gogmorgo

Haha, gotta love Corb Lund.

Durability is what you seek? Go with a Sonim. The Bolt SL 1520 I'm using right now is basically indestructible. 50 foot drops onto concrete have barely scuffed it. Fully waterproof, 4G, and push-to-talk on top of that. It laughs at Otterboxes. It eats Nokia's for breakfast, and stirs the acid from their batteries into its coffee with the shards of their bones. Guinness certified as the world's toughest phone: It'll play music all day at work for a few days without killing the battery. Not the greatest quality sound, though, cause it's a tiny waterproof speaker, but Sonim claims it'll put out 110dB, and my ringing ears believe them. Sound quality vastly improves with headphones, though. Also, the camera is a cheap afterthought and seriously sucks. And it's only a T9 keypad, and it only runs java apps. But at least it does that, right? It's not quite as capable from a technological standpoint as an iPhone, but it's a hell of a lot more durable.

Coming home from school for Christmas 2012, I got home on one tank of gas. It's something like 300 miles. I forget what exactly led to it, but the next day, forgetting that I didn't have gas, I took off on a 60 mile trip on a Sunday, when all the gas stations are closed because I live in the middle of nowhere. Needless to say, 15 miles or so in, the low fuel light came on. I was hoping that since my destination was a larger town there might be a gas station open, so I slowed down a bit and kept going. Nope, no open gas stations. I had to get back that night, so I started driving the 60 miles back, thinking if I did run out I could just call someone for a rescue, and that the further I drove, the less far they'd need to drive to get me. Somehow I made it all the way back, as well. The next day, I put 94.73 litres into the tank. That's 25.02 US gallons. I guess the old tank may have bulged a bit or something? At 16.8 mpg, that was also one of my better tanks for mpg. Also, I paid CAD$4.236/gal for that fillup, so $106. The data is in my fuelly.com log, should be a link in my siggy. Fillup number 9. I remember the guy behind the till at the gas station doing the whole "damn, that little old truck took a lot of gas" thing. "How far does that get you?" The look on his face when I said about 675km (420 miles) was pretty good.

This tread. It's a thing. :thumbsup:

http://rock102rocks.com/ Saskatoon's Rock 102, the station I'm typically listening to when I'm there during the school year. Not a bad mix of older stuff (bear in mind I'm only 23) with the required-to-be-relevant newer stuff chucked in. Also Canadian content that would be obscure to you guys (Sheep Dogs, anyone?) thanks to the gov regs, most of which is pretty decent, too. Since I've been listening online right now, they changed tracks from the White Stripes: Seven Nation Army, to Skynyrd: Sweet Home Alabama to Pretty Reckless: Heaven Knows, something U2 I don't remember the name of, The Trews: Paranoid Freak...

Thanks for bringing this thread back from the dead... would never have though this possible and I'll be looking into it. To hopefully answer your question, each speaker will have two wires going to it, a signal feed and a ground of sorts. One left speaker (two wires) + one right speaker (two more wires) = four wires. If you dissect a pair of stereo headphones, you'll find two wires going to each earpiece as you expect. At the plug end, you'll find all four wires, although the two ground wires are often merged before the plug. When connecting the wires to the terminals on the radio, you'd take the feed wires for each earpiece and connect one to each pin, then ground the other two. Pretty well the same thing as wiring two speakers in stereo. The pin terminals on the radio would be the "speakers".

Since you're in there anyway, it's not a bad idea to upgrade to a relay harness to reduce load on the headlight switch. Prevent it from doing that thing where it gets really hot and then emits incandescent gasses...er... fire. Fire bad. The upgrade harness is available from a few places (Putco makes one that can be found on amazon but feel free to shop around) or you could build your own like I did, based off this writeup. Both the Putco harness and the diy one plug into one of the original sockets to trigger the relays, but you could always just splice it in directly if were having issues with the socket.

Wasn't '96 a half-implementation year? Buddy of mine has a '96 XJ that has an OBD2 scan port, but it's still an OBD1 system... the scan port does nothing. He reads his codes by rocking the key.

