gogmorgo

You probably knocked something loose. What year and engine? It'll determine what your fuse panel and wiring look like so a circuit diagram can be posted up to help you figure it out.

Don't do it if you really don't want to. No one here is going to stop you from doing what you want on your own truck. Race cars use them mostly to make it easier to change them out in a hurry. That's really the only advantage, and they also don't have the best longevity in road cars because they aren't as easy to keep cool as an in-tank pump, especially when you see low speeds with not much airflow. And frankly, how often do you need to change the fuel pump? The one I pulled out a couple weeks ago was old enough the original ones were still in production when it went in, if it wasn't the original pump itself... But you do you. It's not necessarily a bad idea to go to an external pump, we just don't really see the point.

I've done both. Pulling out the trans is so much less work than pulling the engine and trans. The oil pan and rear main seal can also be done in the truck. As far as the rear freeze plug is concerned, there's a chance you can get at it better with the trans out (because the engine tips back) but unless it needs replaced, I wouldn't touch freeze plugs.

Working the regular brake is a good way to break front axle shafts... I may have experience there.

Changing the fuel pump in an MJ isn't even a huge project. I did one in the alley behind a strip mall across from my hotel a couple weeks ago, took less than two hours, including figuring out how to adapt the stupid Delphi pump (if I did it again I'd go for the Bosch). Just make sure you have under a half-tank of gas before you start and you're golden. Everything comes out the side of the tank, and I didn't even need to get the truck in the air, or even drop the tank.

Interesting. In my experience the DRL's just turn on the low beams when the engine's running. But then they only worked on one of the three XJ/mj's I've owned. I believe DRL's were an option in the US of A, and that you should be able to get them working just by plugging in the module to the existing connector. If I had another working module I'd offer to send it down but I gave that one away already to someone who actually cared about DRL's... In my mind the low beams by themselves aren't adequate for poor-weather visibility because they don't turn on the tail lights.

My experience with race parts is that generally speaking off-the-shelf components for other non-race vehicles seldom provide what you're looking for, unfortunately. But you probably already knew that. My team had custom rotors turned, solid with a whole bunch of cross-drilling, I think just from grey cast. Hope you find something that works for you, though.

Not sure what exactly you're planning, but I'm not sure you'd want something big enough to require 8-lug rotors to be stopping without adequate heat evacuation. Unless the odd thing you've got only needs to stop once and has time to completely cool down again. When I worked at partsource, the biggest solid rotors I remember seeing were I think for a Grand Caravan. But then I wasn't really keeping an eye out for them. I don't remember seeing 8-lugs without vents though.

Yeah I saw that a while back. Guy's asking waaaay too much for it.

I honestly didn't need to know how hot it was yesterday. Had to shut off the a/c and prop the hood open to make it up the hill and out, couldn't quite bring myself to turn on the heater...Unfortunately we're on the way back to Monterey, then we'll likely be heading north to get home. as much as I'd love to go out and visit everywhere, we're on a pretty tight schedule.

Just to follow up, made it all the way through Death Valley via Portland, San Fransisco, Monterey, Sacramento, Fallon, and Bakersfield with no issues at all.

Well, made it all the way from Lethbridge, AB to Ritzville, WA, just short of 500 miles, with no issues. Well, I suppose I was getting concerned about the trans or throttle valve because it wasn't kicking down the way I expected, even rest the tv cable a couple times, but the solution was as simple as putting it back in power instead of comfort. :wall: Seems the new pump did the trick. It's great to have my truck back. "Accidentally" left some rubber on an on-ramp or two :thumbsup:

It had a couple, but they weren't quite up to the task. But with some creative hose clamping it worked out. I'm not convinced all the fuel is coming through the sock now, but the tank didn't look bad inside so I hope it's still good. The truck starts better now than it did as well. Also the spark plugs weren't awful, but it's definitely been running pretty lean. Hopefully this is the fix. Feels a bit up on power from before, but time will tell. Getting back on the road now.

The pump I pulled out is a LOT bigger than the Delphi FE0108. Gonna take some creativity to get it in there. But otherwise the sending unit looked great. The sock has some gunk on it but not a super huge amount. This tank is much cleaner on the inside. Picture's blurry cause it was taken through a ziplock because new phone+gassy fingers. The pump that was in there is a Bosch, numbers on it are 9580810019, 069-11, 31, 8933003591 0J11.

