Eagle

Actually, for 31.10.50s the stock steel rims would be a far better choice than the alloy rims. With stock backspacing, the tires will fit up inside the fenders when the suspension compresses. With the alloys that have less backspacing, the tires won't stuff, they'll hit the flares when the suspension compresses. To get around that, you'll have to extend the bump stops considerably, which limits your suspension travel. That's not a major issue on pavement, but it sort of defeats some of the purpose of lifting if you go off-road.

I have a factory-built hitch/bumper that's only rated for 3,500 pounds. On another MJ I have a Putnam Class 3 hitch that's rated for 5,000 pounds, and it tucks up pretty well behind a fey aftermarket replacement bumper. Putting a ball on a standard step bumper is a very light-duty solution. My vote goes to the dedicated hitch.

Yes, they came from the factory with big, rectangular off-road lights. The switch goes in the switch panel to the left of the steering column and is the same type switch the factory used with fog lights. I'd have to check to see where the relay was mounted, but unless you're looking for restoration accuracy that's not an issue. They used a relay -- mount it where it works for you.

I ran 31x10.50s on stock 7" steel rims, and I can still see the marks where tyey rubbed the insides of the rear wheel wells. A 10.5" tire on the stock rims is also VERY close to the leaf springs, so if you convert to an 8.8 you WILL need to use spacers. Whether you use them equally on each side or put it all on one side is up to you, but there's no way in the workd you can run those tires on stock rims with an axle narrower than the stock MJ rear axle. As to the AAL, unless you feel you must get lift and want to use the extra MJ main leaves for that reason, I think using XJ main leaves as AALs is a better solution. You'll gain additional capacity with minimal lift. I'll know just how much in the near future, because I plan to do it on an '89 MJ as soon as my leg injury heals (I dropped an axle on it).

MOST of the 4-cyl XJs and MJs were 4.10s, but in the early years (encompassing most of the MJ run) that wasn't as consistent as during the last years of the XJ, when ALL 4-cylinders were 4.10 regardless of transmission, options, or any other considerations. A 4-cyl MJ could also be 4.56, 3.73, 3.54 or even 3.31. You really need to verify. It isn't safe to assume.

That's a really nice fix-up, but are you sure that's a tailgate protector and not a side rail protector?

i wonder what would happen if i hooked mine up to a pressure washer?? :eek: hehe That's the right idea. I have had three Cherokees professionally rust-proofed (by people I know and trust, not just any fly-by-night operation or dealership add-on), and even with a new vehicle the prep was a pressure washing. When I go back for an annual inspection & respray, it's the same drill -- pressure wash, air dry, inspect, spray.

Yes, it'll work. Both engines shipped with the same trannies from the factory. The original bell housing should bolt right up.

I don't have a clue about the low fuel warning. The problem is probably in the sending unit, which is in the tank. Sounds like the previous owner "solved" the problem by removing the bulb and socket. The speedo problem is probably a dry cable. With the gauge cluster out, you should be able to pull the cable up out of the sleeve and lube it with something. If you have a can of LubriPlate, that's what I would suggest. Since you probably don't have LubriPlate, just use white spray grease from the parts house.

You can swap the entire automatic with transfer case, but you can't use the '92 flex plate. The ring gear that triggers the CPS has a different tooth spacing and pattern for the Chrysler system than what was used in the Renix (87 - 90) system. Find a Crown dealer and you should be able to get a new flex plate for around $60. Heck, if I were doing the swap I'd want a new flex plate just for insurance.