If you take an ice cube and let it melt, the mass remains the same between the ice and water. The difference is in density. Ice is less dense than water, because it expands when it freezes. In terms of buoyancy, ice floats because it is less dense, but because it's less dense, not all of it is below the surface of the water. Only about a third of an iceberg is visible, and so on. A floating object displaces it's own mass in water. Ice displaces less water than it's total volume because it is less dense, but once the ice returns to water (at a similar temperature) the ice water displaces the same amount of water as when it was ice. TL;DR: If you have ice floating on top of water and the ice melts, it doesn't change the level of the water since the ice "shrinks" as it returns to water, and all the melt water will fit into the same space as the ice that was below the water line. The issue with rising sea levels is that the polar ice caps are largely not floating. The Antarctic and Greenland ice sheets are almost entirely on land, and are miles thick in places. It's a lot of water. Some estimates have it to be 70% of the world's total fresh water, roughly 2% of the total water on the surface of the Earth. The sea level will definitely rise if it all melts and runs downhill into the oceans. Saying global warming is triggering this melt is a bit of a stretch though. The warmer atmosphere holds more water vapour, which leads to more precipitation and actual thickening of the Antarctic ice sheet. Also, a lot more land would become uninhabitable due to rising temperatures and expanding deserts than due to rising seas... the issue is just that we tend to settle predominantly along trade routes, and particularly in port cities, so the most dense human populations tend to be along coast lines. National Geographic has a cool resource on their website about rising sea levels. http://ngm.nationalgeographic.com/2013/09/rising-seas/if-ice-melted-map

As was said, higher octane ratio fuels resist compression ignition (pinging, detonation) better than lower octane fuels. This is unnecessary in most engines as they are tuned to run on regular, our Jeeps being among those. In a stock engine, it's a waste of money. Some higher-perfomance cars are tuned for higher octane fuels, and the manufacturer will indicate this. Mostly it's in higher compression engines or those with forced induction (super/turbo chargers). The compression ratio is the ratio between the volume in the cylinders at bottom dead center vs at top dead center. A higher compression ration indicates that you're squeezing the air/fuel mixture into a tighter space, so you have a relatively larger "bang" and the expanding gasses from the ignition expand further, thus you make more power out of the same fuel, which can lead to better fuel economy, but typically doesn't due to the heavy foot effect. A stroker engine, like the common 4.0 w/ 4.2 crank is an example of an increased compression ratio. Vs stock, the stroker has higher displacement, but the same volume in the head (compression chamber), which is why, as Hornbrod points out and as anyone with a stroker will attest, they require higher octane fuel. Higher compression requires more compression-ignition resistance because temperature goes up with increased compression. Higher octane fuels don't burn hotter than lower octane fuels, they auto-ignite at hotter temperatures. This may actually take away a small amount of performance/economy in an engine not tuned for higher octane fuels due to incomplete burning, although it wouldn't be all that noticeable to a butt-dyno. Incomplete burning would also lead to carbon buildup in the engine which will reduce performance and would produce "dirtier" exhaust. Most "name brand" fuels will also have much higher levels of detergents and other useful additives in their higher octane fuels as well, leading to improved fuel economy in the form of a better running/cleaner engine, but for the most part those improvements are minimal and probably not noticeable in a properly maintained engine. As a bit of anecdotal evidence that running premium is a waste of money, my dad had an '85 Chevy van with the 305 V8. He had issues with run-on (dieseling... the engine would still compression ignite after it was shut off) for as much as a minute afterwards. He "solved" the run-on issues by switching to premium fuels. I wound up borrowing the van for a summer a few years back, and sick of poor running and paying for premium in a vehicle that made no power, I replaced the spark plugs. The original ones were coated in carbon. He has the opposite of a heavy foot, basically drives like a grandpa, so no surprise there. The new plugs sorted out all run-on issues even on 87 octane, and I noticed about a 20% gain in fuel economy over my dad, despite the fact that I was pretty well running a 20 mile rallye stage every morning on the way to work. After he got the van back, he was still insisting on running premium, but was back down to only a 5% improvement vs before the new spark plugs. As more anecdotal evidence about octane ratings vs compression ignition, with the same van. I was nine years old at the time, so I've only heard this second hand, but apparently somehow the distributor cap and rotor melted, resulting in the van running like crap. There was a noticeable improvement in running once switched to regular from premium because regular fuel was mostly compression igniting on the cylinders getting crappy spark, whereas they weren't really igniting on premium fuel because they weren't compression igniting. Don't really know how one would go about melting a distributor cap without serious heat damage to the engine, but again, I was only nine years old when it happened. A piece of trivia on octane ratings: there are a couple different systems of measuring it. In Europe and other parts of the world, they don't use the same one as we do in North America, so the fuel carries higher octane numbers despite similar anti-knock characteristics for their regular/mid/premium grades as the fuel grades we use. Another piece of trivia on compression ratios, the Atkinson cycle engine is similar to the typical (Otto cycle) engine, but through some mechanical means has a longer ignition stroke than compression stroke. This makes for a comparable improvement in efficiency as in a higher-compression engine, but without as much boost in power because you aren't sucking in more air (and fuel to maintain proper mixtures). In the original system, this was done with a complex crank that competed all four strokes in one revolution, but modern "Atkinson" engines such as the one in the Prius accomplish the same simply by leaving the intake valves open during the first part of the compression stroke, so some of the air is pushed back out into the intake and a similar effect is achieved: hot combustion gasses can expand further than their original, uncompressed volume, so less energy is wasted out the exhaust. Not so great for increasing power output though because you aren't dumping in more fuel. Due to oversight on my part, I once wound up running my MJ on race fuel from the shop, which is somewhere between 94-104 octane, depending on what's available. I didn't notice a difference either. Also worth saying, some of the octane boosters do so by adding in methanol or other alcohols, and can be as corrosive to an engine as ethanol. Alcohols are a cheap way of increasing octane levels, but definitely not always the healthiest.