Um... Without admitting to anything, let's just say that catalytic converters aren't relevant to this discussion. We'll see in the morning what's going on. Just changed a taillight bulb and discovered I also need to actually redo the taillight harness that's been hacked to $#!&. It appears that instead of just having sketchy trailer wires, I have the joy of having hacked off sketchy trailer wires. Somehow haven't really looked at them in four years... I just wanted to fix one thing today... :( Well, at least I unclogged the a/c drain tube, so that's something I guess.

P71 springs are taller, no?

Well the injector cleaner did basically nothing. I think I'll swap the pump in tomorrow morning, and the spark plugs too. Haven't ever had them out of this engine, would have changed them a long time ago, but my neigbour is all "I want to learn how to do car things" and she's hot but she's allways busy... But that another problem the Internet can't solve for me... Made it another 150 km down the road and it was good for a little while but quickly lost power, at this point I've got 1700rpm and no more. Just pulled away from a light, think I might have done zero to 30mph in about a minute. No bueno. Something that puzzles me a little though is it backfires like crazy if I push the pedal down too far, almost makes me wonder if it's an ignition thing. I guess we'll find out in the morning.

Well, managed to find a pump. It's the Delphi, but at this point I'll take it. Also picked up a filter (herp derp, the parts drone reminded me) and a bottle of injector cleaner. I should add the reason I suspect the fuel pump is because I've never replaced it and have no reason not to believe it isn't original. It's at least four years old. Also I had to kick the bottom of the tank a few times back when I swapped the engine after it sat 16 months, and it's slowly been getting louder. I'll do the injector cleaner and filter first, and then do the pump once I've drained the tank a bit more.

So I'm on my way to California with the MJ, and encountering a new issue. As I drive, after an hour or so, it starts bogging under throttle. Initially I can't go past 3000rpm, and it slowly drops until it starts cutting out at 2000... not ideal when I've got mountains coming up. I've checked fuel pressure while it's hot, and I've got 31 at idle, 39-41 with the regulator vacuum unplugged, but it drops to ~20 psi at wot with the regulator off. I've bypassed the ballast resistor. I have perfect continuity to ground at the fuel pump's connector, although the connector is a little corroded. I've tried cleaning it off, no help. I couldn't find power at either other terminal at the connector with key on, but it runs and idles great. I've stopped at every parts store I've seen in the last 1000km, and none had the pump in stock. I'm in Medicine Hat, about to try the Canadian tire. Might pick up some foil to wrap around the fuel rail while I'm there. Once it cools down, it's fine for a while. I've got a set of spark plugs to put in in the morning (when I won't burn myself) but I'm out of ideas. Flat Saskatchewan highways are fine as long as I don't need to pass, but I don't think I can get up mountains like this. I also only have codes 12 and 55. I even on the right track with fuel?

I'm definitely convinced that even if it does reduce the life of the bulb, a couple extra bulbs over the life of the truck is definitely not a significant enough savings to risk burning down the truck...

The stock one? Because it is of small gauge wire and runs through the switch. Lots of resistance in the circuit and the switch has the breaker in it. This. Also worth noting: my headlight switch didn't just burn out, IT SET ITSELF ON FIRE. Quick reactions to put it out saved my MJ from burning to the ground. There are many instances of people not being so lucky.

Great news! My parts came in today! Unfortunately a mix-up during the online store's website overhaul (and user account database transition) lead to the package getting sent to an old shipping address. Fortunately the address was my parents' house. Unfortunately it meant I had to drive 120 miles through some of the worst weather I've driven through in my admittedly kinda short life... after seeing photos and videos on social media after I got home, it looks like I drove past and/or under about three separate funnel clouds which I didn't notice because I could barely see the lines on the road through the rain while being tossed around by the wind and getting battered by hail I was seriously worried was going to take out my windshield. Today was my Friday before a 16-day "weekend". Hopefully the weather doesn't suck tomorrow, because I'll be outside installing all this. Wednesday will see the last of the stereo go together, and some test and tune, and hopefully Thursday morning will see hitting the road to California. I'll have to document some of this stuff, because like with everything, the Niva seems to have a very unique brake setup. As a hint, the front callipers have three pistons, and two lines going to them.

Because AMC engine made forever with SAE tooling and Jeep built with metric because metric is the future.

As Hornbrod said. You can cut and splice if you want, or you can just push male spade connectors into the socket. You keep it around because there's no reason not to. What you're doing is using the factory headlight wiring to trigger relays that switch on the headlights. It removes the load from the not-quite-up-to-task headlight wiring, while retaining all the factory switches, functions, etc. Whenever the headlights would have come on (i.e. power goes to the old headlight sockets), the relays are triggered so the headlights come on.

Yes, and it's wrong.