'll have to do your own research on that. Coating them with some kind of grease helps, but is messy. Next thing to do is fix every single rust hole and seal the floorpan drains semi-permanently, as well as every single hole in the firewall and floor (including the shifter holes, parking brake, etc). Spraying in a rubberized bed liner or similar will help to seal up any gaps between spot welds. Your Jeep will now float and paddle helplessly at the water instead of sinking to the bottom and gaining traction. Keep in mind that nothing in the engine bay will much like that much water. The starter and alternator in particular are pretty sensitive (and mounted pretty low from the factory). Sealing the distributor cap (ring of rtv/silicone around the base) and dielectric grease in every single connector, including the spark plug and coil wire boots. It's best to have some way to shut off your rad fan so you don't splash water around or break it by stirring the water too quickly... not a bad idea to swap in electric fans with a disconnect relay/switch. Install a snorkel and make sure your entire air intake is sealed. Hydrolocking is highly over-rated, and the water in that pic is barely a couple inches below the stock intake. As far as sway bars go, I'll be watching this thread. I just managed to snap the ends off both my sway bar end links, and was planning on picking up a V8 ZJ front bar and links as my current sway bar was bent and worn out. It's a couple days before I can make it out to a wrecker though, but given that I'm moving all my stuff between provinces with my MJ within the next week, a functioning anti-roll bar is a must.

There's another thread a few topics down about this. It has a pretty obvious title.

89 is still Renix. OBD1 was first used on '91 model year XJ's and MJ's. What Oddmodman's describing for an OBD1 Jeep seems to be a "reset the ecu" thing, which happens just by disconnecting the battery. The ECU has no permanent storage, so it loses everything when it loses power and pretty well has to retune itself, and will run a little rough while it does that. Don't know if Renix works the same way or not.

If you can turn your key back and forth in the ignition, count as high as nine, and remember that number at least long enough to write it down, you should be able to check your codes by yourself in under a minute, depending on how many codes you have. The only required tool is your ignition key. No scan tools necessary. Here's the link again if you need it. http://comancheclub.com/topic/28111-reading-obdi-91-and-92-mj-fault-codes/

Another advantage I just discovered (and took advantage of yesterday) to buying tires online at Canadian Tire is that they patch tires you bought from them for free. Probably that's typical for many chains, but you never know.

It's a French motor... How about Le Dizzle? Only partially stollen fro- sorry, inspired by- JeepCoMj's suggestion.

If your check engine light came on, what code(s) did you get? http://comancheclub.com/topic/28111-reading-obdi-91-and-92-mj-fault-codes/

Well, the new tps seems to have done the trick, but the BWD one the part store had looks like a piece of poo compared to what I'm assuming is the original that I pulled off. I grabbed the gasket to put it on the new tps, but there was no provision for retaining it, and I didn't want to damage it so I left it off. Also, the "snout" on the new one seemed to be the same length as old one with the gasket. I'm hoping the gasket isn't crucial in a temporary sense. After a few paychecks this summer I'm going to get a Mopar tps because I don't trust the longevity of this one, so I'm hanging onto the old one and the gasket for the time being. Keeping the gasket on the old one seems like a decent way of not losing it.

Well, I caught a buddy with a '95 XJ, and measured his connector for comparison, and it was exactly the same. As much as I don't like replacing parts willy nilly without knowing they're bad, I'm about to go get a new tps. My buddy was in a rush to get somewhere so we didn't try swapping his into my MJ. Also, I put the multimeter back on my tps and got inconsistent results ...so, yeah. Fresh parts.

The MJ was idling unevenly and the transmission was shifting like I had my foot planted to the floor yesterday. If I don't keep my foot on the gas when pulling up to a stop, it'll stall. This morning it threw a check engine light, code 24 for the TPS. I looked around online, found some testing procedures and tried em out. Probing the unplugged connector with the key on, engine off, I got <10Ω to ground, (pin closest to the passenger side) . I got ~4.8V between ground and the pin on both of the other two pins. All grounds were done to the neg battery terminal. I also bench tested the TPS... It seems alright in that I get ~1500Ω to ~300Ω with a reasonably linear transition as I turn it up. I only tested with a digital multimeter, though. I'm thinking my issue lies in the fact that I'm getting voltage from the middle pin of the connector. From what I've found online, I should be getting 5V from the feed line (driver's side pin), but I haven't found anything clear about what I should be getting from the signal line back to the ECU (middle pin). My mind tells me I shouldn't be seeing voltage at both points, though.

I'm not an expert in emissions testing in any way, but I'm curious as to why you're running 91 octane. If your engine isn't tuned for it, it's not going to improve anything. If anything, it might make things worse because it doesn't ignite as easily as lower octane. I've heard a few people recommend bombing down a freeway for 10-15 minutes, some say in a lower gear than normal, to get the cat good and hot. Might help reduce NOx.