CWLONGSHOT

POSI-LOC baby!!! Its WAY better then the problematic vacuum system!! http://www.4x4posi-lok.ca/ http://www.thejeep.com/onlinecatalog/p72.htm CW

The way the lever is, its susceptible to rust and corrosion. Its possible the linkage is rusty. One of the XJs I owned wouldn't shift at all. Part of the reason I got it cheap. there wasn't a single problem with the 4WD system accept linkage. I disconnected it, shifted from underneath with my hand and it shifted right in, out and into 4LO. NO PROBLEM. Sometime in its past, someone got the linkage wet from the inside and it completely gummed up the lever and linkage directly attached to it. This is possible because many vehicles don't use 4WD until bad weather and then its only for a couple months a year. So it sits in 2WD and doesn't move. Get under and spray everything good with penetrating oil. Remove the linkage from the T case and check for movement. Movement of the Tcase and linkage. CW

New front coil springs arrived yesterday. :cheers: I also have a new 3core radiator coming..... EDIT: Arrived today!! Need to decide on what I am going to do to stiffen the leafs... XJ main leaf..BDS full legnth helper... I don't want lift, just to increase spring rate a bit. Write-ups to follow... :brows: CW

NICE looking MJ man!!! Nice picture too!! :D :D I just today got a set of BDS 4.5" coils to replace mine with a too light spring rate. Thanks for posting the pic!!! CW

Ah, that would explain the price diff... um, nevermind! :oops: I don't need the extra cooling around here. No problem, its all good.. Thanks for the tip!! CW

XJ shackles are 3.5" long, eye to eye. MJ shackles are 5.5" eye to eye. Shackles only lift one end of your leaf spring. For this reason, you will only net about HALF the lift compared to the inches of increased shackle length. I know that can read confusing. Here is an example: A 6.5" long shackle (eye to eye measurement) will only net you approx .5" of lift on your MJ. A MJ shackle on a XJ will net approx 1 to 1.25" of lift. CW

Scott, Are you sure this is for a three core radiator? I could get a two core for $119 delivered from same place I got mine too... CW

Thanks a bunch man, I really appreciate the offer!!! I actually have one in the cherokee I have out back. I really want to keep a three core in this vehicle. I'm pulling the 4.0 out of it Saturday, so I'll look closely at that rad. It will likely go on the shelf, as a spare. Thank you again for th offer of your radiator. Your one of the reasons this place ROCKS!!! Generosity and the willingness to help a fellow jeeper out!!! :cheers: You rule man!!! CW

Possibly...but its coming from a number of places....... I am just worried what else will spring up after these are fixed... CW

Now that's a whole different story...don't get old... Lets just say, preparation H is a GOOD friend of mine!! :roll: ;) :oops: CW

This also is going to be a problem. Its a tight fit and almost always hard to remove. I sacrificed a bolt for this long ago. I call it s "banging bolt". Just know if you do this the bolt will be USELESS for anything else. Turn the wheel to gain access. Insert bolt most of the way so as much as possible of the threads have made contact. Give the head of the bolt a good solid whack with a three pound sledge. Remove the bolt, replace it in another hole and repeat. Don't get carried away, you NEED TO Remove this as even as possible. Once you finally get it out, clean all mating surfaces REALLY GOOD. Wire wheel works well for this. When re-assembeling, apply a coat of anti-sleaze, you know the silver stuff. Good luck, CW

Looks like I have a bit more damage from my freezing episode a few weeks back..... Monday I noticed a antifreeze smell when I got to work. Didn't think much of it.... Someone pointed out I had some oil spots under the jeep, I said, not mine, it doesn't leak. Well...it does now. :eek: My pass side axle tube and suspension is all wet. Closer inspection shows a pretty green fluid dripping off everything. the block is dry, hoses too. The fan shroud stops the fluid from spraying on the engine. But its dripping down and the wind from driving is soaking the underside of the MJ. Looked last night, but the light wasn't good, and didn't really have the time for a good inspection. I got a chance to look closer tonight. Seems a very fine mist is coming out of the bottom of the nice new radiator. You know, the one I just put in over the summer.... :cry: :cry: There goes a buck and a half down the tubes. :mad: :headpop: :headpop: :mad: Ordered a replacement tonight from radiator express. MAN these things are going up!! Cost me, $217 shipped!!! Just wanted to share.... CW

They will work...BUT, the control arm design is one that will be a bit more harsh and not as flexible. The factory CA's flex pretty easily because they are made of light metal. They isolate and also flex a but thru the rubber bushings they have at either end. These you selected will allow you to get your caster back, but because of the poly bushings and rigid design, won't flex. Under extreme articulation put ALOT of stress of the brackets. My personal choice for CA's are the JKS brand. http://store.jksmfg.com/merchant2/merch ... oil_Spring The TB will allow you to center your axle after the lift but, Like Pete mantioned, the TRE end is also a limiting factor in overall flex. the TRE only has so much range of motion. BEST case is that you mount is absolutely square to the ground. This is not possible as your lift grows. as it grows it points to the axle taking away from the amount of droop it can give you. Understand? My preference, Again I choose the JKS brand. I have this on my TJ. http://store.jksmfg.com/merchant2/merch ... Components For even better flex, I prefer the WJ style conversion. Kevin's makes a conversion to this style bushing. JKS makes the bar for them and they modify a factory mount to make it work. This is whats on my MJ. Its not cheap, but you can recoup $50 if you send them your old frame side, TB bracket. http://www.kevinsoffroad.com/tbconversion.html The bottom testimonial is mine!! Brian Schoonmaker. Good luck, hope this was helpful, CW

Abso friggin' loutely!! I didn't know freakin' liberals owned tire stores!!! None of there frikin' business what they are for or off of. There business is selling mounting and installing tires. You have work for them. Tell them to just mount the tires and STFU. :eek: :D :roll: :brows: CW

Lowers first but that depends on the height of your lift. A couple two inches can get by with factories. At three inches you need to look into longer lowers. At four both are useful and adjustable getting to be a necessity. At 5-6" you need to look at lots stuff. Steering, possible longer drive shafts, Long Arms or Drop Brackets and def Adj. control arms TOP and BOTTOM. Here is a link to lots info: http://www.yuccaman.com/jeep/re_db.html#arms CW

Sorry man... CW

Its built for life in the rocks.... Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found I got sick and tired of having to pay for a balancing EVERYTIME I wheeled!!! CW

They hit the rocks and get pushed round the rim stopping in bad places making long drives home of the freeway "challenging". :roll: :eek: :D CW

Nope, the TJ has discs all round. What you see are called, CENTRAMATICS. They are full of a fine silica sand. They balance the tires and rims using centrifugal force. CW

I have a thing for weird and old bullets.... I cannot find the pics I had.... Here is one of the boxed stuff. This is not the really old stuff. Most of the really old stuff is single pieces. I also have a affinity for knives and swords. I have a number of these as well. CW

Pete, That's why I asked if it would move at all or it needed to be shifted back to 2WD to get moving. Its going to be a weakest link kinda thing. SOMETHING has to give if it moves. OK, now I am more leaning to a badly stretched chain and or worn chain sprocket's... CW

Well, I am glad I was a help.. Just sorry it wasn't the answer you wanted. Did ya notice the weight of those IROC's? They are a heavy tire. I picked up some X TERRAINS last summer for my TJ and MAN there they HEAVY too!! I can REALLY feel the difference driving the TJ now!! The dia is nearly identical as the BFG's that I had, I can feel/notice the weight jst driving it. CW

LOL... just spit sunkist all over the puter screen... thanks guys!! CW

Bound up how? Like it don't move and you have to shift back into2WD to go anywhere? Likely someone swapped out the axle and its a diff Ratio... CW

OK, I'm in uncharted waters for me.. (NOT a cheby guy) BUT looks like there WHERE in fact a number of different spline counts. BUT these where for diff applications. 2WD go diff than 4WD and then there where diff packages, like heavy half tons and normal half tons. Then even more changes based on year of manufacture. Also seems Cheby had a bit lighter duty stuff than the GMC line did.... Any one wonder or now see why I am not a GM guy!!! Best idea is to pop the cover or pull an axle. That way you will be sure. Just a thought, what about the stealer ship and you vin number? Couldn't they tell ya something? Sorry I not more definitive on this one, but its not my thing... CW