87manche

the whole truck is a poorly wired system, add to it 20 years of age and these things are an electrical nightmare. I'm drawing up plans to graft in a late model PDC and rewire the critical components with heavier guage wire. The single best improvement to my trucks electrical system was to add more grounds from the battery to the body, and the motor to the body. everything works better.

my blower motor drops the voltage gauge by 2 volts the instant you turn it on. Doesn't matter what setting it's on. The factory volt meter is unreliable and inaccurate. Just know what it normally runs at, and it it changes get out your voltmeter and check the voltage in the engine compartment.

the mopar perches are pure beef. Definitely the best deal going.

if going through all the trouble of mounting a guage for the electrical system I would probably go with an ammeter, it's usually a better indication of how your electrical/charging system is functioning.

x2 on the grounds. Par particular attention to the front bulb sockets. They're a stupid design that lets the ground in the socket corrode. I fixed mine by cutting down one of the wife's emery boards to fit the little hole on the side (behind the gasket), and using that to clean up the mess of green copper corrosion down there. I then spray it full of oxgard. Been fine for a year now.

either way the u-joint is the weak spot. Like was mention before, the flage helps protect the yoke a little bit.

yeah, but it says it's a fiberglass body, so be at ease that he didn't take a nice musclecar and hack it up.

you shouldn't need the crossmember, but you may need to move yours so you may need some nutcerts. You'll need the proper trans mount. You'll need the bellhousing and everything in it. You'll likely need the t-case atached. Vent is on the top, just put a rubber hose on it and a hose clamp, run it to the top of the firewall. You'll probably need the t-case linkage. You'll definitly need the shifter from the AX-15, as the BA-10 shifter is way different.

man, I really like that trackbar they have at bulletproof. They might get my cash when I finally buy an adjustable.

Just thought I'd ask. Don't know how many cars I see around here with headlamps that have the output of flashlights because the plastic lenses are all scratched up and need polished. Take pictures.

rather than turn it into a rallye car have you looked at why the stock lights are horrible? lenses foggy? low voltage at the sockets?

I wouldn't use jnkyard u-bolts

as far as I know 4.56 was only in 2.5L trucks equiped with the aw4, a rare find indeed. If you've got a 2.5L with a 5 speed it will likely be 4.10 2.5L with a 4 speed=3.55 4.0-auto=3.55 4.0 5spd=3.07. General giudlines, there were some factory 3.73 axles, but it depends on how your particular truck was optioned.

it wil run, but you'll need to plug the hose so you don't have a vacuum leak. It stores vacuum for the HVAC controls to move the motors in the dash. wihout it you'll be stuck on defrost.

well, if it's seperated from the motor by and inch or two I'd say it's hung up somewhere in the clutch. Pull real hard and I bet it'll pop off. You did get the two 'hidden' torx bolts on the top right?

have you removed the shifter inside the cab?

gojeep.willyshotrod.com look under gear chart.

you could also go and find an ho thermostat housing, they had a temp sender hole in them.

newer better trans would be the nv 3500 series. Used in the last years of the XJ

temp guage sender is in the back of the head, drivers side. I think it's 3/8 npt threaded.

get a gauge cluster from the junkyard that has the full package. That's the easiest way. If you go aftermarket then you'll tap into the signal wire that comes from the ICM.

well then, that's awesome.

so the jeepspeed 3 rules on the website are incorrect?

have the rubber lines been replaced? they like to rot, and then they swell with the pressure, rather than transfering the pressure to the brakes.

there's a few differences. I'd take the old ones to the parts store. THe biggest difference is in how tall the "top hate" portion of the rotor is, to accomodate the bearing. It really matters what style and how tall the cap on your unit bearig is. My d30 has 97 bearings and rotors, but 90 knuckles, so it get's 90 calipers and pads. Try explaining that one to a parts store monkey