gogmorgo

Hope it works out. In the pits at FSAE Lincoln last year we though we had some issues with our TPS, and we couldn't find our spare. We went to the pit next door, and their spare bolted up and plugged right in. Slight recalibration (we always recalibrate for new sensors) but it worked great, even though ours was off a '90's GM truck and theirs was for a 2000's Suzuki. Like I said, TPS's are pretty similar in form and function.

Pop a drum off and measure it. You're looking for the diameter of the braking surface. A ruler will do it, doesn't need to be super accurate. Or you could buy both sizes, go home, install the one that fits, and return the other so you don't have to pull a wheel off twice.

The last gen Colorado/Canyon did have an SUV variant, but only in the forum of the Hummer H3. I doubt they could call it a proper Wrangler competitor without a short wheelbase version, though. I frankly wouldn't mind a SWB two-door H3... The picture is of an old Hummer concept from before Hummer was deaded.

Brake bleeding won't hurt anything, but as long as your pedal feels good and you've got good braking performance, it's probably not needed. The valve shouldn't be capable of introducing air into the system without other problems going up. Sure would make life easier for the rest of us if people didn't mess with things when they didn't know what they were doing. Could also be they thought they were adjusting it properly, though... My Lada's got a similar setup to this valve on it, only much more complex... looks like it might balance left/right(!) a bit as well. But I just failed the Sask inspection in part due to the master cylinders being "seized". I can still lock up the rear brakes in a panic stop, though, so now I'm looking at that mess going "uh-oh".

There are two "bolts" you could be referring to. Which one is it? There's a bolt that holds the caliper to the caliper bracket. This is the guide pin. It's available on RockAuto, and called the Caliper Guide Pin, under Brake/Wheel Hub. There's also the bolt that holds the caliper bracket to the steering knuckle. This is the one Eagle's talking about. I can't find it on Rock Auto either. I understand there was a steering knuckle change somewhere in there, but my '91 4x4 doesn't need the caliper brackets removed to swap the hubs, so I'm ASSuming this isn't the bolt you're looking for. But you never know. What did you try to replace it with? A quick google search of Eagle's part number suggests that the bolt size is M12x1.25x35mm, grade 10.9 (the Metric equivalent to grade 8). You need to match the treads, you can't just expect any old bolt to work.

Buddy of mine says his dad has 1,400,000km and counting in a ZJ with the 4.0, and beyond regular maintenance only replaced the injectors. That's about 870,000 miles. I haven't seen the ZJ but have no reason to doubt he's telling the truth. And if his Dad's anything like this guy, he'd never spend that much time in a car he didn't like. His Dad was a crop insurance adjuster and most of the miles were on gravel... not an easy life for a car.

You never know. AMC had their hands pretty deep into GM's parts bins towards the end. Throttle position sensors are also all very similar in both form and function.

The big advantage to a leaf spring setup is simplicity. Your axle is only attached to the chassis by two leaf springs. A coil spring setup like the XJ/MJ one has five links doing the same job. You're looking at much less design work, much lower cost, much easier repair, etc. The big disadvantage to a leaf spring setup is handling precision. Lateral and longitudinal axle location as well as caster are controlled by springs, which means there's some give in every direction. Five reasonably rigid links will keep the axle much more constrained than two intentionally flexible ones will, leading to much better on-road performance. Obviously that isn't that big a concern for a rig that spends most of its time at relatively low speeds on unpaved unroads. Even in a daily driven pavement pounder, there are few scenarios where racecar-sharp handling is absolutely necessary, but it is incredibly nice to have the comfort of knowing that your vehicle will perform in the event of an emergency. As has been said, going from coils to leafs is a cheap, easy, and reasonably effective way to swap in a beefier axle; especially if the desired axle is already set up for leafs. This is assuming of course it's been done properly. Making sure the vehicle will safely take the load at the new spring attaching points is particularly important with a unibody chassis.

Photobucket has done that once or twice as well. So far I've not had an issue with Imgur, but they'll make you pay if you upload two hundred pics or so, just be aware. You can upload for free without an account, but it's harder to keep track of the pics.