The MJ you are talking about is the '90 Eliminator, right? All Eliminators were sold with bucket seats and long consoles. I believe '90 was the first year, and in the first year the Eliminators were all 2WD so if you have a '90 with 4WD, it was probably converted. VIN Decoder The third digit indicates the vehicle type. C="MUlti Purpose Vehicle" (XJ). T=MJ 4th digit indicates engine type: H=2.5L TBI, I'm finding conflicting codes for the 4.0L 5th digit is transmission/transfer case: L=5-speed w/ 231 x-fer case; W=5-speed 2WD; B=auto, floor shift w/231; E=auto, column shift w/231 6th and 7th digits are body type. I need to research the MJ codes, what I have here at the moment is an XJ FSM. Extrapolating from some vehicle titles I have here, it looks like 36=LWB/2WD; 66=LWB/2WD; 63=SWB/4WD; 64=SWB/2WD (info not perfect -- needs work) 8th digit is trim package: 2=Pioneer, 3=Chief, 4=Laredo, L=Pioneer 2WD, M=Laredo 2WD. Don't have a code for Eliminator 10th digit is MODEL year of manufacture: G=1986; H=1987; J=1988; K=1989

Or "destructive" :nanner: It all depends on your point of view.

I was about to test out the awesome power Pete has delegated to me as a moderator and see if I can sticky this link -- but then I looked at it. Folks, that factory specs page is SOOOOO full of misinformation, if you bookmarked it I sincerely recommend that you remove the bookmark from your browser. Rough guess -- I'd say at least 50% of the specifics are incorrect.

The 'L' word vehicle is not a Jeep. It's a DaimlerChrysler grocery getter SUV wannabe masquerading behind a Jeep name plate. It's more of a Dodge car than a Jeep vehicle. Doesn't even have a Jeep engine in it. (Of course, the next generation Wranglers won't have Jeep engines, either. But they will have solid axles, at least)

Those mounts are expensive. Shim it. You don't need much clearance. Take out the bolts, insert one or two flat washers at each bolt location, and button it up again.

When I first bought the '87 MJ I was getting a severe CLUNK from right under my feet at various times. I replaced the drivers' side lower control arm and the noise disappeared. Now I'm getting the same noise in the '88 XJ but it's hardly a surprise -- I still have the original control arms after 18 years and 254,000+ miles. I don't think they owe me anything.

I think he was hoping it would be a weld-free way to do a SOA conversion. Unfortunately ... it isn't.

4.0L uses a donut gasket.

How about a TrueTrac in both ends?

Okay, here are the official measurements: MJ: Length at bottom of opening = 34" Height from "baseline" to top of opening = 14-3/4" XJ: Length at bottom of opening = 32-1/2" Height from "baseline" to top of opening = 12-3/4" XJ measurements were checked on both my '88 4-door and on a 2-door quarter panel that I WAS planning to use on the '88 MJ until I found that it's too small. That's how I knew -- I've been there and done that. Even the ends aren't the same. On the MJ flares, the screw hole on the bottom is the same on both ands, basically in the center of the flare "foot." On the XJ, the rear screw location is similar to the MJ, but the forward screw is located all the way at the front end of the flare "foot." Sorry, guys, but they are not the same.

Correction -- the BA 10/5 tranny only went from 87 thru mid-89. The 89 LWB I bought last year has an AX-15 in it and it seems pretty clearly to be original.

You can run 31x10.50s on the stock rims. They'll tuck inside the flares when the suspension compresses. The only rubbing you'll get is the inside shoulder of the tires will rub the lower control arm when you turn the steering wheel to full lock. That's not a biggie -- you either learn where to stop turning (as I did), or you shim the steering stop in the knuckles with a flat washer or two so you can't turn far enough to rub.

Front, or rear? I said the fronts are the same. The rears are NOT the same. The MJ openings are something like 2" wider and 2" higher than an XJ. Don't make me break out the camera and tape measure ... I've been all through this. I have a pair of 2-door XJ quarters, with flares, that I was considering using to repair what a previous owner did to my MJ. I'm certain the MJ flares are larger.

FIX IT! Immediately. Your father is right. The factory didn't spend the money to put that on just for ballast. Even at stock height an XJ or MJ with no front sway bar WILL roll over if you have to make an emergency maneuver at (or even below) highway speeds. With a lifted vehicle driving without a front sway bar is suicidal.

I voted no, but you didn't really provide enough information. You need to know what the backspacing will be in the aftermarket rims, and you need to tell us if you have extended your bump stops. Your question actually can't be answered accurately based on no parameters, so No is the safe default.