gogmorgo

Just my 2 cents. My MJ really enjoys catching the wind. Get a gusting crosswind and it's all over the place. Otherwise it's great. It even got a compliment the other day for how smooth and composed it was doing 70mph down a gravel highway, despite the blown shocks in the back.

You may be better off modifying the stand. Also, if it doesn't go wide enough, it may be too small for your engine. A 4.0 (or any straight six) is very long and puts a huge moment onto its mounting points when only supported at one end. And as to the notion of grade 8 bolts being brittle and breaking? Pure poppycock. One of those old-man myths that even some of the most respected people in automotive circles keep regurgitating.

I've got one full size spare in the bed of the MJ, just secured with a ratchet strap. And then another three in the basement. Heh. The Niva has a full-diameter spare, but it's the base wheel which is skinnier than my factory alloys and their tires. I think my XJ has a donut in the back, but I haven't pulled the cover off to check. I suppose I could always use one of the MJ's spares, but it'll be a while before she hits the road, so... ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

I'm not sure I would describe it as "surging" but my aw4 (both of them) always seem to hang a bit more between gears in comfort mode than I'm comfortable with. If you're decelerating in gear, I can see that brief moment between gears feeling like a surge I guess.

That sounds incredibly reasonable... I have no-deductible glass coverage though, so I've been waiting for something (anything) to happen to the windshield, but the longer I wait the more concerned I get that if I do make a claim they'll just write the truck off.

So apparently I'm wrong. I was confusing side marker lamps with clearance lamps. Apologies to all. As far as what would happen in Canada if they sold an illegal product and didn't indicate as such, there would definitely still be repercussions for the manufacturer. Although more than likely they would just refund the purchase price and call it done.

If you had some serious tires and massive flares I can see it going over the width. I remember reading about when GM went quadrasteer, the rear track got wider, and the wider flares to compensate brought the trucks over the width requirement, so they needed side markers, but the non-quadrasteer models don't have them. So I suspect the width requirement is right around a 2000-ish Chevy half-ton's. My MJ isn't that wide.

Obd= on board diagnostics, regardless of what brand name you put in it. The Renix 4.0's have it, meaning you can plug a scanner into it and read all the engine data. Whether the 2.5 does or not I don't know, but unless there's a carb sitting on top of your intake, there's going to be some form or other of obd. Calling it obd is going to cause confusion. In an industry-wide setting, OBD2 is what was standardized in the mid 90's, and OBD1 is all the unstandardized stuff before that, by whichever name the manufacturer called it. In the case of Jeeps, we like to refer to the HO (91-95) as OBD1, and refer to the previous generation (87-90) as Renix, but that doesn't mean Renix doesn't have on-board diagnostics, no matter how basic.

Side markers, reflectors, backup lights, they're totally illegal setups as shown here. The MJ isn't wide enough to require side markers in most jurisdictions. They are missing reflectors I suppose, but that style light can be got with integrated reverse lights. A strip of reflective tape along the bumper would turn this into a perfectly legal setup where we live.

The 4.0 currently in my MJ cost $300, but it came with an entire running and drivable XJ attached.

Unless it's a severe enough dent it significantly reduces oil capacity or prevents oil from draining or reaching the pickup. But if it runs for more than ten minutes after the dent happens, you're probably good.

Jeep? While anecdotal evidence doesn't mean much, I work for a federal government agency. We have lots of trucks kicking around. When buying trucks, we have to select options, and then it gets put to tender for the lowest bidder, which means you could pretty well end up with anything (unless you cheat the system and ask for something super specific like for example a half-ton with a diesel, or a 3/4 ton with three pedals, either resulting in getting a new Dodge). We only have a couple dodge trucks older than 5 years, maybe a half-dozen Fords older than ten years, but a couple dozen GM's more than 20 years old, including a couple low-usage ones (specifically a '76 one-ton tow truck and a '78 3-ton) that are almost 40. No Fords or Dodges over 20. But that doesn't really say much for new quality. As far as new trucks go, I'm a pretty big fan of the drivetrains of the Dodge Ecodiesel half-tons we have, although the Chevy's win out in terms of climate control (the Dodge touch-screens suck) and user-friendliness. The only new Ford we got in the last couple years was an F150 EcoBoost, but it's a Law Enforcement truck so I've never driven it.

My two cents, I've got two 4.0l's with factory pans with dents that still seal. One of them runs great, the other hasn't run since August for unrelated reason.

You totally shouldn't buy it. Just like I shouldn't buy that 2-dr 5-speed XJ I posted a couple weeks ago. I bought that XJ, btw. :D

The at2's have been great so far on gravel, it's why I'm asking. I've got them in a 235/75r15 on my MJ and in a 205/75r15 on my Niva. Decent in the snow to boot. But I want 33's on the MJ and don't want to change my factory wheels, which limits me to 10.5-wide. And I need severe snow ratings... Snow tires do not live long happy lives on gravel. I emailed Continental, explaining all that and most importantly that I didn't want to change my factory wheels. Their response was one sentence in which they recommended changing my wheels. Needless to say I wasn't exactly impressed with that answer. My only 33x10.5 15 snow-rated AT option is the BFG KO2 so far, but we have them on most of the trucks at work, and most of them have a patch or two or six from rocks getting pushed through.

Buying and MJ is never a mistake. Which flywheel are you using?

So... can get you get them to make me some AT2's in a 33x10.5r15? Or maybe those X3's if they're snow-rated and won't get torn to $#!& by gravel roads.

I've signed up for a 5000 mile trip to/through Death Valley in my Lada. My buddy's signed himself up with his '74 Mazda that hasn't run for more than a minute at a time in the last ten years. You'll be fine. :D

The AT2's are a hair under 40lbs in a 31x10.5x15. The original red letter Grabbers are a completely different animal... Don't think they would be a good choice for a daily driver unless your commute takes you primarily across jagged boulders.

I personally like that they sling rocks... I'd much rather have them come out than stay in and push a hole into the tire. 25% of my driving is on gravel and they take it pretty well. Only issue I had with the tires was a nail through one, had them for four years now. They're also great in the snow and on ice. Not like a dedicated snow tire would be, but excellent for a tire that doesn't get torn to crap by gravel.

The modern driver education system in North America also doesn't help any, what with only focusing on teaching the driving rules, and not on vehicle operation. Telling someone not to panic and steer into the skid and look in the direction they want to go isn't going to help them any if the first time they have to do it is when they're sliding sideways towards a pole at 50mph because they didn't even realize they were sliding until it was too late. The "avoid sliding because there's no way to recover" approach I got in driver's ed wasn't exactly helpful either.

And the OP was asking about used wheels.

The last couple XJ production years had a 16" option. ZJ's, KJ's, and TJ's also got some 16's from the factory, with the same 5x4.5 pattern and similar width and offsets. I like this website for checking wheels specs, but I'm not sure they list by anything other than application.

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1053970 Should cover any swap questions you have. Use the flexplate that goes with the engine control system. Renix or HO.

You should be able to use google to find a diagram of the gauge cluster. As to the torque capabilities, which motor do you have? The 4.0 has a long flat torque curve, something like 150lb-ft available already at 1200rpm. I just picked up my first 4.0 ax15 XJ this weekend, and it's very reminiscent of a tractor, pretty much just stick it in a gear and it goes. Contrast this to my Lada which won't accelerate much at all below 3000 rpm...