Isn't there a recall on those for explosive fuel tanks... where they fix it by installing a trailer hitch?

Why do you need to "figure out" which brake parts you need? Like with all other parts, walk into a parts store, give them year, make, and model, answer their stupid questions, and install the parts they give you...

It's certainly an original design... they came up with it. It originates with them. It's their original design. Like someone singling a song they wrote is singing an "original". OEM it is not.

I doubt anyone interested in this mod wants to see all the bickering, but I'll throw my hat back into the ring at risk of it not stopping. This is a modification that can be done. It's effectiveness is obviously controversial, as it usually is when cold air intakes come up. There are those of us who aren't convinced this would really improve easy access to fresh cool air. I personally would need some data. I like data. I'd be more happy knowing I'm wrong than knowing I'm guessing. Failing actual dyno numbers, you could fairly easily pull temperature data for the two spots. If the air under the hood is cooler than the air behind the headlight, that would be advantageous. I'd be surprised if it was, but you never know. The change in temperature would likely have affect things the most. Does it allow more of this air of a different temperature into the engine? I'd also be surprised there. Changing the diameter of the mouth of a funnel doesn't do much to how quickly you can suck through it... but you never know. This one is harder to prove without a dyno, although you could hook up a mass air flow sensor, or else do some CFD. If the factory air inlet is a constriction, opening up the side of the airbox could relieve the constriction. Pulling the air through an opening with sharp edges and then around the corner could also slow it down. Increasing the pressure differential between the sides of the filter (by opening up the airbox and eliminating the vacuum produced by rapidly moving air shooting down the factory inlet) could lead to air moving faster through the filter, but slowing down the air on the upstream end of the filter could simply slow it down. There are lots of variables. There's also a solid brick wall here. I smashed my head against it a while back, and without actual evidence, that's all either of you are doing. I'm not a moderator and don't really have much business asking this as I'm often guilty of the same thing, but you two have both made your positions clear. My request is to stop this silly argument until either party can provide actual evidence supporting your claims. Keep in mind that fluid mechanics are one field where common sense doesn't always prove useful, and even the experts are hesitant to say anything without first doing some basic experimentation or simulation. I'm far from an expert, but please feed me some data! :popcorn:

Well, depends on the jump... I've had my MJ completely airborne (accidentally) and didn't even have alignment problems. I still wouldn't recommend it, though.

If they're the same motor/tranny combo, then the entire engine bay should be identical.

Looks like someone had too much RedBull and then an Icharus moment.

You can get a rear-view mirror with the temp and compass built in. GM late 90's or 2000's non-OnStar vehicles would be one source. Or an old-school floating ball compass would get you direction and inclination.

If anyone else in Canada is looking, Wesman Salvage in Brandon, MB, has a half-dozen MJs, most with good rear glass, as of late September 2014.

Lots of USDM cars and components were designed and/or assembled outside of the US. Don't assume they use the US "standard" parts. Take for example the metric square tool for the engine block coolant drain plug.

Edit: Stupid phone...

6mm is an incomplete thread size and would mostly be useless. All it gives you is the nominal diameter of the shaft. It doesn't specify thread pitch, which could be the common coarse (1.0) or fine (0.75), or any non-standard pitch.

It'll be very similar. The hardest part is getting the axle nut off.

U-joints? How does the tranny mount look?

It won't work if the pictures aren't completely public on Facebook. Pull up the pic on facebook and get the url by right clicking on it. Choose "copy image address" or similar. Facebook has that "get link" option, but I've had poor results using that one.

Huh. You learn something new every day. Digging into it a bit more I've found out that computer controlled carbs actually had an O2 sensor, and actually used it alongside a TPS to, you know, adjust things in the carburetor. Looks like it's mostly a Cali emissions thing, although some 49-state vehicles did escape from their factories with it. That's actually pretty cool, (no really, it's an automated carburetor!) although needlessly complex and probably much less effective (and reliable) when compared to fuel injection.