87manche

it's not that simple. You've got ground and hot,. but you also have the wires from the drivers door that control the passsenger side door. IIRC the passenger side door gets it's power from the drivers side door. Don't take my word for it, but I know there's wiring that goes from one door to the other. If you didn't want the drivers door to control the passenger side doo r you could probably just wire ground and hot to the motor and switch.

I second the mopar performance parts perches. They cost me $8 for a set at the local dealer. To do my XJ to MJ axle swap the axle simply needed perches. We had a spare MJ d35 to take measurements for pinion angle and such from. I reused the shock mounts on the spring plates. It was the easiest route. I plan on doing an 8.8 so I wasn't going to invest too much in the d35.

definitely let us know about that Eagle. i've got a passenger side door that suffers the same affliction.

I've got a long AAL in the rear of my MJ, I don't have the gap, and the sprigs seem none the worse. It doesn't flex for crap though. I think I'm going spring over in the rear next summer and going back to stock spring packs.

yes. Body style changed in 97. Might want to grab the body side of the wiring harness though, it's not likely that you have the same electrical hookups hidden in the MJ, if you have them at all.

http://stu-offroad.com/steering/stop/steerstop-1.htm there's a writeup about the steering stops.

someone sells aftermarket sliding rear windows on ebay. 4 door cherokee dorrs from 86-96 will fit, as will al the guts of the door. Guage cluster will need to be from an 87-90, unless you want to change to chryco temp senders and such. if you switch to guages you'll need new temp and oil senders anyways. Steering wheel should be anything with the GM column without an airbag, so probably 87-91 or 92. And what's wrong with the 87 wheel, I like mine.

26th is carnagefest, I'm already obligated. If you're looking that late in auguse why not consider the first week in september, that way you can get a 3 day weekend with labor day.

crank it a few times then pull a spark plug. If you smell gas or the end of the plug is wet then the injectors are firing. You didn't mention is you checked the TPS or adjusted it. That's where I would go next. You may also want to make sure that the fuel pump is running while cranking, it's fed by a different circuit when the key is in the start position.

My 31's don't rub the frame so bad, but my wheel weights are taking a beating. I think you'd rub with stock tires.

not sure about the 1, my vin is similar being a 4.0 LWB 4x4, my option code is P, and it's a pioneer. edit. The jeep VIN decoder says that's a control digit. Here's my VIn Control (check) digit calculation Symbol 1 J T M L 6 5 P 1 H T 0 2 8 9 4 8 Numeric value: 1 1 T 4 3 6 5 7 * 8 3 0 2 8 9 4 8 Weight factor: 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 10 * 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 Products: 8 7 18 20 12 18 10 70 * 72 24 0 12 40 36 12 16 The sum of all 16 products : 375 375 divided by 11 gives a remainder 1 Another words, 375 =( 34 x 11) + 1 Thus, on 9-th position of a VIN-code there should be a symbol 1

those leafs look a ways away from the axle tube in the picture. Blocks?

My wedding reception is august 19. the NAXJA MWC carnagefest is the following week. If we can find a time I may be able to take Pete with me. You make it down 71 to Ashland and can ride right seat in my LWB. You gotta ride with Rocky though, he's my wheeling buddy.

bearing preload makes sure that the bearing stays together and that the bearings rotate. If you don't set the preload it's likely the bearings will skate in the races, or get cockeyed. Bearing death is iminent without the proper preload.

gears are seperate from a locker. There are two types of lockers. The "lunchbox" style(aussie, lockright) replace your spider gears, you simply pop the carrier out, install the locker in your existing carrier and pop it back in. The carrier style lockers(detroit, ARB, OX) replace the stock carrier completely, these require that you pull the carrier, remove the ring gear from your current carrier and install it on the locker. These require resetting the backlash when installed. If you're doing gears then you might as well get the full carrier, it's stronger, and you an go selectable.

I know there's a company making a swingout for the yota crowd, might want to take a look at it for some ideas. A 31 will fit under the bed, mine does with room to spare. I generally strap mine from front to back, up against the bed rail when I'm wheeling.

