Eagle

Maybe contact Mr. I Make A New One and see what he can do for you. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UVkbYlQfNqE

Connecticut. According to the CDC map we currently have 6 to 10 confirmed cases. The NBC News map shows 11. Earlier this week things were normal in the supermarkets. Today was a totally different story. NO toilet paper, NO bottled water, very little paper towels or facial tissue. NO antibacterial cleaning supplies. The bread aisle had been picked pretty much clean, and frozen hamburgers were mostly gone. Ditto frozen veggies. The state government has closed the capitol building. Public hearings that were scheduled for this week have been postponed indefinitely. I hold a license from the state that requires in-service training. I was able to attend a class on Wednesday evening but classes for the next two weeks have been postponed indefinitely, and they'll re-evaluate additional postponements/cancellations when we get near the end of this two-week period. A friend is an IT manager for a big hospital. The hospital has told all personnel who aren't directly, physically required to be on site to stay home and to work from home. My friend said they're looking at activating 7,000 additional people on their internal network. The IT office is in an office building miles from the actual hospital, but the IT team is staying home and telecommuting anyway. I was supposed to attend the funeral for the father of a friend on Friday. The funeral was in New York state -- right in the heart of one of New York's clusters of confirmed cases. Considering that I'm 76 years old, have a history of pneumonia, and a year ago I was hospitalized with a collapsed lung as a result of the flu, I had to call my friend and explain that I just didn't feel safe going to the funeral. He said he understood -- I hope he does. I felt terrible about not going but I didn't think it was worth the risk. Most schools in the county (and probably around the state, but I don't know that) closed as of Friday -- some for two weeks, most indefinitely. The State school board has adjusted their minimum school days requirement to call for a minimum of 180 days IF it can be accomplished before the end of June, otherwise the 180 days will be waived for this year. Maps (updated regularly): https://www.cdc.gov/coronavirus/2019-ncov/cases-in-us.html https://www.nbcnews.com/health/health-news/coronavirus-u-s-map-where-virus-has-been-confirmed-across-n1124546

That basically suggests that it's probably for a block bored .020" over stock. A stroker built with no overbore would work out to 4.54 liters. At .020: overbore it's 4.58 liters, .040" overbore is 4.63 liters, and .060" overbore is 4.68 liters. But a .040" overbore also rounds to 4.6L ... and that doesn't tell you if it's using the 4.2 rods or the beefier 4.0L rods with special pistons.

Here's a 25-foot coil that includes fittings and 8 feet of gravel guard: https://www.amazon.com/Copper-Nickel-Tubing-Armor-Fittings/dp/B015VCZN80/ref=pd_sbs_263_6/144-6295306-0210151?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B015VCZN80&pd_rd_r=db8842e7-801e-4b1e-a1b8-b6a3b1bea602&pd_rd_w=pvl0c&pd_rd_wg=c7EM5&pf_rd_p=7cd8f929-4345-4bf2-a554-7d7588b3dd5f&pf_rd_r=YY42BZ51WM3H9KJZJEWG&psc=1&refRID=YY42BZ51WM3H9KJZJEWG

No? Oops -- my bad.

Considering that nothing appears to be broken, bent, or out of place, I would really like an explanation of exactly what's wrong or broken, other than "It's thrashed." Different master cylinders have different throw lengths. My guess is that they didn't get the correct master cylinder ... or they didn't install it correctly. Not being able to get it in gear could be as simple as needing to bleed it. Hydraulic clutches can be a bear to bleed properly.

I've never heard it called NiCop. Around here everyone calls it CuNiFer (Cu is copper, Ni is nickel, and Fer is iron) To do a really pro job with either the cunifer or with auto parts mart steel lines when you buy the 25-foot coils, spend a few bucks to buy a tubing straightener as well as a good bender and a good flaring tool. The cunifer is softer than steel lines and you can do an "okay" job just bending it by hand, but for making the job look professional the straight runs should be ... well ... straight. https://www.amazon.com/s?k=brake+line+tubing+straightener&ref=nb_sb_noss_1

Doesn't the Chinese Cherokee have third row seating? I know they raised the back part of the roof for some reason ...