Relevant Naxja thread: http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1053970

I run 5w30 in my 4.0 due to climate, but I run the same stuff year round. Don't worry about it.

This is completely off topic and really unnecessary, but I'll take your bait. I'm perfectly aware of how the CAD functions, a vacuum switch on the t-case triggers a vacuum solenoid at the front axle which in turn slides a collar around to engage or disengage the front passenger side axle shaft. I didn't, however, mention it once. Without the CAD, you don't get stuck in 4x4, even if it's permanently locked. What I don't know about (as I said above) is what happens inside the t-case beyond a fairly general knowledge of form and function. I don't know what exact mechanism is used to engage the front driveshaft and turn it, I just know it isn't vacuum operated because it works without vacuum applied. I thought I'd said as much. Not sure what it has to do with the front end, though, or did you think I meant "axle" instead of "driveshaft"? Oh, and if it makes you happy, yeah, I've got what would be a perfectly functioning CAD axle, but I've blocked off the lines to it and it's got a single piece shaft instead of the two-part. I haven't bothered putting the new seal in because I'm planning on swapping out for a non-cad axle at some point, so I'm monitoring gear oil levels. Happy?

I'm fairly certain that the shifting (including engaging the front driveshaft) is purely mechanical, that is to say not dependent on vacuum at all. I can shift mine into and out of 4x4 over and over again without the engine running. Can you shift the t-case into low range or neutral? I'm not too knowledgeable about the internal workings of the transfer case, though, so can't really help you. Have you checked the tag on the t-case to make sure you've still got an NP 231 back there?

Did you even read the post? He's stuck in 4x4.

I once had four people across my buckets. I wouldn't have called it comfortable, but it did work for a short distance. I've had three more often... the tranny tunnel isn't a bad seat, although the total domination of the shifter by the person in the middle can be frustrating.