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.p ... post828698 I know, I'm too lazy to recreate the post. She did alright for all seasons, lockers are cool.

odd, the one I saw looked just like my MT one. Perhaps it was an Ho one. it ended up that the parts guy had no freakin clue, so who knows what he was showing me. Thanks for the clarification.

secure it around the edge. If that's not enough then I would look at rubber blocks, and some kind of epoxy to hold it all together. Rough up the surfaces before you epoxy them together and it will likely hold up alright. Heat is going to be your biggest problem with an adhesive on the roof.

not to mention weight, how much do mog axles weigh? 4-500 pounds?

d44 is not a c-clip axle :)

get someone to help you with the headgasket job. That way you can remove the head with the manifolds still attached. It's much easier to get the manifolds off while they're on the bench. The lower bolts are a PITA to get at

the problem with that is that you could order a Jeep just about any way you wanted back then. There were packages, but you could roder the skid plates and HD axles on a base model truck if you wanted. Trim Levels 86 - Custom, X, XLS 87 - Base, Pioneer, Chief, Laredo, SporTruck 88 - Base, Pioneer, Chief, Laredo, Eliminator, SporTruck 89 - Base, Pioneer, Chief, Laredo, Eliminator, SporTruck 90 - Base, Pioneer, Chief, Laredo, Eliminator, SporTruck 91 - Base, Laredo, Eliminator, SporTruck 92 - Base, Laredo, Eliminator, SporTruck This was taken from Here http://jeepforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=135806 There are some inaccuracies in that thread, but it's got the gist of it correct. Just to through you a loop. I've got an 87 Pioneer, buckets, full guage cluster, and a sunroof but, a Rubber mat floor, no AC and no power anything. like i said, trim packages were pretty loose with what one could order.

I can when I get back from vacation. I'm going to be way too busy tonight to get to it. I have a sunroof though, so mine will be different. It doesn't look like there's anything in the middle of the roof, just wround the edges.

Overheating is pretty common with MJs and XJ's the radiator and cooling system is barely adequate when it's functioning perfectly. One thing goes bad and it's hosed. Does it overheat while cruising down the higway or just at idle? If just at idle I'd say fan clutch, if on the highway then I say you have a flow problem, and that's a plugged Rad, worn pump or stuck thermostat.You might also want to check the pressure bottle for craks and leaks, and make sure that the cap is sealing properly. A pressure leak will be detrimental to the system. The pukegoat sucks, give it some fresh oila dn see what happens, and be on the lookout for an AX-15 to replace it with. Start gathering parts, it's not a matter of if the french trans fails, it's when. if you've got suspension noises up front check all the tie rod ends and rubber bushings. Don't forget the trackbar, it's very important. I'm willing to bet that all the rubber bushings are shot up front. New control arms are thankfully really cheap with bushings already installed. look for Crown automotive ones, they're about $20 a piece. Do they use salt up there? if so then plan on cutting a few of those bolts, they're metric and grade 10.9, I can't remember what size. I had to do three of them when I did my lift. Have replacements on hand and a good supply of sawzall blades, it took me about 2 blades per bolt, those buggers are tough. High idle is either a vac leak, TPS or IAC. You might want to test the TPS with an analog meter and clean out the throttle body. Check the gasket and the torque on the manifolds when you do the headgasket. I6 engines have such long manifolds that they tend to leak when the bolts come a little loose. When you trake off the manifolds make sure you put back the reverse domed washers. If you damage them or they fall apart from rust then you can find replacements as "belleville" washers. The clicking in the console sounds alot like the pueguots doing. Drive to the top of a big hill, put it in gear and push the clutch in. Roll it down the hill. if the clicking exists with the engine disengaged from the driveline then it's soemthing in the driveline for sure. i'd check the u-joints in the driveshafts, and then I'd suspect the trans before the t-case. Check the T-case chain for slack though, they make a clicking noise when the chain slips. The 4.0 is a tank, I've got 251K miles on mine, and it's not uncommon for them to hit 400+ before needing torn down. It all depends on how the previous owner took care of it. Hope this all helps.