Neither of the above statements is an absolute truism. Much depends on how the engine will be used. People build strokers to get more "power," but the reality is that the 4.0L engine was always more of a torque engine than a high-RPM horsepower engine. A general rule is that engines with a stroke that's longer than the bore are better for low-RPM torque, while engines whose bore is greater than the stroke (so-called "over-square" engines) are more suited to revving faster and producing high-end horsepower at the expense of low-end torque. The 4.0L is basically just slightly an "over-squared" engine. The stock bore is 3.88" and the stock stroke is 3.41". Even so, with the cam grind and timing selected by the factory, it builds torque quickly at low RPM and it runs out of steam above 4,000 or 4,500 RPM. The 4.2L engine, which is where the strokers get their crankshafts, were true long-stroke engines. The bore was 3.75" and the stroke was 3.90". My family owned a few of them over the years. They were good engines, but they were not high-revving engines. Put the 4.2L crank in a 4.0L engine with a .020 overbore and you get a bore of 3.90" and a stroke of 3.90". So it doesn't get into "over-squared" territory -- it's a balanced square. It makes for a good combination of torque and horsepower, but whether or not you "need" a bigger throttle body and/or a bigger exhaust depends completely on how it will be driven. A 4.0L engine displaces 244 cubic inches and theoretically flows 353 CFM at 5,000 RPM. A 4.6L stroker displaces 281 cubic inches and flows theoretically 407 CFM at 5,000 RPM. That's not a lot of CFM ... and how much of the time is anyone going to be driving any Jeep at 5,000 RPM? I know -- from my own first-hand experience -- that increasing the exhaust behind a stock 4.0L from 2-1/4" to 2-1/2" reduces low-end torque and drops the gas mileage about 2 to 3 MPG. The increase in flow with a stroker is only 15%. That's the equivalent of accelerating from 3,000 RPM to 3,450 RPM. Does that really need a bigger exhaust and a bigger throttle body?

I don't see anything broken in that photo. I think the problem is your mechanic.

Why did you need Paint for that? AMC/Jeep built those with four doors -- I owned a ;78 for years. In many ways I wish I hadn't sold it.

Yes, the D44 and the 8.25 are both about an inch longer than the D35. If yoou're at stock height, you should cut the drive shaft for either. If you have a significant lift, you might not need a shorter drive shaft. If you have the choice, I would prefer the dana 44. If you don't have access to a dana 44, the 97 and newer 8.25 is a decent upgrade from the D35.

Looks like a choice of mild steel or stainless. That's why I use the tubing bender. Many years ago I bought a set of the cheaper ones -- it has two sizes of "wheel" -- one for larger radii, the other for tighter radii. They work great with the cunifer brake line, making very clean, smooth bends.

That's the stuff I use now. It's even easier to work with than the coated steel line you buy at the chain parts houses. You can also find pre-made lengths of gravel shield on Amazon to make the lines on the rear axle look completely original. https://www.amazon.com/s?k=brake+line+gravel+guard&ref=nb_sb_noss_1 Then you just need a tubing bender. I've done some complete vehicles just using one like this: https://www.amazon.com/Performance-Tool-W704C-Tubing-Bender/dp/B0002KO2H0/ref=sr_1_15?keywords=brake+line+bender+tool&qid=1583678282&sr=8-15 For a few dollars more, you can go high tech on the bender with this: https://www.amazon.com/LORESO-Bender-Degrees-Bending-Aluminum/dp/B07S8DQBNL/ref=sr_1_11?keywords=brake+line+bender+tool&qid=1583678416&sr=8-11

I wish I had your confidence. I'm in my 70s, I've been working on cars since my teens, crewed on a friend's stock car for a number of years, and I built the engines for my own race car and a street car. For all that, after I had researched what it took to make a stroker run reliably without getting into detonation problems I decided it was more than I was willing to undertake. My pockets aren't deep enough to get it wrong and start over.

Do what? Bolt it in? Or deal with all the issues arising from the fact that the deck heights are different between the 4.2L and the 4.0L, meaning that to NOT have super high compression you have to take into account cam overlap, quench, combustion chamber volume, whether you run 4.2L rods (wimpy) or 4.0L rods with custom pistons ... yada, yada. There's a LOT that goes into making a good-running stroker. I love the concept, but I've never seriously thought about doing one because I don't have the time or the $$$$$$$$$$ t make it work.

If you buy them from Classic Tube, please let us know if they fit. The set I bought for my '87 weren't even close. I think they might have been for a Gladiator (the real Gladiator, not the new wannabe Gladiator).

I was thinking the same thing. Siphon as much gas out of the tank as you can and start fresh. Do the tires hold air?

The vibration damper weight was a Libertine thing. Not used on the Cherokee, and AFAIK not used on the Wrangler.

This link includes photos of the AX-15: http://www.jeeptech.com/trans/ax15.html Unfortunately, that site hasn't been updated to include the NVG3550. Novak has this image, though: https://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/transmissions/manual/nv3550/

Yes, but I've never heard of or seen them sold as lift kits. Both types of those inserts have been sold for years as cheap ways to "restore" sagging coil springs. I can remember seeing that &^$%* in the old J.C. Whitney catalog when I was still in high school.

:Sniff: No respect for tradition. REAL Morgans have wood frames. (Yes, they did. Well ... sort of https://www.classicdriver.com/en/article/cars/myth-busting-morgan-chassis-are-made-wood-true-or-false)

No, you can't. I've covered this before. The ignition is a 6-bit (6 tumblers) key. The door key is a 5-bit key. I discussed this at some length with a professional locksmith and he told me that, because of the different number of tumblers in the same length keyway, it can't be made to work.

Nope. I bought my '88 XJ new. Two keys.

He's re-using the existing ring and pinion gears. He needs to match the existing contact pattern as closely as possible or the diff will be noisy (noisier than 8.25s are anyway).