Hawk

I meant are they hard to find.

I was under the impression that 96 and later, since they need to pass emissions, need to have an engine in them that came in that platform, and that anything pre 96 was fair game as far as swaps. I have a few shops that I can call today to double check for us. If I can't get it street legal, I'm selling the truck and buying something else. On edit-I know two guys with 302 V8 swaps here in StL in YJ's, so I'm really not worried about this, but I do want to make sure before I spend a bunch on chassis mods. On another edit-I just talked to one of the inspection shops around here, and he said it doesn't matter what engine it has in it. If it's after 81, it needs to have a catalytic converter on it, and it needs to have a breather on the valve cover that circulates into the intake (pcv valve). This is, of course, in addition to the rest of the typical safety inspection stuff.

If you get a blow-out it'll likely destroy any panel surrounding it. Just drive correct if you're worried about them and inspect them often.

They kept making Jeeps after '01? I didn't notice.

1984-1996 Jeep Comanche on that fender, he he. To be completely honest, if I had to do it again, I wouldn't have wasted my time putting the baja fenders on my XJ unless I was going full-width on it. They weigh the same as normal fenders, except they don't dent, they shatter. Aftermarket fiberglass panels take a lot of massaging to get them to fit like factory, and often never will. To each their own, though.

I'm actually hanging onto this picture for future reference.... Image Not Found

I'm gonna have to say thumbs down. Imo-A "functional" hood scoop means you needed more space, not more air. If you just need more air to get in, you could put in some functional vents. Only my opinion though. Just to stir the pot, here's a picture of my buddy's (Garrett, owner of Heartland Off-road) XJ that he just built a turbo stroker for, and built his own dual tb intake for. He's the one that'll be building the turbo system for my SBC MJ.

It's pretty easy, if it's a symmetrical oval, it's a 35. If it's bigger on one side than the other it's a 44.

Your front will be the Dana 30 if the truck is stock. This picture will help you identify your rear. If it's stock, it'll either be the D35 or D44.

I sold my little crappy honda to help fund my 4-tired project. It was a blast to ride, but I'd rather have 4 on the pavement. I do love that bike of yours. I always wanted one of the 750-four's, but never took the time to find one.

A few years ago for Easter I bought my wife a duckling and a baby chicken, and we had pictures of our pit bull laying there and watching them crawl all over her. One of them pecked at her nipple, then stood there for a sec, and the dog nudged it back over to try nursing it I guess. Funny thing is, we had her fixed while she was a puppy, and she never had a litter of her own.

We could do hands across America, except with your Jeep shell...I could probably get it from the StL area to Columbia (I'll be there for a bachelor party on May 2, so we've got half of Missouri taken care of. Just need to figure out who's getting it here, and who's taking it from me :yes: :rotfl2:

A couple years ago, I was in the same boat with 3.5 CJ's sitting under my carport, a tool shed full of good original fenders, grills, dash's, etc, and a garage with the one CJ I was building. I ended up selling my project for $1200, traded one of the other's for my current MJ, and sold the rest of the stuff so cheap it may as well have been free. Jeep parts aren't worth crap. Now, I can park under my carport, MJ is stripped in the garage, and my tool shed is neatly organized with my MJ project parts on one side, and the other side has all my XJ goodies that are waiting to be installed. It was just a few weeks ago when I did this organizing. I find that keeping everything in a specific spot stored in the order that I'll need it on my project gives me a little more motivation and direction to proceed on what I'm doing. There's always a breaking point, where it's better to just give the stuff away rather than sell it. It's hard to work when you're surrounded by parts you don't need.

Where is Clinton at in MO? Edit-Wow, found it. You're WAY West. I'm over by StL.

Best thing you could do with that abortion would involve a chemical fire...

Strange, which ones didn't you have, that I had marked? Mine had 10, I swear....

look through the holes in the crossmember back there, and also look up through the frame towards the rear. You should have 10 bolts, total, not 8. That's what my 88 had.

ok, mine is http://CheekyOne.mybrute.com I'm out of fights today, so you guys will have to initiate it.

:drool: I never learned to read. I just look at the pictures. :doh:

From the little bit of research I did, and the experienced people I talked to, Ron Francis kits are the best you can get if you know what you're doing, and if you want to build your own harness. EZ and Painless are supposed to be the best if you want a prewired kit. I bought an EZ because they use the good GHX insulated wire, and everything is color coded, labeled every few inches, and already in the correct looms for front, dash, interior, and rear. Your fuseblock looks good, and I think it was a good suggestion to put a full console in and switches where the ebrake was.

This is probably your best bet, or just get someone to help you. They're not super heavy, at all.

My two year old knows just enough to not scratch the paint. She can put the wrench or socket on the nut/bolt, but doesn't get that there are different sizes yet.

Ugh, beat me. My lame-o didn't get his club out.

I pulled the front solid beam axle out of mine today so I could clean and paint....

I saw that after looking at some different peoples brutes. I'm still really liking the one I made. Tonight when my fights refresh I'll use him against yours. If he remembers to pull the club out soon enough, it's usually a 1-2 hit kill.