87manche

oh man, we'll have to see about that, I had a blast when we came out for Carnagefest. I hope that you guys got the ribs and fish we left in the fridge for ya :)

brilliant! as a side, considered making your own? Plexi in the 3/16 flvor isn't har to form with a little heat, hell even 1/4 isn't that bad. Heat it evenly where you're bending it and use an old tail light as your tempplate. Once you've got the curve down I'd gut a stock tail light and use it as the base. Paint the inside with some reflective chrome paint and button it up. Retention is the only problem I fore see, but you're on your own for that one.

you'll need a fuel presure guage that goes up to 50 psi at least. I'm not sure what your 2.5 is supposed to have, but on the 4.0 of the renix flavor it should read 31 PSI with the vacuum line connected and 39 PSI without.

easiest way is the spline count. AX-15's all have a 23 spline output. AX-5's were 21 I believe. Dimensionally they are very similar, with trans length being the same for both. The AX-15 has more pronounce structural webbing. I'd recommend you go to novak-adapt.com and look in the knowledge base there for pictures and dimensions.

http://www.por15.com/

Mine's tagged with a c on the housing. It came from a 90 and it's non-c clip. I guess it depends on what they had laying around the Toledo plant.

not quite true. All t-cases behind the autos were 21 spline until the HO model year in 91. The AX-15 however has always had a 23 spline output, and Jeep started putting those in mid 89.

I can't deny the awesomeness of that.

also, it's not just blowby, it's the silly CCV system getting plugged and reversing direction. Do a compression test, if you've got good numbers and the difference between a wet cylinder and a dry cylinder isn't too much replace the CCV harness and I bet the problem goes away. I had my airbox pull so much oil in it leaked all into the fender well. I guess that's what happens when you forget to plug that aft vacuum hose back in :dunce:

painted rock, Mount Perry OH. www.offroadohio.com I'm gonna be there sunday.

I believe you're looking for a "block bracket" JY is the best bet. If you're looking to upgrade MORE makes a bombproof set that cures the broken bolt problem.

depends why it's stuck. If it's stuck because a shift fork is bent or something it shouldn't cost a ton to fix it. If it's stuck beacuse a bearings loose and the shafts are misaligned you're looking at a total rebui;d of the trans.

my clutch went out when the hose split. After 20 years I guess it's apt to do that. Replacement hose is available at NAPA, cost me $28 and it's a special order part. You'll need to know what trans you have, the hose is different for the BA-10 and the AX-15. Being that you've got an 89 you could have either, as it was the changeover year.

that's how I operate. Unfortunately you will occasionally forget about it, or think you have the lever pushed down and it's still engaged. I'm going to fix my light :)

anything not HO is renix 87-90

X2 the newer 231 cases had a switch in the t-case to light up the dash light. You'll need one of those. I'm pretty sure it replaced the vac switch.

my brother has tj rear flares all the way round on his XJ. I think it looks good. search www.xjdb.com big photo database.

Hell, the 06 schematics I use at work aren't always right with the wiring colors. I have always been led to believe that the ZJ was the last vehicle design actually done, for the most part, by AMC. true, and that's why it was the last suv to not have an independent suspension. THe guy that designed the XJ front suspension was in charge of the zj one too.

the amc owners association recognizes 87 as the last AMC year. chrysler did not make any major changes to the desig until the HO MY in 91. So an AMC manual should be good up until 91. I use an 88 FSM with my 87, and it's pretty much all the same with some exceptions like the fuel pump ballast resistor. sometimes wire colors are different, leading me to find the connector and which pin the wire is. I then write the new color in the 88 book.

that's interesting, gonna have to research that.

all aw4's are mechanically identical. The electronics package differed through the many iterations of renix an obd. You'll need to save the wiring harness from your trans, then graft it to the wiring harness of the new trans. a few minutes with the respective wiring diagrams should tell you what wires need to be soldered to what. your renix TCU can control the new trans, the solenoid operation never changed. As pete mentioned, it's not a difficult job to make the newer 231 mechanically operate the speedo. NP cases were also virualy identical, so it's as simple as removing the assembly from an older case, (88 ) and putting it into the new case (98 )

if they sell firestone look into daytons, made by bridgestone/firestone, just not warranted for treadlife. I know 3 people with dayton timberline at's and they like them. One's got 15k on a set and they're about 70%

Wheel cylinder is $11 at advance auto. I did the same thing as jeff, minus the fubaring of the hardline.

x2. and they raise the price of the tires so you're not really getting one "free" It's more like buy 4 and get $50 off. I suggest you look into Maxxis tires. Best bang for the buck, I'm likely going to get some buckshots myself, and I know a few people with the bighorns that like them plenty.