My fuel gauge does more or less the same thing. It does seem to be relative consistent in how it reads, just +/- quarter tank. The low fuel light regularly seems to come on when the gauge reads empty, which volume and math tell me is pretty consistently around a 1/3 tank, though, so I've just been living with it. That and using my odometer to interpret the fuel gauge. The sending unit is located inside the gas tank, along with the fuel pump assembly. Fixing your issue, if it's a sending unit issue, won't be cheap. Sending units are MJ-specific and are no longer in production. You may occasionally stumble upon one on ebay or at a junk yard, or yours can be sent away to be rebuilt. Spectra will rebuild them for several hundred dollars. I think there's also a member on here who rebuilds them. You may simply have a connection issue, though. Any of the connections in the fuel pump/sending unit wiring could be corroded, and the gauges themselves might also be poorly grounded or otherwise have issues.

I also started relatively new to this game a couple years back when I bought my MJ. And in February of this year, I had my transmission out. My advice for working on your Jeep is to find a good writeup of what it is you want to do, figure out what tools you'll need to do it. Then go slow. Google is your friend. The Comanche (and more importantly the Cherokee... I've found better write-ups looking for XJ stuff, simply because there are twenty times as many of them out there, although most of the parts are identical) has been around for quite some time, and you're not going to run into an issue no one else has ever had. There are also a bunch of members on here with more experience and knowledge than most people would find comfortable to have themselves, so don't be afraid of asking if you're not sure about something. Something else you'll find incredibly useful is a good salvage yard. There are lots of them out there, but usually you can tell right away which ones are the good ones. My experience is that the smaller mom&pop yards will treat you better, better prices and so on, but they'll have less selection than the larger franchised yards. Either way, though, with a bit of work you should be able to find the parts you need at fractions of the price of buying new. Lots of parts are also only available from wreckers any more. And yes, mine's not a lemon, either. It can be a little discouraging at times with some of the stuff that's gone wrong, especially since mine is only just shy of that 500,000 km mark, but I get a bit of a rush every time I fix something. And my MJ always seems to have creative ways of breaking itself. An example conversation I've actually had: Me: My new flexplate is in! Friend who has worked professionally as a mechanic: Why did you need a new one? Me: The old one broke. Two seperate pieces. It's still driving, though. Friend: WTF how did you do that? Me: Dunno. Think it had something to do with when my engine tried to fall out, cause the motor mounts were shot and it wasn't bolted to the tranny. Must have been flexing too much. Friend: Why weren't they bolted together? Me: Dunno. Two of the bolts sheared and one of the others was missing. I guess there was one bolt in there, but only by a couple threads. Friend: WTF were you doing? @#$%ing tug-a-war with a @#$%ing freight train? Me: Dunno. It was like that when I bought it. I guess me being hard on it was a little much. Friend: Why did you buy that POS anyway? Me: Because Awesome. Friend: I could find you something more reliable... Me: Hey! It's never left me absolutely stranded... anything that's happened, it's always been able to drive itself into a shop. Eventually. It pulled you out once, too, with the two-piece flexplate and all. Friend: Whatever. (walks away) Me: And it's only tried to kill me three times and it hasn't managed it yet! Yeah, mine set itself on fire after I overloaded the headlight switch, electrocuted me (shouldn't have stuck my hand there), and left me improperly dressed out in -35 windchill when it blew a rad hose off three times in as many miles due to negligence and/or poor memory on my part. But it's my baby and I love it. I'm going to roll that odometer back to 000,000.0 and no can stop me. At the rate I'm going, I may almost have replaced every single part, but God knows I'll have loved every minute of it, and looked back and laughed at myself for every time I haven't loved it. Seriously, who else has had their engine fall out? It was expensively frustrating at the time, but hilarious in hindsight. And the friend from the above conversation regularly drives a pumpkin orange Pinto that he paid $500 for, running and plateable. I've definitely got the better ride... and so do you. . :MJ 1: . Good luck with the build! And, to adress some of your issues... The window mechanism will be identical to a four-door cherokee's setup. You shouldn't have issues finding the parts you need at a junk yard. Your headliner is likely still salvageable. You should be able to find headliner adhesive in an aerosol can to glue it back on if you pull the panel off. If not, there's a vendor on here, SMS headliners, that will make you a new one. I'd use an angle grinder on the welded on bumper... which shouldn't really have been done anyway. The frame is just several layers of sheet metal, unlike a conventional frame which is solid steel... so the things that get welded on may only be attached to the outer layer. But if you no has an angle grinder, then a hacksaw will be better than nothing. If you don't have something to replace it with, though, I'd leave it on for now...

