Eagle

In fact, a Cherokee kit won't work for a Comanche. When I removed the 4" lift from my '88 MJ Chief, I had a good set of XJ shocks I wanted to use. The fronts. of course, went right in. For the rear, I foolishly assumed that I could just remove the bar pins from the XJ shocks and bolt them into the MJ. So I removed the bar pins -- only to find that when fully extended the rear shocks were a half inch too short to go into the MJ. So I then had a perfectly good pair of shocks that didn't fit an MJ, and which could no longer be used in an XJ because I had removed the bar pins. Not ... smart. Shock travel was immaterial, since they wouldn't even go into the vehicle.

What engine, transmission, and transfer case are in your Grand Cherokee? (There is no such thing as a 1999 Grand Wagoneer.)

WOW! Well, he didn't portray us as a bunch of mouth-breathing neckbeards, but he sure comes across as an avid cheerleader for Fiat. I sent him a lengthy e-mail explaining why I think the new "Gladiator" is a mistake, and something that no true Jeeper would want anything to do with. He managed to make it sound like I think the new "Gladiator" is the greatest thing since sliced bread. He used something I said about the Comanche and made it seem that I said that about the 'Gladiator." This article is basically just an advertisement for the "Gladiator." https://www.bloomberg.com/news/articles/2019-03-25/jeep-s-new-gladiator-wants-to-conquer-the-pickup-truck-market A guy I once worked for used to say, "Everything you see in print is true ... unless you have first-hand knowledge of the facts." Quod erat demonstandum.

You're looking at the wrong specification. You need to measure the distance from your lower shock mount to the upper shock mount, then choose a shock that will put that dimension approximately at the mid-point of the shock's travel.

How's the residue on the upper side of the head?

Nope.

Plug the oil gallery return holes with pieces of rag, and clean out as much gunk as you can manually. Then spray liberally with carb cleaner or brake cleaner and sop up as much of the remaining gunk as you can with soft rags. THEN remove the plugs, replace the valve cover, and run it with a can of Seafoam. IMHO you don't want to just start running Seafoam. Think about it -- the Seafoam will dissolve or dislodge a bunch of ugly stuff. Where's that stuff going to go?

The only way it was resolved "in my favor" was that they didn't total my baby. I was nonetheless automatically considered to have been at fault because I rear ended the other vehicle, and I had no way of proving that she cut me off. So my insurance paid to repair my Cherokee and the other driver's car. That meant that my premiums went up, and will remain elevated for two more years.

Okay, with respect to phone apps: There are a metric boatload of free speedometer apps for Android. Enough to thoroughly confuse an old dinosaur like me. From the descriptions, many of them will record the highest speed for a trip, but that's not much help. Suppose in one trip I have a leg on a highway with a 65 MPH speed limit and I drive that leg at 65. After leaving the highway, I travel on a 2-lane state road with a 40 MPH speed limit and a cop pulls me over and claims I was going 52 MPH. I know I wasn't going more than 42 MPH. I need an app that will keep a log of speed vs. time -- not elapsed time, but clock time. Does anyone know of any Android apps that will do this? Has anyone played with this app: https://appcrawlr.com/android/speedview-gps-speedometer Or this one: https://appcrawlr.com/android/aa-gps-hud-speedometer-plus#authors-description

An OBD-2 recorder could be helpful, but the advantage of a dash cam with speed recording is that if a cop pulls you over, you can play it back for him/her on the spot and possibly avoid a ticket rather than having to go to court and attempt to have the ticket thrown out. I'll have to look into phone apps. I have a "burner" cell phone I bought just to experiment with apps. If there is something that will do the job, I can finally put my "burner" phone to good use.

I'm looking for a dash cam. Two years ago I was in an accident with my 2000 Cherokee, and it would have been very helpful to me if I had a dash cam, because it would have shown that the woman whose SUV I rear-ended had just cut in front of me and then slammed on her brakes. So, in the best tradition of locking the barn door after the horse has been stolen, I want a dash cam ... but I don't have a lot of discretionary money to throw at it. I tried one from Amazon, and it was so bad I gave it away. But in researching again after that experience, I realized that I really want one that includes my velocity in the readout ... and not many models have that feature. I stopped at a Best Buy on my way home from an appointment at the VA hospital today. They only had one dash came with a speed display -- a Garmin unit that sells for $149.95. That's more than I was hoping to spend. Does anyone know of any other options?

^^^ Agreed.

The part that's bent in your photo is the front end of the right front body sill (as the parts manual calls it), what we sometimes refer to as the "frame ear." It's a hollow, sheet metal box section with a closed front end, which is why yours collapsed when it was hit. It's part number 3 in the exploded parts diagrem:

Bolt a piece of angle iron to it, hook a chain to the angle iron, heat it up and pull it out. The actual bumper bracket is a bolt-on part:

If you remove the distribution block, you eliminate the brake system failure warning light. You can argue that you don't need it, and I wouldn't disagree -- but technically your vehicle isn't legal to operate on the highway without it. Why not use the distribution block from the WJ -- or an XJ or ZJ distribution block? [Edit] Correction -- I see that Wilwood unit has a warning light connection. The ones I'm familiar with don't.

Once it's painted all one color, it'll just look like a Wrangler hood with a power blister. It still doesn't compare with that sheik's monstrosity. https://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-6760511/Abu-Dhabi-Sheikh-builds-incredible-ten-wheeled-vehicle-military-truck-Jeep.html

Soft peddle usually means air in the system ... somewhere. If you're certain you got all the air out, then the next things to look at are the booster and the master cylinder.

1. Have you manually adjusted the rear brake shoes to minimize the amount of piston travel in the wheel cylinders before the rear brakes engage? 2. Did you follow the full procedure for bleeding the emergency circuit in the MJ brake system?

It's very difficult to comment without knowing the location and the price. 128,000 miles is nothing for the 4.0L engine, assuming even half-decent maintenance. The biggest concern is rust underneath -- floors, rockers, and unibody "frame" rails.