CWLONGSHOT

I need a measurement of them installed. Just not to fenders, as mine are chopped. :D .. Some place that will be consistent between both our rigs...like maybe the top of the coil plate (On axle) where bump stop hits) to the upper shock mounting point. Mine are 4.5" coils of unknown manufacturer. they are a bit soft and flex very well, but I want some a bit stiffer. i think the RE's will fit the bill. Need /want another set of front coils but want to be sure they do not end up being taller than the rear is... BTW, if you don't remember, I am running 4" Rusty's leaves SUA along with 1" lifted shackles. THANKS, CW

I (like others) assumed you where buying a COMPLETE UNIT. They must have increased the diameter as well when the HIPERF 4.0 came out. like I said above, they are different, but if you had bought/used the ENTIRE unit it would have worked for you. Sorry for the assumption. CW

Sorry to say that you can now ad your self to the LONG LIST of people who bought Rusty's junk and found out its mostly CRAP!!!! Sorry to say, but you need a new track bar. Just accept that your going to have to buy another TB. This time, buy a more REPUTABLE BRAND!! I have had a bunch of different adjustable track bars and feel JKS makes the best. I have a reg JKS on my TJ and a Kevin's conversion JKS on the MJ. No they are not the cheapest, but as your learning. Cheapest ain't the best. There are others out there that are also well made, JKS is my choice. This is first hand experience, not hearsay or derived from something someone else wrote. Good luck, CW

If they are poly, get some white lithium grease and GET USED TO IT!!! ;) Poly is good but can be noisy. Lots of lubes will quiet it down temp but I have found white lithium grease works best and usually is what manufactures recommend. BTW, truck looks GREAT!!! CW

Thanks man! But you'll learn plenty doing what your doing!! Ask the question, do the project your self with some friends and the guidance provided here. I have learned allot form the guys on here as well!! Being a bit older than most members here, also helps. I guess you could say, I am approaching, the been there and done that part of my life. :roll: Here is something to wrap you brain around: You don't know, what you don't know until you know it. CW

Need mileage..then go to Kelly blue book. Likely its worth more as its getting into collectable ststus. But this will give you a base. Oh yea.. POST PIX!!!!! CW

Glad you got it done!! Looks like you learned something as well!! Like I said, its likely just the O rings, but could be the injectors them selves. The differences you noticed will not hurt a thing. Likely different sources threw the years with different composits. Good thing you had the spares, those injectors are not cheap!!! CW

Here is a graphic of positive caster: And here is a link: http://www.circletrack.com/howto/138_03 ... index.html CW

Dude... Whats up with that avatar????? You shaved your cat!!! Oh my GAWD, that's freaking hysterical!!!! Apologies to the cat lovers out there, I am not one, but my rottie says they are tasty!! CW

I installed brandy new brackets in the DB's when I did them. All my adjustment is from the JKS and RE adjustable CA's. CW

Here is what Mine is set at. I have almost 7" of lift and no wobbles what so ever. Image Not Found Image Not Found CW

On the fenders of our MJ's and XJ, 4" BS seems about max, 4.5 is about perfect right for the lions share of the tires people run. So as long as your staying with in 11" wide and less then 35'' tall, these rims should do what you want. CW

John, They are either 14-20 or 5/16-18. For the life of me I cannot remember which. But no worries, just bring one in with you and thread check it against a gage or the tap itself. CW

Its possible, but likely just the o rings. With a bit of common sense and some simple hand tools, you can do this your self. You can get a "O" Ring kit at the parts store and fix these pretty easily. Get everything out of the way and all the wires off the injectors. Then do them one at a time. One tip, clean off the area around the injectors REALLY good. you don't want any junk falling in the open injector holes. Don't drive it this way!!!! Good luck, CW

I have used them with out any problems... BUT they ARE DIFFERENT and carry different part numbers. This happened with the hi perf 4.0 came out. Its got a little different bend. But like I said, I personally have run them and both worked just fine. CW

Here is the link to all my pics of my trimmed fenders... here is a pic of what I did: CW

You can grind that one out and put in a replacement fromt the "HELP" rack!! I have made countless shock mounts with these, they are great!! CW

Asuming you have a D35 now... The DS will be too long if staying at stock height. MJ's don't have a conventional Proportion valve. What they do have is attached to the rear of the vehicle. Just remove the axle part and modify to fit in same position. The brake lines are standard. the sensible thing to do is to replace, but if old in good shape, likely could be reused. Don't know the width off hand. but just measure the one you got once its out! Good luck, CW

If directly associated with the clutch. It could also be the throw out bearing. CW

I am gonna guess the rear leaf springs. Mine do this almost exactly as you describe, only I have an auto. I spray them down with a good penetrating lube and they are good for a couple months. CW

First off, the 4.0's like it hot. In the summer with the fact gage and a 195stst, I to run close to 210 on the highway. I also have brandy new last summer, Rad, hoses, T-stat, W pump and Heater core. Now that its a bit cooler, I am running where I thought it would with the lower temp stat. I am going out on a limb and saying I think you may be just fine...just chalk it up to the crappy, factory, inaccurate gages. CW

I think you had mentioned OTK before. This is a option, but sometimes other things need to be addressed to utalize this. I have the JCR setups on both my wheeler jeeps.. My MJ is about 6" of lift and the angles are good with little to no bump steer. CW

I agree, also you will need some RTV for a gasket unless you have the paper Jobie. (Even then I prefer the RTV.) Clean both surfaces spic and span clean. Lay down a bead all the way around. Let it set up for a short time. Install but don't torque down right away. Allow the RTV to set up a bit more then tighten down in a criss cross pattern. Fill with hypoid, but don't overfill. If filled properly, you should just be able to touch the fluid if you stick your little finger in the fill hole. Don't for get the add the slip agent if you have a L:S diff. Good luck, CW

I haven't seen Johnny Joints small enough for this use.... Two words come to mind for all steering linkages...SINGLE SHEAR. Its not a good thing and should be avoided. TRE's work well for most all steering setups. The ONLY WAY I would use other stuff is if it was off road only. I mean truly ONLY. Like trailered EVERYWHERE but the trail. TRE's are not generally the problem, trying to make too steep angles work after the lift is the problem. As a rule, it doesn't work, not because of the TRE's, because geometry. TRE's work very well if a working knowledge of steering geometry is put into your steering setup. JMHO, CW

I agree. This is what I did on both my offroad jeeps, when I went to the 3/4 ton, steering setup I am running. CW