Jessica's a short wheel base. Addco makes a kit, but since it uses the shock mounts, and the swb shocks don't mount the same as the lwb, it doesn't work for the long wheel base MJ's.

I didn't when I installed my Dorman hb. But I don't think the one I pulled off was original... I seem to remember that it had a 2001 date on it. When mine went bad, the serp belt didn't squeak on the pulley... the pulley walked back far enough though that the belt was cutting its way into the timing cover, which was squeaking a bit. Could be what a spacer might be for, but it hasn't been an issue yet, three months later.

The Dorman (594-018) I put on back in February has this notch in the lip closest to the block: I'm assuming it's a timing mark, although I didn't check to see if it lined up with the one I pulled off at all, and I don't has dat one no more. You might be able to see it when it's oriented to line up with the timing marks, but I don't know. As far as my fingers can tell, it doesn't extend any further onto the pulley, it's just that little notch on the back, but I didn't bother popping the hood to look from above. My apologies for the potato picture. My phone's all I've got as a camera right now.

The Neon was always sold as both a Dodge and a Plymouth since it was first introduced. Incidentally, looking into it further, the Captiva and Vue are rebadgings of the Opel Antara, which is largely based on a Daewoo. The two were coming off the assembly line the whole time it was operating, but the Captivas were for Central and South American markets where Saturn didn't exist. Production of the Captiva for those markets continued, and then the Captiva kinda sorta was introduced to the US market as a replacement for the HHR, but only for fleet buyers. Apparently it was going to be released as a Buick with a similar drivetrain to the Volt, around 2011, but they canned that plan when the Volt didn't sell as well as they were hoping.

What makes you think they're related? The three are connected by the ignition switch, meaning you'd also have lost things like gauges, radio, clock, wipers, heater fan, etc. The cruise control and hazards do kinda meet again at the brake pedal switch, but that might be pushing things too far... Horns are pretty common issues... most people don't use them enough to notice immediately that something is wrong, and even then, most don't really care that it doesn't work. You may have either one or two horns on your MJ equipped from the factory. If you look straight up from underneath, kinda below/behind your headlight you should be able to see the horn(s. If you've got two it'll be one on each side, but if it's only one, it could be on either side). There's a rubbery deal (think it's part of the inner fender lining? not sure) that you might have to pull out of the way. The horns look like snail shells. Pull the connector off, make sure it isn't corroded, and stick a test light in it. If there's power to it when the horn button is pressed, likely the horn is bad. If not, you've got more work. There could also be an issue with the grounding point of the horn (the mounting bolt). Horns can be completely destroyed if a small amount of moisture gets in. Dust, dirt, mud, spiders, etc. Fortunately, they all work the same so it can be replaced with any random horn off any random car at any random junkyard, although some will require you running a separate ground wire. If you've got no power to the horn and you can't hear a relay click from under the dash when you push the horn button, chances are pretty good the relay's bad. Good, but not guaranteed. There could also be an issue with the wiring to the relay as well. You can check that with a test light and/or voltmeter in the relay socket. You should have constant power to one of the three terminals, and continuity to ground on one of the other two sockets when you push the horn button. The other one is the 12V feed to the horn, and is only powered when the button is pressed with a relay in place. Hazard lights. Most likely cause is the flasher unit failing. To test it, swap it with the turn signal flasher, and see if the hazards (and the turn signals) work. The flasher units are in the fuse panel. They're the cylindres in the top left (turn signals) and bottom right (hazards) corners. I don't know much about cruise control. I'd suspect a vacuum leak, but I really don't know. A few members have had trouble with the brake pedal switch that disengages it, but I don't know enough to really comment on this.

Call me weird, but I kinda like the interior. It's a bit steampunk, don't you think?

Saw that not too long ago. Cats are awesome. :thumbsup: